Hampi – The Epochal Love Story

From a distance it seems pebbles have been strewn around carelessly forming mounds. Coming closer, the huge loose granite boulders begin to take shape. Stretched among these precariously balanced boulders piled high, paddy fields glow in the morning sun. Coconut palms sway to the music of the breeze. The sparkling Tungabhadra River flows serenely. High up, a lone mantapa perched on the side of the hill standing guard for centuries watches this scene dispassionately. This is the hauntingly enchanting landscape of UNESCO World Heritage Site Hampi in Karnataka that witnessed the rise and downfall of one of the greatest Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagara.

The Classic Hampi Landscape - you could look at it for the rest of your life - boulders, palms, Tungabhadra and the ruins

The love story that started few years ago has grown stronger over several visits. It was love at first sight with the austere and grandiose Hampi and now every visit is a joyous homecoming. The ochre boulders, the green banana plantations and the grey ruins seem to hold you into a lulling embrace filling your entire being with surging bliss. You want to see, feel and experience more of Hampi.

The Bazaar area of Krishna Temple - One of the four temple complexes in Hampi and as with every temple complex there is a huge Pushkarni

This is Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom where several episodes of Ramayana were played out. Ram & Lakshman had arrived here looking for the abducted Sita when they met Sugriv and his chief minister Hanuman. Upon Hanuman’s request, Ram kills the usurper brother Vali restoring the kingdom to Sugriv whose help was needed to find Sita. Across Tungabhadra, overlooking the Pampa Sarovar where Ram bathed, Sabari fed berries to Ram. The stories don’t end here. The Pampa Sarovar or Lotus Pond is named after Brahma’s daughter Pampa who performed penances on Hemakuta Hill attracting attention of Shiva. Shiva seated in meditation after destroying Kama, god of love, finally relented and married Pampa and she became identified as his consort Parvati. The God and Goddess are worshipped in Virupaksha Temple; Hampi or Pampakshetra’s oldest temple. Locally, Shiva is known as Virupaksha.

The King's Balance - the kings supposedly got themselves weighed in gold and silver and then donated it to the public - on the walking trail along the Tungabhadra from Virupaksha Temple to Vitthal Temple

In 1336, two brothers Harihara and Bukka, who probably ruled over the tiny principality of Anegundi, crossed over the Tungabhadra to establish the capital city of Vijaynagara – City of Victory - which grew into the formidable Vijaynagara Empire. Over a period of 200 years, the kingdom would become fabulously rich, powerful and the largest in South India. Vijaynagara became an important trading centre. Chroniclers from Persia, Italy and Portugal who visited during this period were dazzled by the unrivalled imperial splendour, the likes of which they had not seen before.

Last time the serene Tungabhadra raged during the monsoons and you wimped out and refused to climb the boat. This time you jump across the boulders to discover the Bohemian piece of Hampi with shacks and budget hotels catering to backpackers

The magnificence of Hampi is best appreciated by walking. Virupakhsa Temple, patronized by the founders and around which the city grew is the logical place to start. Hemakuta Hill with its smattering of temples and mantapas lies to the south offering atmospheric views of the temple and its towering gopuras. The sprawling temple complex has a 100-columned hall and coronation mandap decorated with fantastic yalis and makaras. The ceiling has brilliant paintings depicting mythological scenes and royal life. The living temple sees the most visitors and devotees thronging the mandaps and sanctum. Don’t miss Laxmi, the petite elephant blessing the visitors. Emerge out from the north gateway to the Manmatha pushkarni. Just beyond the Tungabhadra flows.

Hampi's skies are always atmospheric and here they seem to be in a mixed mood - Manmantha Pushkarni at the living Virupaksha Temple

Come back to Hampi Bazaar where a long colonnaded bazaar stretches in front of Virupaksha Temple, one of the four street bazaars, a feature common to all the temples in the sacred centre. At the far end, a colossal Nandi is seated in a mandap with the backdrop of Matanga Hill.

You can keep going to Hampi forever for this sight. Ride the circular boats made of reed and bamboo. Just like the inhabitants of Vijaynagar did hundreds of years ago. In the distance is the Anjanadri Hill in Anegundi where Hanuman was born

If you want to go back into time, turn left from Hampi Bazaar and walk along Tungabhadra with perhaps the most remarkable setting. Time seems to have stopped here. Devotees dressed like they did 700 years ago rest on the rocks at Chakratirtha, the holiest bathing spot, after paying obeisance at the Kodandrama Temple. Circular boats made of reed and bamboo called coracles rest on the riverbank like they have done through the ages. Sit with the devotees as you watch the tranquil waters flow through a gorge towards Anjanadri Hill, where Hanuman was born. Hampi is a window where you can watch mythology, lost glory of Vijaynagar and the present in the same frame.

The lofty gopurums of the temples in Hampi are built of bricks with stucco bas relief ornamentation. Exposure to elements have damaged the gopurams. Conservation efforts are underway at Krishna Temple 

Continue walking along the river, as you pass the Courtesan’s Street, another bazaar that leads to the third temple complex Achyutaraya Temple, until you reach a double storeyed pavilion like gateway with the King’s Balance next to it where the kings were weighed against gold and gems. This brings you to the most ornate temple complex called Vitthal Temple. Here the iconic Garuda shrine in the form of wheeled chariot pulled by horses stands splendidly under blue skies.  

Hampi - Every visit to Hampi reveals more surprises. Here you meet the most enchanting and the prettiest woman in whole of Vijaynagar - what flair what verve and what a hairstyle - You are in love!

But then all good things come to an end. The Deccan Sultanates to the North form a coalition. Vijaynagar army is routed in the Battle of Talikota in 1565. For next six months, the beautiful city is ravaged and pillaged. The ruined town is soon abandoned. The lively streets and bazaars that saw merchants from across the world trade gold, gems, ivory, brocade, silk and horses were soon overgrown and forgotten.

You love the blue skies over Hampi. They add that extra dimension to the ruins and the landscape. Here, last time you were treated to a beautiful sunset; this time ruins and wrestling sculptures

The Royal Enclosure bore the brunt of the pillage that followed the doomed battle. Nothing survives except the beautiful unearthed pushkarni with elevated stone aqueducts and the massive three-tiered Mahanavami Dibba platform. During the nine days of Navaratri, the king sat on a gem studded throne on top witnessing the grand celebrations with dazzling display of wealth and power.  Foreign chroniclers have left glowing accounts of the extravagant pomp and splendour.

The Zenana Enclosure is relatively damaged and houses the prettiest structures - The Lotus Mahal incorporating distinct Islamic architecture is one of Hampi's most recognisable monument

Hampi - The Elephant Stables

The high fortification walls bring you to Zenana Enclosure. Inside, the Lotus Mahal and the elephant stables with pointed arches, vaults and domes built in distinct Islamic architecture are apparently inspired by the contemporary neighbouring Bahmani Kingdom. In fact, there is an entire Islamic Quarter near the Malyavanta Hill which points to cosmopolitan spirit of Vijayanagara.

The higher you climb the Matanga Hill, the more spectacular Hampi turns - Here is the bird's eye view of the massive Achyutaraya Temple

After a full day of exploring on foot, there is one last promise to keep. You are back at the entrance of Achyutaraya Temple. Unfrequented by the tourists, it is all quiet here. On the right rises the craggy Matanga Hill. The rounded boulders have inexplicably arranged themselves to form the highest peak in Hampi. You have promised yourself that this time you will climb to the top for the breath-taking sunset views. A passing shower has made the steep climb on the broken steps built during Vijayanagara times treacherous. With every step the views turn stunning. 

For the first time you get bird’s eye view of the most surreal landscape in the country - the same pebble like boulders, the patches of green and to the north the sliver of Tungabhadra. The Virupaksha Temple radiates golden aura under the setting sun. The prayers from the temple wafts up along with the cool breeze. The sky changes colour every minute. You want to savour every moment. This is your Promised Land.

The views were worth waiting for five years - On top of Matanga Hill and looking towards Virupaksha Temple

You just realise that not a day goes by when you don’t miss Hampi. It seems you have known each other for ages. The next time you will come for a longer visit. You want to spend more time with her. You feel her anguish. We will both sit holding hands looking into each other’s eyes. And then we will let the tears flow. We will cry together – at our ruins, at our fate and our lost glory.

Must Do Things in and around Hampi

Ride a coracle on Tungabhadra river

Watch the sun go down over Hampi from top of Matanga Hill

Walk along Tungabhadra river from Hampi Bazaar to Vitthal Temple

Enjoy a slice of bohemian Hampi across the river from Virupaksha Temple

Marvel at never seen before pre-historic art at Onake Kindi near Chikkarampur Village

Enjoy some fish angling at the sublime Sanapur Lake

Discover the quiet Anegundi Village where the story of Vijaynagara began

A Version of this story appeared in the March-April issue of Inflight Magazine Trujetter

https://trujetter.com/hampi-the-epochal-love-story/

The spread is delicious enough to eat

Related Stories on this Blog

Mahanavamiin Hampi

Prehistoric Art of Onake Kindi

Sanapur Lake

Anegundi - Journey into Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom

Some more Hampi Magic

Anegundi – Journey into Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom

There are two ways of getting to Anegundi. One is by motorized boat that takes you from Hampi end of Tungabhadra just beyond the Vijaynagar toll gate of Talarighatta to the northern bank at Talvar Gatta in Anegundi. If you are more adventurous, then a white knuckle ride on floating contraptions called coracles will supply you with the right dose of adrenaline. They say while elsewhere humans have moved from wooden boats to steamers and to cruise ships, the coracles here have steadfastly refused to evolve. They still look the way they did when Bukka and Harihar took a ride shifting their capital from Anegundi to Hampi – circular and made of cane; while in the past they were covered with leather, now they are covered by plastic sheet. Portuguese traveler Dominoes Paes who visited Vijaynagara in 16^th century would be glad to see the same vintage coracles that he hitched ride on about 600 years ago.

Window to Anegundi - View from Talarighat

Looking North towards Anegundi

On the Way to Anegundi over Tungabhadra

To kill Paes’s nostalgia buzz, some people in the government had the brainwave to construct a bridge over the river to connect Hampi with Anegundi. The bridge collapsed in 2009 killing several construction workers. The work thankfully seems to be suspended. You would hate the sight of the bridge threatening the 'visual integrity' of the UNESCO site and trucks barreling down ending the innocence of an incredible place with the unbeatable combination of built heritage in the awesome natural setting of lush fields, granite boulders and the mighty Tungabhadra.

On our way to Anegundi

Balancing the Rocks

There is another way to get to Anegundi for wimps like you whose legs start shaking the moment they see water below their feet. Anegundi is a pleasant drive of about 15 kms from Gangavathi taluk centre. The scene is to die for - lush green paddy fields, swaying coconut trees, and the backdrop of loose granite boulders piled high glowing in the afternoon sun interspersed with occasional sights of lonely mantapas, a Hampi signature structure. Some mantapas sit by road, some sit high on the boulders. 

Kade Bagilu - 'Last Gate' of Anegundi

More Fortifications as we move towards Anegundi Village

Lonely Mantapas on the way to Anegundi

Kallagasi - Literally meaning 'Stone'

Anegundi’s arrival is announced as the road punches through successive fortifications of wall. These rings of walls go over the boulders and hills to provide protection to Anegundi transforming it into a citadel that includes a fort high up there. More lonely mantapas that could have served as check posts still stand guard by the road. 

Anegundi Ahoy!

The Main Gate of Anegundi - Modalane Bagilu or First Gate

The road leads into the village with the main gate looming ahead. Before entering Anegundi you want to see few attractions around the village.

The First View of Tungabhadra - Way to the Jetty

The Anegundi Citadel Walls

Tungabhadra Crossing in Anegundi

The Nandi Sees Everything

You bypass the village and come down south to the northern banks of Tungabhadra at Talvar Gatta. A track leads down to the jetty where people take the boat to Hampi. Since the river is full, the coracles take nap on the rocks. You are already thinking – maybe you can start an app based coracle ferry service over the Tungabhadra. The fortification walls of the old capital come down from the boulders to your right and the left. The walls look the same that you have encountered across Hampi – blocks of granite stacked high with no discernible mortar used. A herder nonchalantly walks down the wall. A bike rider awaits his turn as the boat comes in from Hampi side disgorging its load of passengers and motor bikes. Nandi in a small mantapa benignly looks over this view. You can’t see the associated Shiv temple. The Nandi definitely came just for the view. 

Talvar Ghatta which means Sword Hill - was one of the main gates for entry into Anegundi

Talvar Gatta - View from South Side with the interesting first floor

The Temple next to Talvar Ghatta

On your left is a two storied structure called Talvar Gatta or the Sword Gate. This was one of the main gates into Anegundi and probably served as an entry gate, check post and tax collection point. Guards were probably housed on the first floor.  Looking from the south side, the structure on the first floor has interesting arches and + shaped slits. Just beyond is a small temple submerged in water. You can see some deities inside.

On Tungabhadra - Looking Towards Hampi

Pristine Tungabhadra in Anegundi

You step into the boat to admire the setting. A setting you can never get tired of – Tungabhadra river, golden granite boulders and cool breeze. Yes the Nandi in the mantap came to admire the view too. This right here is the microcosm of this almost forgotten, laid back Anegundi. Except for the boat with Yamaha outboard motor and the vestiges of the collapsed bridge left hanging in the air, you might as well have stepped back into the 15^thcentury. You have fallen in love with Hampi and Anegundi. Back home, reminiscing about Hampi is your favourite past time. You go through your collection of Hampi photos, books and maps reliving the moments. You can spend a part of your life in this utopian setting.

Anegundi is a small village in Gangavathi taluk of Koppal district in Karnataka. Belying its size, Anegundi straddles a long history from pre-historic era to Ashok and to Vijaynagar. Human habitation here is known to have existed for at least 3000 years. Around Anegundi there are several prehistoric rock shelters, some with cave paintings. One such site is perched high on a hill and the other is a group of caves called Onake Kindi (both subjects for future posts). Outside the village of Hirebenekal, about 12 kms to the west of Anegondi, there is a megalithic burial site called Mourya Mane (on wishlist). And then there is the Anegundi Fort, assorted temples and the ultimate surprise called Sublime Sanapur! Two Ashokan edicts have been found in Koppal which shows Anegundi was part of Ashok’s kingdom in 3^rd century BC. Later, Satavahanas, Kadambas, Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas, Delhi Sultanate, Vijaynagar and Bahmanis claimed Anegundi. Local line of rajas claiming descent from the Vijaynagar emperors still lives in Anegundi.

As narrated in Ramayana, Anegundi is the site of mythical Kishkindha where the drama between Vaali the king of Kishkindha or Kingdom of Vaanars and his brother Sugreev was played out. Hanuman was Sugreev’s Chief Minister. In the aftermath of Sita’s abduction by Raavan, Ram and Lakshman find themselves in the area around Anegundi. When Ram and Lakshman cut off the arms of an ugly monster called Kabandha, the barrel shaped monster was freed from his curse of Indra and before ascending to the celestial word, he advised Ram to go to the beautiful banks of Pampa and look for Sugreev who lived on Rishyamooka Hill. By gaining friendship of Sugreev, who has been driven out of the kingdom by Vaali, Ram can succeed in bringing Sita back.

Pampa Sarovar in Anegundi - Rishyamooka Hill in the background

Little beyond Anegundi on the road towards Hospet, on the left, you come to a water tank or Pushkarni known as Pampa Sarovar. The sarovar takes its name from Pampa, the name of local goddess consort of Virupaksha or Shiv. It is believed Pampa Sarovar is one of the five holy sarovars created by Brahm where Shiv and Parvati are worshipped. The other four are Mansarovar in Tibet, Bindu Sarovar and Narayan Sarovar in Gujarat and Pushkar in Rajasthan. This is the second time you are here. Last time the tank was empty and being desilted. This time around the tank is filled to the brim. The monsoons have been bountiful this year. Ram and Lakshman are believed to have bathed here.

Beautiful Anegundi

Here in the lovely region of Pampa, Ram and Lakshman visit the ashram of aged sanyasini, Sabari, a woman of forest tribe, who was the disciple of Rishi Matanga. When saint Matanga departed, Sabari too wanted to die, but the Rishi advised her to wait here for the darshan of Ram, an incarnation of Vishnu.

Lakshmi Temple overlooking Pampa Sarovar

Way to Shabari Ashram, at Pampa Sarovar

On the banks of Pampa, one of the most popular Ramayan episode was played out. Sabari feeds bers or wild berries to Ram after tasting the berries to ensure they were sweet. Ram remarks that he had never eaten such sweet berries. The princes were shown around the Matanga ashram. Then taking their leave, Sabari kindled a fire and entered heaven to reunite with her guru.

Map Showing Lord Ram's Footprint during the exile years

Sabari Ashram with Ram's Feet at Pampa Sarovar

Overlooking the Pampa Sarovar is the Srilakshmi Temple. Next to the temple a sign indicates the way to Sabari Ashram and Ram Paduka (Feet). More than anything the ashram looks like a cave with a small platform indicating Ram’s Feet. This is the closest you have come physically toRamayan and Ram. Nasik also has several places associated with Ramayan; but there it is crowded and commercilaized. Here in Anegundi, it is intimate. As you duck into the low cave created by a cavity among boulders, it does feel surreal. You can actually see the old and withered devoted Sabari tasting and handing out sweet berries to Lord Ram. 

The Fascinating Boulders of Anegundi

The Original Inhabitants of Kishkindha

Pampa Sarovar indeed is a beautiful setting of river just beyond; rippling waters of sarovar, rising boulder hills, and monkeys all around; yes this is the place where Ram and Lakshman met Sabari and Sugreev and Hanuman. This by no imagination is a myth.

Looking up Anjanadri Hill

Anjaneya Hill

Coming back to the road, a little distance away to the west, is the Anjanadri or Anjaneya Hill. Lord Hanuman is believed to have been born here. Anjaneya Hill is the place to catch the sunset over Hampi (on your wish list). Steps built on the hill takes you to the hilltop modern Anjaneyi Temple. The steps, painted white as they curve around the boulders, are visible across Hampi. Best views of the hill are offered as you walk from Hampi Bazaar along the Tungabhadra towards Inscribed Vishnu Temple and Vitthal Temple.

Anjanadri Hill - View from Inscribed Vishnu Temple, Hampi

Now here it gets a little confusing geographically. Vaali while killing an asur had spilled blood and desecrated Matanga’s Ashram; assuming Matanga Ashram would be on Matanga Hill. The Rishi had cursed Vaali that he will die the moment he entered the precints of the ashram. Therefore Sugreev afraid of Vaali had made Matanga Hill his home. Matanga Hill is across the river Tungabhadra in Hampi while Sabari Ashram, Pampa Sarovar and Rishyamukh Hill are across Hampi in Anegundi. Maybe Sabari moved to the other side of river to Anegundi after passing away of Rishi Matanga. But then Ram and Lakshman would have met Sugreev on the Matanga Hill and not Rishyamukh Hill. Also, Sugreev’s Cave is in Hampi and not Anegundi, near Matanga Hill next to King’s Balance and Vitthal Temple.

 

Did you say this is Kishkindha Kingdom? By the road, you happen to see this relief sculpture carved on one of the boulders. Hanuman can be seen doing assorted activites including carrying the Sanjeevani Parbat on his head to heal Lakshman.

Anegundi - Bridge between Old Hampi and the Vijaynagar Empire

The Aqueduct just beyond Anegundi on the way to Hospet

 

On your way back to Hampi, you come across another Vijaynagar marvel – an aqueduct straddling a stream. Aqueduct is a bridge like structure that acts as a conduit for water to flow over a channel or low ground. This aqueduct has been named after Bukka, one of the founders of Vijaynagar Empire. You notice a portion of the structure has collapsed since your last visit. Built of solid blocks of granite, the aqueduct looks imposing, again indicating the building innovation and prowess of the founders of Vijaynagar. It was this granite that built the empire and possibly this granite that kept the invading forces from the north in check.

Bukka's Aqueduct – Anegundi

Just like the aqueduct, Anegundi is the bridge between old Hampi and the new empire of Vijaynagar. Let us appreciate the old world before we cross the bridge into the newer times.

Getting There: Anegundi is about 15 kms south east of Gangavathi taluk of Koppal district in Central Karnataka. Or take a boat or coracle ride from Hampi side just beyond Vitthal Temple.

References:

1.   Ramayana by C. Rajagopalachari

2.   Hampi Vijaynagara by John M Fritz & George Michell

3.   A Forgotten Empire (Vijaynagar) by Robert Sewell

4.   http://whc.unesco.org/en/news/487/

5.   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anegundi

A version of the story appeared in the February 2017 issue of Rail Bandhu, the on-board magazine of Indian Railways

http://railbandhu.in/anegundi-walk-history/

Related links on this blog:

Prehistoric Art near Hampi

http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2016/07/onake-kindi-gated-prehistoric-rock-art.html

Some more Prehistoric Art

http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2015/07/cavehanger-in-anegundi.html

Origin of Hampi
http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2015/07/anegundi-fort-and-origin-of-vijaynagara.html

Sanapur Surprise
http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2014/11/sublime-sunset-and-magical-moonrise.html

Pushkarnis in Hampi http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2016/06/discovering-world-of-pushkarnis-in.html

If you liked the blogpost then

Please visit Justrippingg's Facebook Page for updates

Please follow Justrippingg on Instagram