Hampi – The Epochal Love Story

From a distance it seems pebbles have been strewn around carelessly forming mounds. Coming closer, the huge loose granite boulders begin to take shape. Stretched among these precariously balanced boulders piled high, paddy fields glow in the morning sun. Coconut palms sway to the music of the breeze. The sparkling Tungabhadra River flows serenely. High up, a lone mantapa perched on the side of the hill standing guard for centuries watches this scene dispassionately. This is the hauntingly enchanting landscape of UNESCO World Heritage Site Hampi in Karnataka that witnessed the rise and downfall of one of the greatest Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagara.

The Classic Hampi Landscape - you could look at it for the rest of your life - boulders, palms, Tungabhadra and the ruins

The love story that started few years ago has grown stronger over several visits. It was love at first sight with the austere and grandiose Hampi and now every visit is a joyous homecoming. The ochre boulders, the green banana plantations and the grey ruins seem to hold you into a lulling embrace filling your entire being with surging bliss. You want to see, feel and experience more of Hampi.

The Bazaar area of Krishna Temple - One of the four temple complexes in Hampi and as with every temple complex there is a huge Pushkarni

This is Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom where several episodes of Ramayana were played out. Ram & Lakshman had arrived here looking for the abducted Sita when they met Sugriv and his chief minister Hanuman. Upon Hanuman’s request, Ram kills the usurper brother Vali restoring the kingdom to Sugriv whose help was needed to find Sita. Across Tungabhadra, overlooking the Pampa Sarovar where Ram bathed, Sabari fed berries to Ram. The stories don’t end here. The Pampa Sarovar or Lotus Pond is named after Brahma’s daughter Pampa who performed penances on Hemakuta Hill attracting attention of Shiva. Shiva seated in meditation after destroying Kama, god of love, finally relented and married Pampa and she became identified as his consort Parvati. The God and Goddess are worshipped in Virupaksha Temple; Hampi or Pampakshetra’s oldest temple. Locally, Shiva is known as Virupaksha.

The King's Balance - the kings supposedly got themselves weighed in gold and silver and then donated it to the public - on the walking trail along the Tungabhadra from Virupaksha Temple to Vitthal Temple

In 1336, two brothers Harihara and Bukka, who probably ruled over the tiny principality of Anegundi, crossed over the Tungabhadra to establish the capital city of Vijaynagara – City of Victory - which grew into the formidable Vijaynagara Empire. Over a period of 200 years, the kingdom would become fabulously rich, powerful and the largest in South India. Vijaynagara became an important trading centre. Chroniclers from Persia, Italy and Portugal who visited during this period were dazzled by the unrivalled imperial splendour, the likes of which they had not seen before.

Last time the serene Tungabhadra raged during the monsoons and you wimped out and refused to climb the boat. This time you jump across the boulders to discover the Bohemian piece of Hampi with shacks and budget hotels catering to backpackers

The magnificence of Hampi is best appreciated by walking. Virupakhsa Temple, patronized by the founders and around which the city grew is the logical place to start. Hemakuta Hill with its smattering of temples and mantapas lies to the south offering atmospheric views of the temple and its towering gopuras. The sprawling temple complex has a 100-columned hall and coronation mandap decorated with fantastic yalis and makaras. The ceiling has brilliant paintings depicting mythological scenes and royal life. The living temple sees the most visitors and devotees thronging the mandaps and sanctum. Don’t miss Laxmi, the petite elephant blessing the visitors. Emerge out from the north gateway to the Manmatha pushkarni. Just beyond the Tungabhadra flows.

Hampi's skies are always atmospheric and here they seem to be in a mixed mood - Manmantha Pushkarni at the living Virupaksha Temple

Come back to Hampi Bazaar where a long colonnaded bazaar stretches in front of Virupaksha Temple, one of the four street bazaars, a feature common to all the temples in the sacred centre. At the far end, a colossal Nandi is seated in a mandap with the backdrop of Matanga Hill.

You can keep going to Hampi forever for this sight. Ride the circular boats made of reed and bamboo. Just like the inhabitants of Vijaynagar did hundreds of years ago. In the distance is the Anjanadri Hill in Anegundi where Hanuman was born

If you want to go back into time, turn left from Hampi Bazaar and walk along Tungabhadra with perhaps the most remarkable setting. Time seems to have stopped here. Devotees dressed like they did 700 years ago rest on the rocks at Chakratirtha, the holiest bathing spot, after paying obeisance at the Kodandrama Temple. Circular boats made of reed and bamboo called coracles rest on the riverbank like they have done through the ages. Sit with the devotees as you watch the tranquil waters flow through a gorge towards Anjanadri Hill, where Hanuman was born. Hampi is a window where you can watch mythology, lost glory of Vijaynagar and the present in the same frame.

The lofty gopurums of the temples in Hampi are built of bricks with stucco bas relief ornamentation. Exposure to elements have damaged the gopurams. Conservation efforts are underway at Krishna Temple 

Continue walking along the river, as you pass the Courtesan’s Street, another bazaar that leads to the third temple complex Achyutaraya Temple, until you reach a double storeyed pavilion like gateway with the King’s Balance next to it where the kings were weighed against gold and gems. This brings you to the most ornate temple complex called Vitthal Temple. Here the iconic Garuda shrine in the form of wheeled chariot pulled by horses stands splendidly under blue skies.  

Hampi - Every visit to Hampi reveals more surprises. Here you meet the most enchanting and the prettiest woman in whole of Vijaynagar - what flair what verve and what a hairstyle - You are in love!

But then all good things come to an end. The Deccan Sultanates to the North form a coalition. Vijaynagar army is routed in the Battle of Talikota in 1565. For next six months, the beautiful city is ravaged and pillaged. The ruined town is soon abandoned. The lively streets and bazaars that saw merchants from across the world trade gold, gems, ivory, brocade, silk and horses were soon overgrown and forgotten.

You love the blue skies over Hampi. They add that extra dimension to the ruins and the landscape. Here, last time you were treated to a beautiful sunset; this time ruins and wrestling sculptures

The Royal Enclosure bore the brunt of the pillage that followed the doomed battle. Nothing survives except the beautiful unearthed pushkarni with elevated stone aqueducts and the massive three-tiered Mahanavami Dibba platform. During the nine days of Navaratri, the king sat on a gem studded throne on top witnessing the grand celebrations with dazzling display of wealth and power.  Foreign chroniclers have left glowing accounts of the extravagant pomp and splendour.

The Zenana Enclosure is relatively damaged and houses the prettiest structures - The Lotus Mahal incorporating distinct Islamic architecture is one of Hampi's most recognisable monument

Hampi - The Elephant Stables

The high fortification walls bring you to Zenana Enclosure. Inside, the Lotus Mahal and the elephant stables with pointed arches, vaults and domes built in distinct Islamic architecture are apparently inspired by the contemporary neighbouring Bahmani Kingdom. In fact, there is an entire Islamic Quarter near the Malyavanta Hill which points to cosmopolitan spirit of Vijayanagara.

The higher you climb the Matanga Hill, the more spectacular Hampi turns - Here is the bird's eye view of the massive Achyutaraya Temple

After a full day of exploring on foot, there is one last promise to keep. You are back at the entrance of Achyutaraya Temple. Unfrequented by the tourists, it is all quiet here. On the right rises the craggy Matanga Hill. The rounded boulders have inexplicably arranged themselves to form the highest peak in Hampi. You have promised yourself that this time you will climb to the top for the breath-taking sunset views. A passing shower has made the steep climb on the broken steps built during Vijayanagara times treacherous. With every step the views turn stunning. 

For the first time you get bird’s eye view of the most surreal landscape in the country - the same pebble like boulders, the patches of green and to the north the sliver of Tungabhadra. The Virupaksha Temple radiates golden aura under the setting sun. The prayers from the temple wafts up along with the cool breeze. The sky changes colour every minute. You want to savour every moment. This is your Promised Land.

The views were worth waiting for five years - On top of Matanga Hill and looking towards Virupaksha Temple

You just realise that not a day goes by when you don’t miss Hampi. It seems you have known each other for ages. The next time you will come for a longer visit. You want to spend more time with her. You feel her anguish. We will both sit holding hands looking into each other’s eyes. And then we will let the tears flow. We will cry together – at our ruins, at our fate and our lost glory.

Must Do Things in and around Hampi

Ride a coracle on Tungabhadra river

Watch the sun go down over Hampi from top of Matanga Hill

Walk along Tungabhadra river from Hampi Bazaar to Vitthal Temple

Enjoy a slice of bohemian Hampi across the river from Virupaksha Temple

Marvel at never seen before pre-historic art at Onake Kindi near Chikkarampur Village

Enjoy some fish angling at the sublime Sanapur Lake

Discover the quiet Anegundi Village where the story of Vijaynagara began

A Version of this story appeared in the March-April issue of Inflight Magazine Trujetter

https://trujetter.com/hampi-the-epochal-love-story/

The spread is delicious enough to eat

Related Stories on this Blog

Mahanavamiin Hampi

Prehistoric Art of Onake Kindi

Sanapur Lake

Anegundi - Journey into Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom

Some more Hampi Magic

Anegundi – The Case of Lathe Turned Pillars at Huchhappayaa Matt

After enjoying the view of Tungabhadra river crossing at Talvar Ghatta, you walk a few yards to Huchhappayya Matt. Huchhappayaa Matt is easily the most ornate of structures here in Anegundi. A matt or matha is similar to a monastery or an ashram. Vijaynagar sculpture is mostly characterized by the relief carvings on the pillars but the matt has more. 

Huchhappayya Matt at Anegundi Karnataka

The structure looks like the many mantapas you have seen here. But it soon gets interesting. The structure with a rectangular plan and plain pillars is two storeyed just like Talvar Ghatta. In the centre, the structure rises upto the first floor with a small mantapa on top. There are several nandis placed on a platform. They do not appear in-situ and were probably brought from different temples.

Looking up, you can see the four beam members forming the hollow on the top ornamented quite richly. It is not the usual Vijaynagar sculpture – the sculpture is fine and detailed. There are dancing figures of women – are they performing Dandiya? There are more male and female dancers while some play instruments. Then there are hunting scenes – you can see a prey hanging by its legs being carried on a pole. Battle scenes have warriors riding horses and foot soldiers carrying shields. You go through your Hampi photos – yes these beams are unusual and special.

The Lathe Turned Pillars

The surprise waits on the rear side. Here on the eastern side a colonnade has been erected, possibly at a later date, with surprise, lathe turned pillars. The pillars seem to be built of soapstone. These pillars look out of place among the standard plain granite Hampi pillars. Such lathe cut pillars are a feature of Chalukya, Hoysala and Kakatiya temples that you have seen in places like Lakkundi, Belur and Warangal, but never in Hampi or Anegundi. Hazaar Rama Temple in Hampi has black granite or soapstone pillars but they are not lathe cut. This is quite a mystery. Was there an earlier Chalukyan temple in the vicinity and these seven pillars harvested from it?

Talvar Ghatta, Collapsed Bridge and Tungabhadra River can be seen

View from road going to Anegundi Village

Before Bukka and Harihar moved south from Anegundi and across Tungabhadra to establish Vijaynagar Empire in Hampi, Anegundi was the regional power centre of earlier dynasties like Hoysalas, Chalukyas and Satavahanas. So it is possible that Anegundi had some earlier temples and these pillars were repurposed and used here. However in your several visits to Hampi, you don’t remember seeing any remnants of Chalukya / Hoysalas temples or soapstone / schist construction. Did Hampi too had some Chalukyan era temples which were brought down? This is highly unlikely. So while the Royal Enclosure of Hampi was totally razed by the combined armies of Deccan Sultanates, the temples like Hazaar Ram, Krishna, Virupaksh, Vitthal, Raghunath barely look blemished. Such Chalukyan temples probably existed north of Tungabhadra only in Anegundi.

Lets do Dandiya

Coming back to the beam with women doing Dandiya or Raas Lila; is it possible that the beam too is from a Chalukyan temple? Chalukyas later moved to Gujarat becoming Solankis - same Solankis who built the incredible vavs across Gujarat. And is this how dandiya dance migrated to Gujarat? Possibilities are endless and exciting.

Though the deity is missing, it could have been a Shiv temple since several nandis are seen and also because Huchhappayya means Shiv. It is also possible that the temple is named after Huchhappayya, a sage who meditated here. The setting and the missing deity gives it more plausibility. Also, since the structure uses recycled temple parts - had it been a temple or gudi, the structure would not have used repurposed pillars.

A guru surrounded by devotees, depicted in a wall painting at Anegondi, January 1801. ‘Painting on the Roof of the Jungum Mutt at Anagoondy.’ Latin verse below picture

Composite animal figures depicted in wall paintings at Anegondi, January 1801

Column in the math at Anegondi. January 1801. ‘Elevation of a Pillar in the Jungum Mutt at Anagoondy - All Sketches Courtesy British Library Online Gallery

Okay, there is another surprise now. While going through the online gallery of British Library you come across sketches made of ceiling paintings at this matt. Paintings on the ceiling! Now you again scour through your photos but you are just not able to discern any colour. The  description of one of the sketch says – “The Uchappaya Matha, a dilapidated two-storeyed structure to the south of the village, is of interest for the fragments of Vijayanagara paintings preserved on the ceiling beams. The major part of the paintings, though, no longer exist. This drawing depicts some of the figures from these paintings. In 'A survey of Painting in the Deccan' of 1937, Stella Kramrisch wrote, "The paintings on the ceiling of the Uchayappa Matha at Anegundi to-day present a black and white effect with some red lines of the preliminary drawing left. The colours have disappeared but for an eight petalled lotus with a yellow centre, surrounded by red, on a blue ground in a niche of the wall. Traces of the same colours are preserved in the spandrils and between the pilasters of the wall. Such a fresh blast of colour must be surmised also in the paintings of the ceiling, constructed of large stone slabs. These are covered with a thin white plaster. The entire ceiling, it seems, of the pillared Matha had been painted...In the Anegundi paintings, which can not be prior to the third quarter of the sixteenth century, the figures to a considerable extent adhere in body and movement to classical coinage. They have powerful limbs and vehement gestures...The faces however are almost always in profile or front view. Their firm outline conveys mediaeval rigour...".” Amazing isn’t it!

So with time the paintings are gone. You don’t remember any other Vijaynagar structure with paintings. This matha is full of surprises.

Amazing Anegundi

The matha has one of the best settings on both sides of the river. The temple enclosure sits in the middle of sylvan surroundings – lush paddy fields, swaying coconut trees and the boulders forming the backdrop. You can spend an entire afternoon here all alone. This is a piece of heaven. Anegundi and Hampi are blessed with far too many pieces of heaven. And this is just the beginning of their discovery.

Getting There: Anegundi is about 15 kms south east of Gangavathi taluk of Koppal district in Central Karnataka. Or take a boat or coracle ride from Hampi side just beyond Vitthal Temple

References:

http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/apac/other/largeimage66776.html

Related Anegundi Links:

Anegundi – Journey into Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom

Sanapur Lake

Sublime Sunset and Magical Moonrise over Sanapur Lake in Anegundi - Let the Pictures Do the Talking

Muniswamy is impressed seeing your sincerity as you toil in the heat looking for little known monuments in Hampi. So he promises you a surprise when we go to Anegundi the next day. According to Muni, your regular cabbie in Hampi, such surprises are reserved for passionate travellers only and not for casual tourists. Now it is your turn to be impressed with yourself.

After discovering the Monkey Kingdom of Kishkindha in the charming and laid back village of Anegundi you make your way towards the surprise. Anegundi roads are picture perfect. Lush green paddy fields, swaying coconut trees and huge loose boulders piled up high complete the incredible looking countryside. Anegundi, one of the oldest plateaus of the world about 3000 million years old, has thrown up several surprises in the past few days including pre-historic cave dwellings and paintings. Several episodes of Ramayana have played out among these boulders including the enmity between the brothers Vaali and Sugreev and the ashram where Sabari fed sweet berries to visiting Lord Ram. 

In the early evening, driving among the paddy fields with windows rolled down, you come to an embankment on your left. Sitting in the car, the level of the embankment is above the eyeline as you run your eyes looking for the surprise. And then you hear water sloshing. Woow - the motorcyclist driving up front just got hit by a wave that suddenly leapt up over the embankment! While you were looking for a monument, Muni has delivered you to Apollo Bandar behind Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai, right here in the middle of boulder strewn Anegundi. 

Sanapur Lake at Anegundi

Oh yes - you are definitely surprised and stop the car to see what is going on. The sight is mesmerizing. Just above the edge, lapping waves catch the hues of the sun as it sets over the distant hills. You thought the only water body among the boulders of Hampi and Anegundi was the Tungabhadra river. But here tucked away in complete isolation is the big surprise in the form of Sanapur Lake created by the reservoir of Tungabhadra Left Canal and named after the local village.

The difference is so stark - On the west is the glorious sun setting over rippling waves, while on the east, just beyond the embankment, green paddy fields stretch among the piled up boulders.

Sanapur Lake - Croc Alert!

The road turns to the right sharply and goes over a barrage that regulates the flow downstream. A sign cautions against going into the water as there might be crocodiles. Muni clarifies that no crocs have been sighted and foreigners who stay in Anegundi village are known to take a dip jumping off the boulders. 

Sun sets over the Sanapur Lake Anegundi

Even in an off-the-grid like place Anegundi, this setting is far greater amazing. Irregular shaped boulders line up on both sides of the road as it snakes beyond towards Rangapur. 

Downstream, few local fellows have arrived to catch fish. Coracles dry on the bank. 

You climb one of the boulders and absorb the surroundings. The water turns into liquid gold. All around it is supremely peaceful and serene - just the sound of lapping of water and a divine setting for company. This is a different world.  This is the time when the mind goes silent on its own and nature takes over you. This is the utopia called Sanapur Lake in Anegundi.

Moon Rises over Sanapur Lake

But the surprise continues. As the sun goes down in the west, the moon comes up in the East. You cannot believe your luck – it is a full moon night. The water flowing towards the east catches the moon light. It seems the men tossing the fish line into the water are trying to reel in the moon. Now this is astounding and phenomenal. You have never seen this before. It is like being in the middle of the sea. In the west, the water turns golden catching the dropping sun and here in the east, the water turns silver catching the rising moon.

This is the time to put away the camera and just give in to the moment. This is a moment to experience and feel and store in the cache memory of your mind. Something like this happens after years of travelling. You soak in the sights forever. As if hypnotized, you do not even remember the guys catching the fish leave. Muni is calling you. The spell is broken. It has turned dark and even quieter. Only the skies in the east seem to be lit up. And as you walk to the car, you see a shooting star - looks like your wish has already been fulfilled.

Sanapur Lake - Is that a Shooting Star?

Tungabhadra Dam turning into a Fairyland

On your way back to Hospet, you see the Tungabhadra Dam twinkling away in brilliant colours. Looking from the Hospet road bridge, it looks like a fairyland. What an amazing evening. In Hampi and Anegundi it seems as if every evening is different, heavenly and almost life altering. This is when you have not yet climbed Anjanadri Hill and Matanga Hill for their scintillating sunsets.

Getting There: Sanapur Village is few kms away from Anegundi in Koppal District of Karnataka on the road to Hospet. Turn right from Sanapur Village to reach the lake.