Hampi – The Epochal Love Story

From a distance it seems pebbles have been strewn around carelessly forming mounds. Coming closer, the huge loose granite boulders begin to take shape. Stretched among these precariously balanced boulders piled high, paddy fields glow in the morning sun. Coconut palms sway to the music of the breeze. The sparkling Tungabhadra River flows serenely. High up, a lone mantapa perched on the side of the hill standing guard for centuries watches this scene dispassionately. This is the hauntingly enchanting landscape of UNESCO World Heritage Site Hampi in Karnataka that witnessed the rise and downfall of one of the greatest Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagara.

The Classic Hampi Landscape - you could look at it for the rest of your life - boulders, palms, Tungabhadra and the ruins

The love story that started few years ago has grown stronger over several visits. It was love at first sight with the austere and grandiose Hampi and now every visit is a joyous homecoming. The ochre boulders, the green banana plantations and the grey ruins seem to hold you into a lulling embrace filling your entire being with surging bliss. You want to see, feel and experience more of Hampi.

The Bazaar area of Krishna Temple - One of the four temple complexes in Hampi and as with every temple complex there is a huge Pushkarni

This is Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom where several episodes of Ramayana were played out. Ram & Lakshman had arrived here looking for the abducted Sita when they met Sugriv and his chief minister Hanuman. Upon Hanuman’s request, Ram kills the usurper brother Vali restoring the kingdom to Sugriv whose help was needed to find Sita. Across Tungabhadra, overlooking the Pampa Sarovar where Ram bathed, Sabari fed berries to Ram. The stories don’t end here. The Pampa Sarovar or Lotus Pond is named after Brahma’s daughter Pampa who performed penances on Hemakuta Hill attracting attention of Shiva. Shiva seated in meditation after destroying Kama, god of love, finally relented and married Pampa and she became identified as his consort Parvati. The God and Goddess are worshipped in Virupaksha Temple; Hampi or Pampakshetra’s oldest temple. Locally, Shiva is known as Virupaksha.

The King's Balance - the kings supposedly got themselves weighed in gold and silver and then donated it to the public - on the walking trail along the Tungabhadra from Virupaksha Temple to Vitthal Temple

In 1336, two brothers Harihara and Bukka, who probably ruled over the tiny principality of Anegundi, crossed over the Tungabhadra to establish the capital city of Vijaynagara – City of Victory - which grew into the formidable Vijaynagara Empire. Over a period of 200 years, the kingdom would become fabulously rich, powerful and the largest in South India. Vijaynagara became an important trading centre. Chroniclers from Persia, Italy and Portugal who visited during this period were dazzled by the unrivalled imperial splendour, the likes of which they had not seen before.

Last time the serene Tungabhadra raged during the monsoons and you wimped out and refused to climb the boat. This time you jump across the boulders to discover the Bohemian piece of Hampi with shacks and budget hotels catering to backpackers

The magnificence of Hampi is best appreciated by walking. Virupakhsa Temple, patronized by the founders and around which the city grew is the logical place to start. Hemakuta Hill with its smattering of temples and mantapas lies to the south offering atmospheric views of the temple and its towering gopuras. The sprawling temple complex has a 100-columned hall and coronation mandap decorated with fantastic yalis and makaras. The ceiling has brilliant paintings depicting mythological scenes and royal life. The living temple sees the most visitors and devotees thronging the mandaps and sanctum. Don’t miss Laxmi, the petite elephant blessing the visitors. Emerge out from the north gateway to the Manmatha pushkarni. Just beyond the Tungabhadra flows.

Hampi's skies are always atmospheric and here they seem to be in a mixed mood - Manmantha Pushkarni at the living Virupaksha Temple

Come back to Hampi Bazaar where a long colonnaded bazaar stretches in front of Virupaksha Temple, one of the four street bazaars, a feature common to all the temples in the sacred centre. At the far end, a colossal Nandi is seated in a mandap with the backdrop of Matanga Hill.

You can keep going to Hampi forever for this sight. Ride the circular boats made of reed and bamboo. Just like the inhabitants of Vijaynagar did hundreds of years ago. In the distance is the Anjanadri Hill in Anegundi where Hanuman was born

If you want to go back into time, turn left from Hampi Bazaar and walk along Tungabhadra with perhaps the most remarkable setting. Time seems to have stopped here. Devotees dressed like they did 700 years ago rest on the rocks at Chakratirtha, the holiest bathing spot, after paying obeisance at the Kodandrama Temple. Circular boats made of reed and bamboo called coracles rest on the riverbank like they have done through the ages. Sit with the devotees as you watch the tranquil waters flow through a gorge towards Anjanadri Hill, where Hanuman was born. Hampi is a window where you can watch mythology, lost glory of Vijaynagar and the present in the same frame.

The lofty gopurums of the temples in Hampi are built of bricks with stucco bas relief ornamentation. Exposure to elements have damaged the gopurams. Conservation efforts are underway at Krishna Temple 

Continue walking along the river, as you pass the Courtesan’s Street, another bazaar that leads to the third temple complex Achyutaraya Temple, until you reach a double storeyed pavilion like gateway with the King’s Balance next to it where the kings were weighed against gold and gems. This brings you to the most ornate temple complex called Vitthal Temple. Here the iconic Garuda shrine in the form of wheeled chariot pulled by horses stands splendidly under blue skies.  

Hampi - Every visit to Hampi reveals more surprises. Here you meet the most enchanting and the prettiest woman in whole of Vijaynagar - what flair what verve and what a hairstyle - You are in love!

But then all good things come to an end. The Deccan Sultanates to the North form a coalition. Vijaynagar army is routed in the Battle of Talikota in 1565. For next six months, the beautiful city is ravaged and pillaged. The ruined town is soon abandoned. The lively streets and bazaars that saw merchants from across the world trade gold, gems, ivory, brocade, silk and horses were soon overgrown and forgotten.

You love the blue skies over Hampi. They add that extra dimension to the ruins and the landscape. Here, last time you were treated to a beautiful sunset; this time ruins and wrestling sculptures

The Royal Enclosure bore the brunt of the pillage that followed the doomed battle. Nothing survives except the beautiful unearthed pushkarni with elevated stone aqueducts and the massive three-tiered Mahanavami Dibba platform. During the nine days of Navaratri, the king sat on a gem studded throne on top witnessing the grand celebrations with dazzling display of wealth and power.  Foreign chroniclers have left glowing accounts of the extravagant pomp and splendour.

The Zenana Enclosure is relatively damaged and houses the prettiest structures - The Lotus Mahal incorporating distinct Islamic architecture is one of Hampi's most recognisable monument

Hampi - The Elephant Stables

The high fortification walls bring you to Zenana Enclosure. Inside, the Lotus Mahal and the elephant stables with pointed arches, vaults and domes built in distinct Islamic architecture are apparently inspired by the contemporary neighbouring Bahmani Kingdom. In fact, there is an entire Islamic Quarter near the Malyavanta Hill which points to cosmopolitan spirit of Vijayanagara.

The higher you climb the Matanga Hill, the more spectacular Hampi turns - Here is the bird's eye view of the massive Achyutaraya Temple

After a full day of exploring on foot, there is one last promise to keep. You are back at the entrance of Achyutaraya Temple. Unfrequented by the tourists, it is all quiet here. On the right rises the craggy Matanga Hill. The rounded boulders have inexplicably arranged themselves to form the highest peak in Hampi. You have promised yourself that this time you will climb to the top for the breath-taking sunset views. A passing shower has made the steep climb on the broken steps built during Vijayanagara times treacherous. With every step the views turn stunning. 

For the first time you get bird’s eye view of the most surreal landscape in the country - the same pebble like boulders, the patches of green and to the north the sliver of Tungabhadra. The Virupaksha Temple radiates golden aura under the setting sun. The prayers from the temple wafts up along with the cool breeze. The sky changes colour every minute. You want to savour every moment. This is your Promised Land.

The views were worth waiting for five years - On top of Matanga Hill and looking towards Virupaksha Temple

You just realise that not a day goes by when you don’t miss Hampi. It seems you have known each other for ages. The next time you will come for a longer visit. You want to spend more time with her. You feel her anguish. We will both sit holding hands looking into each other’s eyes. And then we will let the tears flow. We will cry together – at our ruins, at our fate and our lost glory.

Must Do Things in and around Hampi

Ride a coracle on Tungabhadra river

Watch the sun go down over Hampi from top of Matanga Hill

Walk along Tungabhadra river from Hampi Bazaar to Vitthal Temple

Enjoy a slice of bohemian Hampi across the river from Virupaksha Temple

Marvel at never seen before pre-historic art at Onake Kindi near Chikkarampur Village

Enjoy some fish angling at the sublime Sanapur Lake

Discover the quiet Anegundi Village where the story of Vijaynagara began

A Version of this story appeared in the March-April issue of Inflight Magazine Trujetter

https://trujetter.com/hampi-the-epochal-love-story/

The spread is delicious enough to eat

Related Stories on this Blog

Mahanavamiin Hampi

Prehistoric Art of Onake Kindi

Sanapur Lake

Anegundi - Journey into Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom

Some more Hampi Magic

Anegundi Fort and Origin of the Vijaynagara Empire

Malik Kafur, the feared general of Delhi’s Sultan Alauddin Khilji swept across South India and annexed Warangal in 1309. In 1310, the old capital of Hoysala Ballalas at Dvarasamudra was taken. After an expedition deep down to Madurai, Malik Kafur returned to his master with a booty loaded on 312 elephants, 20000 horses that included ten crore gold coins and a certain diamond known as Kohinoor. Six years later, prince of Devagiri – modern Daulatabad – Haripal Deva was killed by Mubarak Shah Khilji of Delhi. In 1323, Kakatiya’s Warangal fell. Entire Northern India and Deccan upto Krishna River was under Muslim rule. The ancient Hindu kingdoms of the south like Pandyas, Cholas and Cheras were probably quaking in their boots. Muhammad bin Tughlaq, eccentric and cruel, ascended the throne of Delhi in 1325. The quaking just got ratcheted up a few notches on the Richter scale. It seemed it was a matter of time before the remaining Hindu kingdoms would be subjugated and laid to waste.

The Blissful Anegundi Fort

In his celebrated book ‘A Forgotten Empire (Vijaynagar)’, Robert Sewell says that after the incessant march of Muslim rule south of Vindhyas and Deccan, suddenly in about 1344 there was complete halt to the wave. The check was caused by three small Hindu states: Warangal and Dvarasamudra that were already defeated; and the third was the tiny Anegundi which ultimately grew into the mighty Vijaynagar empire. The southern kings submitted to this empire.

Dvarasamudra, 300 kms south of Anegundi, is the modern day Halebidu and a tourist magnet for the magnificient Hoysala temples. You missed this connection completely when you visited Halebidu last. Anegundi and Dvarasamudra will always be overshadowed by Hampi and Halebidu in the modern traveling context. Warangal, in Telangana, with its devastated fort and Thousand Pillar Temple is about 600 kms north east to Anegundi.

Remnants of Anegundi Citadel Walls on the left

Surviving Anegundi Citadel Walls on the Rishyamukha Hill

In about 1330, taking advantage of the incredible geographical feature of granite boulders piled high into loose hills, a family of chiefs, probably feudatories of Hoysalas Ballalas, built an immensely fortified citadel nestled in the hills and protected by the mighty Tungabhadra in the south. And so begins the journey of Hampi (Vijaynagar) from this unassuming small village of Anegundi. Firishta believes that the chiefs had existed as a ruling family for seven hundred years prior to 1350 AD.

Sewell further says, that looking from the Hampi side, he would see the Anegundi citadel fortifications running across the hill but never got the chance to cross the river and explore to prove Firishta right.

Anegundi Country side

Let us go back into time to see how this happened. According to Sewell, there are several versions. Tughlaq, after overrunning Gujarat, marched southwards against his rebel nephew Baha-ud-din Gushtasp who had taken refuge with the king or Raya of Kampli. Kampli is a small town about 25 kms from Hampi. Raya sent the nephew to Dvarasamundra and himself shifted to Anegundi where the chances of defending against the Sultan were better. The year was possibly 1334. Raya was killed, the fortress of Anegundi seized and his eleven sons taken prisoners and converted to Islam. The Sultan chased his nephew southwards, skinned him alive and had his flesh cooked with rice. The skin was stuffed with straw to be exhibited throughout the country along with the identical remains of Ghiyas-ud-din Bahadur Bura of Bengal. Tughlaq certainly had his soft side.

Back in Anegundi, the Sultan left Malik Naib as the governor and probably came back to Delhi. He was missing the daily spectacle of trampling of denizens by elephants at his swank Hazar Sutan palace in Jahanpanah Delhi. Anegundi’s local population rose against the usurpers and the kind hearted Tughlaq restored the kingdom back to Hindus by installing Deva Raya as the Raja and his brother Bukka as the Chief Minister. In 1336, Deva Raya or Harihara Deva I founded the city of Vijaynagar on the other side of the river with the help of great religious teacher Madhav. The river along with the boulder hills would provide better protection against the marauders from the north. Bukka succeeded Harihar and ruled for thirty seven years. This version is almost true since we know Vijaynagar was established by the brothers Harihar I and Bukka and the third king was Harihar II, son of Bukka.

Other accounts say that the brothers Bukka and Harihar, were in the service of king of Warangal and escaped to Anegundi when Warangal was attacked in 1323 and were accompanied by the Brahman Madhava or Madhavacharya. Another account says that the brothers were officers of the Muslim governor of Warangal who were part of expedition against the Hoysala Ballalas. The brothers’ battalion was probably defeated and they fled to Anegundi where they met the recluse Madhava and established the empire. Still other accounts say that the brothers were feudatories of Hoysala Ballalas, while some accounts say it was the hermit Madhav himself founded the city of Vijaynagara.

To put things in perspective, Ibn Battuta was visiting India during these years of 1333 to 1342 and was a member of Tughlaq’s court. The first account of the Raya being slain and his sons converted has been corroborated by Battuta who seemed to have met them. This is getting interesting as you have already covered these events in a post on Delhi’s Fourth City of Tughlaqabad; same Tughlaq guy – eccentric, tyrant and smart - now playing in a parallel new arena.

So what happened in the year 1344? Apparently, Krishna Naik, son of Rudra Deva of Warangal, Ballala Deva of Dvarasamudra and Bukka combined to first free Warangal. The Muslim governor Imad-ul-Mulkh retreated to Daulatabad. Soon other kingdoms of the South joined and Muslims were expelled from Deccan. The southern kingdoms reportedly submitted peacefully; perhaps just glad to keep the foreigners out. The tiny principality of Anegundi gave birth to the kingdom of Vijaynagara that soon expanded to become an empire. Abdur Razzak, an envoy from Persia who visited in the early 1440s, reports that Vijaynagara stretched from sea to sea and from Deccan to Cape Comorin heading an army of eleven lacs troops.   

All Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq was left with was Daulatabad. The peace would be short-lived. Soon the Vijaynagar rulers will have to contend with the Deccan Sultanates that formed after revolting against Delhi Sultanate in 1347.

View from halfway up the Anegundi Fort

Enough of history - now let us go see what Sewell missed seeing from the other side of Tungabhadra. You drive west from Anegundi village. On the left rises the hill called Rishyamukha where Sugreev lived. These are the most interesting hills you have ever come across – the hills are simply made of huge piles of boulders loosely balanced atop each other. 

Steps leading to Durga Temple and Anegundi Fort

Hanuman Temple around the first bend in the walls

Second Level of Fortifications leading into Durga Temple

The first line of citadel walls can be seen as you drive around Anegundi area. These are the walls which Sewell looked at wistfully from across the river. A short steep ride brings you to the base of the hill with a parking spot and a kiosk selling drinks and snacks. This is when you discover the simple trusting life of a small town. The kiosk owner has to go run an errand. Your driver Muniswamy is deputed to take care of the store while he is gone – amazing; you doubt you will see something like this in a big city. You take in the sights looking eastwards at the waters of Tungabhadra.

It is time to climb the Rishyamukha Hill. The steps wind around the boulders on both sides. You encounter the first fortifications. Here you turn left into a narrow doorway which probably later has been converted into Hanuman Temple. Up ahead, the path turns right into second line of fortifications. Here again the gateway is guarded by imposing square bastions.

Durga Temple on way to Anegundi Fort

You cross the gateway to enter into the courtyard of the Durga Temple. The temple and other subsidiary buildings are all of recent construction. The best feature is the big tree with colorful strips of clothes tied around its branches holding coconuts as good luck charm.

Boulder strewn path leading to main gate of Anegundi Fort

Anegundi Fort

Anegundi Fort - View from Main Gate

Just beyond, a boulder strewn path takes you to the main entrance of Anegundi Fort. Now this looks like a fort that you are familiar with. Tall imposing bastion like circular turrets guard the low gateway. The turrets are topped with kanguras or crenellations. On the top of gateway, a projecting balcony looks over the approach path. Guards probably kept an eye on the visitors here. You haven’t seen these architectural elements across Hampi. Were these constructed by the later Vijaynagar kings after the Battle of Talikota or were they constructed by the Deccan Sultanates? You are again not sure if the sultanate stayed back here or went back to their infightings and regular skirmishes with the Mughals.

Anegundi Map

Looking back at the Main Gate of Anegundi Fort

Interestingly Placed Boulders

Sliced Boulders and looking towards Main Gate

Beyond the main gate a path takes you straight into the fort. Surprisingly this is a comparatively flat stretch of land. On the right, boulders interestingly placed over each other create a possible watch tower. 

The Pushkarni in Anegundi Fort

On the right is a small pushkarni or a stepwell. Water bodies are a feature of all forts across India. During times of siege, these water tanks sustained the inhabitants of the forts.

Looking towards Vaali Cave where Vaali fought the Asur and locked in by Sugreev

For the first time, you encounter people in the fort. There is a local visitor and the priest. You exchange pleasantries. People are always intrigued with a person from far off Delhi in this neck of woods. Just beyond on the right, boulders create a cave with a temple. The man informs this is the Vaali Cave - Vaali Cave, really? Now this is a surprise. You have missed seeing the Sugreev Cave on your walk from Hampi Bazaar along the Tungabhadra towards Vitthal Temple. It is believed Vaali fought a duel with Mayavi asur in this cave and which was sealed off by Sugreev when he saw blood pouring out. In your excitement, it seems you forgot to take a close-up photo of the cave.

Standing Ganesh image with wife Siddhi

The priest further informs that the cave has a Hanuman Temple which is facing South. Usually Hanuman Temples face North. It could be unusual but not rare. Inside, there is standing Ganesh image with his wife Siddhi on left. The priest believed that standing Ganesh is also rare and usually Siddhi is not seen. Iconography is not really your forte. And in matters of faith, reality is a casualty. You have no way of actually validating if this is Vaali Cave and if the idol dates back to Vijaynagar times.

On the left a ruined gateway can be seen with the arch built of bricks. The Gagan Mahal in Anegundi village was built of bricks. You do not remember seeing brick arches in Hampi though the shikars of temples are built of bricks. Again, you are not sure how old this structure is.

Construction material for Vijaynagara Empire

Closely-spaced series of holes along which the boulders were sliced

And then you see these boulders that have serrated edges. You have seen such sliced rocks across Hampi and Chitradurga. There was no need to gouge out hills. The loose boulders provided easy construction material. To break rocks, the workers drilled small closely-spaced series of holes in the rock. By gently tapping iron pegs wedged into the holes, the workers were able to split the rock precisely where they wanted. Water poured into the holes helped split the rock more easily. Sometimes instead of using iron pegs, the rock was gently wedged apart along the line of holes. So simple and so ingenious.

Ramaraya's Samadhi?

Coming back towards the main gate you turn right to investigate. Within an enclosure you see few mantapas. One has only the pillars standing. The one behind survives with a seemingly later built parapet on top. The third mantap looks like of modern construction. The mantaps were possibly tombs or samadhis. Is it possible that one of these samadhis is of Ramaraya, the son-in-law of Krishna Devaraya? Tiny dolmen like structures have been erected by worshippers for good luck. You were mystified to see such rock arrangements at the Ajaigarh Fort in Panna MP.

The Surprise - Circular Structures

Walking further into the thick shrubbery brings you more surprises. Hidden here are three circular plastered structures built of brick and rubble. While one is in good shape, the other two are ruined. Arched windows can be seen in the structures. You don’t know if there is a window on the other side too. Now what can these structures be? Are these tombs or guard chambers? They do not seem to belong to Vijaynagara architecture. Rubble masonry and plaster was not Vijaynagar’s style. Were they built later by the sultanate victors?

Zone of Bliss in Anegundi Fort

On top of the Ramayana’s Rishyamukha Hill, in Anegundi Fort, built by founders of the Vijaynagar Empire, hidden among trees with no one around, you find yourself in zone of bliss. Butterflies flit and charm, wispy clouds float in the blue sky, branches with flowers sway in the breeze - a moment when you are lost from the world. For company you have these strange looking structures and a crumbled stone mantap. It cannot get better than this. You want to stay here and stay lost to the world.

On Your Way Out

It is time to wrench yourself away and start the walk back into the world. In a few hours you will be in another zone of bliss. Anegundi’s middle name is Bliss.

On the Way Down

You come back to find two foreigners sipping aerated drinks while Muniswamy is still commandeering the store. You need a drink yourself after the climb. After making some small talk, the fellow visitors drive off on their rented mopeds. This is the way to experience Anegundi – stay in the village, hire mopeds and just drive around. The coracles will take you and the moped across the river. The store owner arrives; ledger is balanced and cash handed over. Muniswamy has a surprise waiting for you just beyond. Did you say you could get used to the life here?

One Last Look over Anegundi

Sewell would have been happy to cross the river and walk around the the fort. Maybe a century ago - his book was first published in 1900 - he probably would have discovered evidence that could have dated the citadel back to 7^th or 8^th century. It was these granite boulders and the citadel that blocked the invasions from the North.

These boulders have seen the goings on for 3000 million years. Anegundi is perhaps the oldest plateau on Earth. But you do wish that Vijaynagara, the City of Victory, had stayed unconquered and proud. Standing on the banks of Tungabhadra, it would have been a marvelous sight to see the Vijaynagara elephants making their way back to Anegundi in the evening. Anegundi literally means a pit or enclosure of elephants.

But then who can challenge fate. What Malik Kafur started with Anegundi, the mother; the Deccan Sultanates ended by killing her child Vijaynagar. No boulders or fortifications or even the mighty Tungabhadra could stop the combined forces of the Deccan Sultanate from slaughtering the child who had grown into the glorious and youthful Vijaynagar. Vijayanagar, the child is gone but the mother Anegundi still lives on. Wracked by grief, Anegundi is stoic and dignified. She would not want Malik Kafur to see her tears. Even with her loss, we want Anegundi to live forever and be blissful always.

Getting There: Anegundi is about 15 kms south east of Gangavathi taluk of Koppal district in Central Karnataka. Or take a boat or coracle ride from Hampi side just beyond Vitthal Temple

References:

1.   A Forgotten Empire (Vijaynagar) by Robert Sewell

2.   http://karnatakatravel.blogspot.in/2012/09/anegundi-fort.html

3.   http://www.lakshmisharath.com/2010/09/08/the-story-of-how-dwarasamudra-became-halebeedu-3/

4.   Cutting Edge Technology – ASI Sign at Chitradurga Fort explaining the slicing of boulders for use as construction material

5.   http://historicalleys.blogspot.in/2011/08/malik-kafur-in-malabar-myth.html

Related Anegundi Links on this blog:

Anegundi - Old Hampi

Huchhappayya Matt

Anegundi - Journey into Kishkindha, the Monkey Kingdom

Sublime Sunset and Magical Moonrise over Sanapur Lake

Your Old Friend Tughlaq