Friday 10 November 2023

Into the Wild – Adventures in Delhi Ridge

Malcha Mahal - 2018


Feroz Shah Tughlaq was the original builder of Delhi. Later he would inspire Ansals and DLF to venture into real estate development. Apart from constructing assorted cities, tombs, repairing Suraj Kund, repairing and adding penthouses to Qutb Minar, desilting Hauz Khas, he also built a series of Kushk-i-Shikar or Hunting Lodges in Delhi’s ridge area.

Malcha Mahal, originally a Hunting Lodge, built in 14th Century by Feroze Shah Tughlaq, Central Ridge, New Delhi

The Melancholy of Malcha Mahal


The hunting lodge within the Teen Murti Museum premises, is built on a high platform and is simple in design suited for a day’s excursion. Pir Ghaib in Northen Ridge has surprising design elements with a steep stairway up its spine. Some people think it might have been used as an observatory. Had it been built at Teen Murti it would have created a pleasant mingling of medieval and modern planetariums at arm’s length. Bhuli Bhatiyari in the north of central ridge almost looks like a fortress with interestingly shaped battered ramparts and a tall gateway. This was probably built for a weekend getaway with the buddies sharing stories how they managed to save their miserable lives after being lost in the jungles of Odisha.



Inspired by Sam Miller (Sam walks in spiral routes across Delhi in his book ‘Delhi: Adventures in a Megacity’) you make your third foray into the Central Ridge to locate the still evasive Malcha Mahal (it seems it is easier to spot Bigfoot) now vacant after the death of the descendants of Awadh Nawabs. So what, if they pulled a big hoax.

Of all the hunting lodges, Malcha Mahal seems most likely to be a residence for a leisurely stay in the monsoons. You could swear you saw remains of a possible outer defensive wall on the approach to the mahal. There is a ruined, possibly annexe for guards and attendants to the South. Thick vegetation seems to have swallowed the structure. The perimeter is not easy to explore as you circle around finally entering from the west gate.

The structure is typically Tughlaq – rubble masonry, some surviving plaster with little decoration, and double column pillars. Inside there are interconnected rooms with several stairways in different directions leading to the roof. It means guests in each room had their own private access to the roof for game observation. Some sort of conservation seems to be going on in some parts. The surprising feature not seen before in Delhi are the two sweeping curving stairways (reminds you of Hindi movies rich heroines’ mansions with Pran walking down in robes smoking a pipe) on each side of the main east facing entrance. You counted at least five stairways. The other stairs are simple and straight and narrow that most tombs have.

So here you have Tughlaq with his guests with their own private rooms and stairs who have come into the dense forests of Delhi for some kicking back. Delhi then probably had more variety of wild animals than the monkeys with red butts, dogs and the jackals you saw here for the first time.



We have all heard of the stories of the eccentric Begum who had moved here over three decades ago with half dozen fierce hounds and proclamations warning trespassers of dire consequences. Over the last many years, Begum Wilayat Mahal died in 1993 allegedly by swallowing crushed diamonds, followed by the death of the Princess Shakina and recently of the Prince Ali Raza aka Cyrus in 2017. Their story was tragic and they died exiled, ridiculed, hungry, forgotten and relieved of all their belongings and trappings that would befit the descendants of the glorious Nawabs of Awadh.



Begum family photos from Internet

Entering the structure does give a spooky feeling. Most tombs, forts, palaces that you visit have far from pleasant past. But all that was in distant past with the present effectively disinfecting the gory past. But here it is more personal. This is a till recently lived-in monument where the derived inmates had died tragically recently. Walking through the ransacked dwelling with emptied trunks, broken almirahs, bare cots, empty chairs, upturned carpets, clothes turned into rags; it does feel uncomfortable. Yes, it would not be easy coming here alone. The company of the friends and joking among ourselves helps lift the despair and hopelessness that hangs heavy here - something that you felt at Thibaw Palace in Ratnagiri.





And that is how the story of Delhi has played out over centuries




The mood lifts considerably as we climb the roof. The roof is a grassland and bush country. And it offers some of the most awesome views of New Delhi with the dome of Rashtrapati Bhawan, Cathedral Church of the Redemption and the huge tricolour flag fluttering over Connaught Place visible beyond the greenery of the ridge in the hazy air.

On the grassy roof of Malcha Mahal



Malcha Mahal - the vibe is spooky, the views out of the world, wild jackal sighting, and then cops pay you visit - a wholesome monument visit


You have a feeling you are overdrawing on the Begum’s benevolence. She wants you to leave now. By now the Delhi Earth Station with those spooky satellite dishes knows of your presence. They don’t like visitors either. The nice judge at Delhi’s HC has asked the government to relocate the station and rehabilitate the already diminishing ridge.


 




You make your way to your vehicle and as expected cops show up. You keep having these ugly experiences with guards, assorted idiots and cops at monuments. The cop experience at Bhuli Bhatiyari complex few years ago is better forgotten. You do not want any more kerfuffle. You smile and show them your favourite Delhi tree book that you always carry. The cops who have been dragged into the forest to look for three suspicious characters now look visibly disappointed on seeing these stupid tree spotters. Time to say the Begum goodbye for now.    



Advisory - Don't go but if you do, go in a group and lookout for the cops, pack of wild dogs and the always suspicious Delhi Earth Station staff

References:

The Story that Blew the Lid Off: https://www.irishtimes.com/news/world/asia-pacific/the-amazing-epic-tale-of-the-indian-jungle-prince-1.4095640

https://www.bbc.com/news/stories-41861843

Malcha Mahal: From the abode of ‘royals’ to ghost house | Latest News Delhi - Hindustan Times

What is Malcha Mahal, the place where Delhi’s first ‘haunted walk’ leads to? | What Is News - The Indian Express

https://www.hindustantimes.com/delhi-news/descendent-of-awadh-nawab-dies-a-pauper-in-abandoned-14-century-delhi-lodge/story-mkLR1etCcyuaqP55K7obTN.html

The Sad, Creepy, Tale Of India's Fake Royal Family In A Dead Palace | Cracked.com

The Horrifying Story Behind This 600-Year-Old Haunted Palace In Delhi Will Give You Sleepless Nights - ScoopWhoop

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/delhi-high-court-rid-ridge-of-illegal-structures-isro-observatory/articleshow/104383979.cms?from=mdr

https://www.delhitourism.gov.in/delhitourism/booking/heritage_walk.jsp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSB3aBsbbKY


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Sunday 18 June 2023

'Holi'Day in Delhi

8th March 2023

These days it takes copious amounts of self-will to still that furiously tail-spinning mind for a few moments. Holi has been gone for months and half the year is already gone and you do not want this godblessed blog to miss an entry from this year. So, on an oppressive morning with Navgraha Stotram playing in a loop - yes you need all the help - you finally manage to sit down to write this down. 

Summers in Delhi now swing from heat waves to oppressively hot and humid days and if last year was a sign of things to come, these next few months are going to be a torture with the buzzkill El Nino probably denying the few days of scant monsoon rains.

The Semals Delighted Again - Mirror Mirror on the Bus

The Petunias that saved the Spring

Holi for some reason this year seemed subdued in the neighbourhood. The lingering pandemic has taken the funk out of the festival. Last year you had experienced some hair-raising traffic incidents in the North-West part of the city. Holi or no Holi, the immensely kind and amiable citizens of Delhi love to show their moronic dare-devilry on the streets. This time you decide to be less adventurous and stay in your own familiar neck of woods. The annual tradition has to continue, even if partly curtailed.


The Painted Sector 30 Pillars of the Elevated Road


The day is hot and the sky is unwelcoming and grey, reflecting the mood of the festival day so far. Maybe across the Yamuna, the sky could cheer up and show some festival colour. You will make your way through the familiar roads of Noida. Bridge pillars and walls in Noida, like elsewhere in the country, are getting a big splash of colour. The pillars of the elevated road opposite the Children’s Hospital in Sector 30 have some cheerful art of kids and nature. In the days leading to G20 Summit, the authorities are expected to go overboard in painting the town red, green and yellow. 

Along with the wall paintings they have thrown in some disco psychedelic lights. The commuters can tripp without trippingg on their way home. All this has been designed by the caring babus to keep everyone high and funky. The fun begins when dusk falls.

The Boys of Holi


Throwback to the Surreal Lockdown Days 


This Cotton Silk tree has kept you company all these Holi Days

It is here that you run into the first group of Holi revellers. For the first time you see signs of the festival. And they are happy to oblige. No, these photos will not appear in any newspaper. Sorry to disappoint you guys. But yes they will definitely appear in the world’s most followed travel blog. The google server might just crash when you upload this piece.



The Suffocating and Dying Yamuna

Under the dull skies the Yamuna looks even more depressing. Every year you look at the rapidly diminishing toxic strand of water thinking it will be the last time before the river chokes into oblivion. On the northern side, all you can see is piers that will hold more bridges of this ever-growing monstrosity of a metro. On the eastern bank, blocks of concrete rapidly encroach upon the floodplains – politicians, authorities, law enforcement agencies, all gleefully happy. Once Yamuna disappears, crores will be spent in uncovering the river just like the morons are doing for the now gone Saraswati river. We all have our priorities set so right.

The new Ashram Flyover now directly connecting DND

The DND Ring Road loop is getting more dollops of concrete. The Ashram flyover has been stretched so that the motorists can now drop straight onto the now uncared for and rapidly disintegrating DND. In this all-round loopy development, you are just glad that the semal on the central verge has miraculously survived. Under the sad skies, few blooms twinkle. All is not lost yet.

The Original Barapullah


You stop over on the new Barapullah to look at the original Barapullah. The original still looks in good repair. For Holi, the traffic has picked up on the bridge. It is not safe to linger here. On the right, the domes of Khan-i-Khanan and Humayun tombs line up in a never before observed frame – for now you will save it in your memory to be clicked on an early Sunday morning.

The Glowing Semal and the Cluster Buses



Fish Out of Water - New Additions to the Lodhi Art District

 Celebrating Pandit Birju Maharaj

The Barapullah brings you to the centre of your Happy Zone. All these weekend visits to this part of the city keeps you sane in these confusing times. And as on cue, the skies wipe the grey off to reveal blue with white clouds. Yes, this is the magic of the Happy Zone. Finally Holi is looking colourful. Semal trees have again smiled this year. You will take position on the corner of Lodhi Road and Maharshi Raman Marg. A glorious Silk Cotton Tree stands resplendent with orange blooms. The orange cluster city buses wait at the red light twinning with the tree. For the first time you are smiling. The outing has just turned worthwhile.

Matthew Circle - The Flower Easel






Of Course!





And just a few days ago, Tulips were in full bloom before the heat decimated them.



From here you will move to see the flower decked roundabouts. The NDMC Horticulture Department never fails to disappoint in Spring. The early unseasonal heat smouldered most of the flowers. The Tulips of few days ago have turned into burnt stalks. Probably, that is the reason more petunias have been planted this year. Petunias tolerate heat better and can continue to bloom till April and May. The Matthew Circle is a cornucopia of colours. This is the flagship roundabout of New Delhi and probably gets attention from NDMC’s best gardeners and planners. And as always, you stop by the sidewalk, wave to the traffic cops huddled around the traffic hut and cross over into the flowery heaven.

Teen Murti


Teen Murti Bhawan or Nehru Museum now will be known as Pradhan Mantri Sangrahalaya


No idea how G20 will help the people

That Mother Dairy!

Before they decide to pull them down



Willingdon Crescent

Now it will be back to some good old time travelling to Teen Murti and the newly christened Pradhanmantri Sangrahalaya. Maybe one of these days you will go visit and look at the changes inside. To you this will always be Teen Murti and Teen Murti Bhawan and that familiar street over there, Willingdon Crescent where all the memories were made and that you will keep visiting here in the physical world and the nocturnal world.

The always surprising Bhagwan Mahavir Vanasthali in Delhi's Central Ridge


The Remains of the Festival


It is in your new haunt in Delhi’s ridge where interesting episodes are happening. Bhagwan Mahavir Vanasthali on Simon Bolivar Marg is your own little Eden. Away from the picnickers and joggers of Nehru Park, this park is an absolute beauty with the right mix of landscaped and wild grounds. On the weekend before the First Lockdown you had saved a monkey that was probably mauled by the resident dogs. Animal rescue van did turn up. Hope the little guy is back being a terror to humans.

 

FB Post that you made with your Encounter with the Tree Man!

Holi Run & Running into Pradip Krishen

The Huffing & Puffing Years

Not sure what it is but it did not feel like Holi this year. The colony roads were mostly silent all morning. Maybe it is the new Influenza A Virus H3N2 that is raging through the city. Your love affair continues with every new virus on the block.

Getting out is becoming increasingly difficult each year and you almost wanted to call Ola and then ask the driver to click few photos. The run will be curtailed and will be limited to New Delhi. Last year you had made it to Rohini!

The early heat apparently did something to the flowers. The tulips bloomed for few days before disappearing. It is the petunias that have saved the Spring for Delhi. They have literally taken over the parks. Everything else has wimpered out.

 

 Yup that's Pradip Krishen! 

And then you see this gentleman trying to protect his dogs from being mauled by the resident doggies. They are the same doggies perhaps who mauled that little monkey few years ago. You do a double take. The man looks familiar. Are you Pradip Krishen? Yes! It is so nice to finally meet you. He along with his Man Friday are trying to get their dogs away to their vehicle. There is lot of barking going on from both sides. The quiet park is suddenly live. You wished you had the book with you. Times like this and suddenly you don’t know what to say. You gather your thoughts quickly. I am sure there will no book ever like this on trees. Thank you! And they drag their dogs away to the parking lot.

Woof - What just happened here!

To be continued…

 

The Chamrod Stars


The heat has made the park bone dry. The sun and the clouds monkey around. Chamrods and bougainvilleas bloom. The dogs are now resting after woofing off the intruders. Monkey families sit on the branches bonding.  

 

The Glass House Petunia Heart

Lodhi Gardens with still surviving Dahlias


Skies are darkening again. You will stop by Lodhi Gardens for a little while. The heart installation at the Glass House this time of the year is blooming with petunias. Dahlias ring the octagonal Mohammed Shah Tomb sitting on a grassy knoll. Visitors are back in the park. They don’t seem to have played Holi either. Holi is definitely losing its charm.



Holi Day is coming to an end. It is drizzling as you make your way back home away from home. You check your records – it rained in 2020 too. Over the last few years that feeling of a festival day seems to be floundering somewhere. It is as if you are just glad the day is over. The day doesn’t seem to be any different except maybe for some respite from the traffic on the roads. You are too old to be throwing water balloons from the terrace. So how do we bring back the magic of Holi? No easy answers there.

 


Let's go trippingg

The skies are dark and overcast. Below, the streets look inviting; wet and glimmering. Today you will not be able to witness the full moon in the twilight sky. It is okay. The psychedelic LEDs dance underneath the flyovers. You will take whatever is offered.

References:

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/delhi/wilting-hopes-spring-bloom-may-not-last-long-this-season-with-summers-early-entry/articleshow/98283674.cms?from=mdr

https://www.financialexpress.com/photos/business-gallery/3019830/delhi-in-spring-a-riot-of-colour-nature-smiles-at-visitors-as-nehru-park-blooms-with-flowers-see-beautiful-photos/8/

https://www.financialexpress.com/photos/lifestyle-gallery/2990067/as-spring-is-here-delhi-decks-up-with-tulip-see-beautiful-pictures/6/

 

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