Sunday, 19 March 2017

In Search of the Elusive Nirvana – Beach Hopping in India

To a geologist, a beach is a narrow and sloping strip of land along the edge of sea covered with sand, pebbles and remains of sea shells. To a traveller like you from North India, who saw the sea for the first time in your twenties, the meaning of beach is something more simple and esoteric at the same time. To you a beach is a creation by God to offer a slice of nirvana to lesser mortals like us who caught up in their daily grind of life have no chance of ever attaining the elusive moksha. To you just the thought of a secluded beach, with swaying palm and suru trees, the unending rhythmic dance of waves playfully teasing the silken sands even as the sun and clouds create magical light shows in the skies is enough to transport you to this transcendent state where there is only bliss and ecstasy.


Ganpatipule Beach in Konkan Maharashtra

So while God has done His part in creating these pieces of paradise right here on land, it is now up to us to go seek them. And no, finding these pieces of ephemeral beatitude does not involve penance or meditation over long periods of time. All you need to do is to pack your backpack and follow the simple directions given!

The good news is that India’s glorious coastline offers plenty of these sandy jewels guaranteed to deliver you to the blissful state. You can take your pick of beaches from beyond the white marshes of Kutch to the verdant beaches of Konkan; from the ‘discover a new beach every day’ in Northern Kerala to chasing red crabs on the beaches of Andhra Pradesh. In Odisha, let the setting sun bless you just beyond the magnificent Sun Temple of Konark.

Let’s go find our own slice of paradise!

Munakkal Beach – Heart of Spice Route in Kerala
Munakkal Beach at Kodangallur, Kerala
You don't have to go to Fort Kochi to see the Chinese Nets. Here the Periyar river is lined with them as fresh catch is pulled up. Muziris the lost port city comes alive


Anglers braving drenching waves

Chinese fishing nets line up on the either side of Kerala’s longest river Periyar as it tiptoes softly into the Arabian Sea. You are in the ancient lost seaport city of Muziris or the modern day Kodangallur, an hour north of Kochi, that was the heart of Spice Route about 3000 years ago. Walking along the river, you hop aboard the Chinese fishing net and try your hands pulling the ropes to haul up some fresh catch. Just beyond, angry sea waves crash against the tetrapods where anglers brave the drenching towering waves trying to reel in fish.
Sunset at Munakkal Beach, Kerala

On the right, a long stretch of sparkling sand beckons. The lap of waves, the rustle of breeze through the suru trees and the pink sphere of sun dropping over the sea all come together to offer you an unexpected piece of heaven. When serendipity comes calling, drop anchor. You can feel calmness washing over your entire being.  The knots inside seem to dissolve, the edges smoothen and the brows relax. The last rays of sun makes the face glow. The mind has inexplicably come to a rest and feels joyous. You can actually sense your being and listen to the breath. This is salvation. This is Nirvana in God’s Own Country.

Ganpatipule – Beyond the Soaring Cliffs of Konkan

The road going north from Ratnagiri in Maharashtra cuts through hills and soars over cliffs. This stretch of the road provides the most exhilarating coastal drive in the country. As the car negotiates another hair pin bend, it seems you are suspended in the air for a moment. Did you just get airborne? Wait a minute – are those goose bumps on your hands? The road has disappeared on the left. It seems you have risen high against the sky even as the furious waves lash against the vertical cliff working up a fine mist that carries across the road.  India surprises every day - you had never imagined a road snaking high over the cliffs as waves roar below.
The road high on the cliff provides dramatic views of the sea below - Ganpatipule, Maharashtra


Getting off the car, you are provided with dramatic views below all round. The sea seems to be layers of rich grey silk with beautiful white delicate lace sewn lightly on it. This is ecstasy.

Few kilometres ahead, driving through the famous Ratnagiri orchards of Alphonso and Hapus mangoes, you arrive in the temple village of Ganpatipule. Ganpatipule is a village famous for its Swayambhu or self-originated Ganesh Temple. Legend has it that Ganpati angry by the remark made by a local woman moved to Pule or Sand Dune from His original abode of Gule few kms away. After paying obeisance in the temple, you emerge out of the temple and right on the beach.





Ganpatipule Beach is known for its Light Shows over the sea - so find a seat and enjoy
Ganpatipule Beach is famous for its stunning light show in the skies witnessed by only few lucky beings. Today is your lucky day. Walking among the few devotees enjoying the waves, you take a seat on the red sand. The overcast sky has started to open up. Sun peeps through the openings creating dancing spotlights on the waves. The clouds, the streaming lights and the rippling waves create dazzling views. You are in heaven. God had orchestrated this celestial spectacle just for you. You offer a silent prayer.

Om Beach – Gokarna’s Antidote to Goa
Find your Nirvana at Gokarna Beach, Karnataka



If you are tired of the party scene and the boisterous beaches of Goa then head south to Gokarna in Karnataka for some solace and intimacy. Ringed by hills, Gokarna offers a bouquet of beaches each more secluded as if offering their membership to select few lucky souls. 
Om Beach looks like the auspicious symbol ‘Om’. As you descend from the hill to the sands, there is an unmistakable gentle and calm vibe all around. It is as if the nature is whispering to you. Rocky outcrops, some red streaked and some mossy green, provide seats to lie back onto and let the mind go silent. Further down few foreigners are playing a game of frisbee on the spongy sand. If you are lucky you can even see a melange of contorted hippies and sadhus in various yoga poses – everyone in their common pursuit of Moksha.



The gently sloping sands on the two crescent shaped beaches, and hence the name, traipse into the rolling waves. You lie down on the cool sand, soaking in the interplay of the waves and the sand. Like lovers having a tiff and then making up, they turn alternately furious and passionate intertwining and dissolving into each other. The rhythmic dance of sea and sand builds into a crescendo only to convulse into a climax. You become inextricably connected with nature, as if we are one. This is Moksha!

Vishakhapatnam – Life is a Beach

After visiting little known towns, it is time to visit a truly cosmopolitan city. Vishakhapatnam is a pretty city situated on the northern end of Andhra Pradesh surrounded with Eastern Ghats and the Bay of Bengal. In the evening, the excited citizens make a dash to the Ramakrishna Beach soaking up the chowpatty experience with ice-creams and roasted corn. The sea is turbulent so the people keep to the pavement ringing the Beach Road. As the sun goes down, spend few hours sitting on the promenade wall for some people watching.


Kursura Submarine Museum, Vishakhapatnam


Vishakhapatnam has a series of beaches which let you on some history together with sun and sand. The big surprise here is the seemingly huge whale that has apparently washed up on the shore. This is the INS Kursura Submarine Museum, the only one of its kind in the country, where the visitors can see the insides of a submarine. The cramped quarters and the ingenuity in squeezing every inch of the available space will make you marvel at what our armed forces go through to keep us safe.
View of Rushikonda Beach from Thotlakonda, Vishakhapatnam



For a true beach experience, move northwards.  Away from the city, Rushikonda Beach is the preferred choice of backpackers who swim and surf and generally do some old fashioned beach bumming here among the palms and the green hills. Do take out time to drive up to Thotlakonda, a second century Buddhist site sitting atop a wooded hill that provides panoramic views of the beach below and the Dolphin’s Nose, a hillock that looks like a dolphin’s nose.
Bheemunipatnam, Andhra Pradesh

Moving northwards, brings you to Bheemunipatnam, a former Dutch colony and trading post, and which is India’s second oldest municipality. In the neighbourhood of a Dutch Cemetery and other sadly disintegrating heritage buildings, there is a curious looking beachfront. This is the peaceful Bheemili Beach where groups of families play among a mix of colourful statues and sculptures that line up the waterfront.  Looking at a particularly serene looking Lord Buddha’s statue delivers you right at the gates of heaven - Buddham Sharanam Gacchami.


Manginipudi Beach – Going Dutch in Machalipatanam



The Coromandel Coast in Andhra Pradesh has seen glorious days as a governorate of Dutch East India Company. Today you have hard time locating the Dutch Fort in Machalipatanam. History has a way of getting lost in the sands of time.  The forlorn looking structure is seeing some much needed conservation work. This port town has seen trading with the Romans in 3rd century BC to the more recent Portuguese, Dutch and the British. We are making our way north to Manginipudi Beach. Two huge fishes’ cut-outs welcome the visitors.



Manginipudi Beach at Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh


Walking barefoot on the black sand, you are fascinated by the fleeting patterns of ridged sand formed by the receding waters. Families are enjoying the warm evening splashing in the water and keeping the ice cream vendors busy. You have this stretch of tranquil sand and waters to yourself. Well maybe not – these seemingly red flowers on the beach are scampering around as they see you approach. They are the fast moving little red crabs disappearing into their holes. Giggling like a kid you chase after them until you realise this is how happy people are in heaven. You feel like a child again and those carefree happy days are back for a few moments. This is not the life you know. This is actually heaven.

Chandrabhaga Beach – Majestic Splendour of Konark

The overwhelmingly beautiful images of nubile Apsaras, Shailabhanjikas and Nayikas play on your mind as you make your way east from the glorious 13th century Sun Temple of Konark in Odisha. Centuries ago the temple was built on the shore but now the sea has shifted away. The road ambles through Casuarina trees adorned with glowing amber flowers and then seems to run into the cascade of joyous waves. The road turns right here and then runs along the sea all the way to Puri. This is the picturesque Marine Drive that offers the travellers a choice of jumping off the car and revel in the water world of swimming, surfing, snorkelling, and scuba-diving.




Dashing your way from Puri, you arrive just in time to see the sun set over Bay of Bengal, Chandrabhaga Beach, Odisha

The pristine Chandrabhaga Beach is ideal for spending languid hours strolling and taking dip in the waters. Arrive in the evening when the setting sun douses the sea and sand in brilliant gold. The feel of the sea breeze ruffling through the hair, the coolness of the water, the tingling of the sand beneath the toes and the warmth of the last rays of the sun on the face transports you to a state of Utopia. A leisurely walk into the sunset here is like walking on the path to Nirvana.

Pingleshwar Beach – The Milky Kutch Secret

Just before you reach the beach, there is a surprise waiting for you or rather looms over you. Beyond Kothara and the Naliya air base, next to the road are these huge wind mills. Getting off the car you come stand below the enormous fan blades as they ominously slice the air high above. Lie down and look up – the slashing blades and the moving clouds offer an unbeatable experience. It is an eerie feeling as if the Grim Reaper is ready to strike down with his scythe. To recover from the feeling that is both nerve-racking and exhilarating, keep going.



If you drive north from Bhuj in Gujarat you will come to the marvel of white marshes of the Rann but if you drive west, you will be greeted by the most awesome sight of Pingleshwar Beach. A sandy ridge rises just beyond. The air smells of salt and the sound of the waves lapping is tantalisingly close. As you crest the ridge, the sight is staggering. 
Milky surf of Pingleshwar Beach, Kutch, Gujarat
Golden sands and milky frothy surf stretches into the horizon on both sides. Tearing off the shoes you rush down the sparkling sand into the waters. With the ridge behind you, it seems you are cocooned in this reclusive wonderland, where the sea and sand play this sweet symphony that seems to send your weary soul into raptures. This is your own little heaven under blue skies and wispy clouds.


A version of the story appears in the Mar-Apr 2017 issue of Truejetter, the inflight magazine of Truejet Airlines






Thursday, 16 February 2017

Khichan - Kumbh Mela of Demoiselle Cranes

Khichan in Thar Desert plays host to huge flocks of demoiselle cranes arriving from Central Asia. This mesmerising spectacle is something to treasure for a lifetime.

The birds seem to have been waiting for you all morning. You have been advised to come here early in the morning for the congregation. But Khichan is in middle of nowhere and so justifiably you arrive here in the middle of the day. The action is supposed to happen in early mornings and evenings. You are not expecting a lot. Only recently, you have started to notice the birds around you. A month earlier, all across Gujarat, you have seen these beautiful large birds like pelicans, painted storks and demoiselle cranes feeding in the fields, poking in ponds and flying low over the waters of Rann. You are doing the Great Thar Road Trip and Khichan conveniently falls midway between Bikaner and Jaisalmer. Today you are on your way to see dancing camels in Jaisalmer Desert Festival. Khichan in Thar Desert plays host to huge flocks of Demoiselle Cranes arriving from Central Asia. You need to go investigate; dancing camels will have to wait.
The Demoiselle Cranes of Khichan
A bus full of western tourists has just arrived in the village of Khichan, a few kilometres ahead of Phalodi. Like the other tourists you are also trying to figure out what next. The parking lot attendant advises you to climb the mound just ahead. The setting at Khichan seems to have been designed for full effect. As you crest the hillock, the spectacle unfolds before your disbelieving eyes in a shallow bowl like valley below. Surrounding a pond, there are thousands of Demoiselle Cranes. Yes you have seen packed penguin settlements and stampeding wildebeests on TV but never anything like this in front of your eyes. You don’t like to keep anyone waiting but here it seems you had entire colony of Demoiselle Cranes waiting for you.

Unbelieveable Sights of Khichan
The Kumbh Mela of Demoiselle Cranes at Khichan, Rajasthan
Excitedly you clamber down to the water body. Most of the birds are on the other side of the pond. And the birds are all taking at the same time. So while in Kutch the mind goes silent listening to the emptiness of Rann doused in pink of a setting sun, here in Khichan, the mind goes quiet making sense of thousands of cranes trumpeting excitedly. There is constant motion and activity - wings flutter, beaks are dipped into water, some dance while some preen. A dog and some cows move through the ranks. In response, entire columns move in unison like ripples on a grey sea. The view is hypnotic – the spectacle of feathery grey, the constant high-pitched loud trumpeting and the beauty of the cranes.
The Beautiful Damsel of Khichan
The cranes are beautiful and graceful like the lasses they are named after. The name demoiselle is derived from the French word dameisele which means damsel or young girl. Everything about the cranes is beautiful, measured and graceful. They have long slender necks with white ear tufts. The fore-neck is dark while the light grey of neck extends to an attractive shiny bluish-grey plume. Bright red eyes are inquisitive as they strut like pretty damsels. 




Time to take to the skies
The chatter is changing pitch. There is some expectancy building up. Signals are transmitted through the congregation. Feathers start flapping. And then as if on cue, entire entourages of birds lift into the skies, like a soaring Mexican wave. The sight of thousands of birds taking off at once creates a fantastic show. It seems that thunder claps are rolling over the waters creating ripples. The sound and the spectacle are both dramatic and dazzling. The cranes circle over you even as more cranes take off. For few minutes it seems the feathers have obscured the sun that came out reluctantly from the foggy skies. All you can do is watch the sky spellbound. You cannot imagine your good fortune. First the cranes wait for you and then they treat you to this extravaganza in the skies. Apparently, after the feeding session of morning, the birds gather around the water bodies only to fly away in the afternoon. They will spend the night on the dunes standing on one leg and will return in the morning.




The story of how inhabitants of frozen steppes in Mongolia and Eurasia and beyond found a loving home in Thar Desert, thousands of miles away, goes back to the seventies when Ratanlal Maloo and his wife, residents of Kichna village, began feeding birds. Initially, few demoiselle cranes joined the pigeons and other local birds. Over the years, as stories of benevolent Ratanlal’s lavish feast started doing rounds of steppes, the number of cranes arriving in Kichna grew rapidly to thousands. The cranes – called Kurja locally - would start coming by August and leave in March. The cranes are fed in chugga-ghar or feeding-house where, during peak months, fifty bags of jowar weighing fifty kgs each are offered to the cranes daily.  The cost is borne by individuals, village panchayat and government agencies.

The flight of Demoiselle Cranes at Khichan, Rajasthan
The deafening sound has receded. The pond is almost empty now. The cranes turn into tiny dots as they rise high into the stratosphere. The flying regime is probably followed on a daily basis designed to provide lessons to the young members and to keep everyone else fit for the impending long haul back home.



The few hours watching the cranes have been pure joy. It is actually a combination of God’s miracle and large heartedness of a small desert village that has provided these moments of bliss. Every year the birds travel thousands of miles, crossing the mighty Himalayas, fighting hunger, disease and predators to come to a village in India’s Thar Desert. The village residents welcome them, feed them and look after them for months while expecting nothing in return. It is as if God had intended all beings the freedom to move about a planet that belongs to everyone – a planet where no passports are needed and no boundaries exist. Just like the cranes, humans too could move across the world without restrictions and find love wherever they go. Now that would not need a miracle. It would be something that was always meant to be.


A version of the story appeared in the February 2017 issue of Rail Bandhu, the on-board magazine of Indian Railways

Rail Bandhu Feb 2017


Getting There:
Khichan is four kms away from Phalodi while Phalodi is 400 kms from Jaipur and 170 kms from Jaisalmer in Rajasthan.
Traveller Tips:
  • Khichan can be visited when travelling from Bikaner to Jaisalmer
  • It is recommended that bird lovers stay overnight in Khichan to witness the early morning feeding sessions in the Chugga Ghar
  • Khichan, supposedly has ornate havelis with even more eyepoppingly ornate doors – do look for them!
Related Links:

Sunday, 12 February 2017

Winter Surprises - Explore the Misty Layers of Delhi

Every season gives us a different reason to love Delhi. On a winter morning as the fog rolls in even the adorably brash and unruly Delhiites go quiet and contemplative on their commute to offices. Later the soft glow of the afternoon wraps you intimately in a warm embrace. Cocooned snugly in woolly layers it is time to uncover Delhi’s surprises hidden in misty layers of time.


The Majestic Floss Silk Trees that bloom in October - at Shanti Path, Chanakya Puri, New Delhi


Culture Bingeing at Mandi House
The National School of Drama, Bahawalpur House, Mandi House, New Delhi




An artist performing the whirling Sufi dervish dance during Bharat Rang Mahotsav at NSD





Performances by International artists as part of Delhi International Arts Festival (DIAF)
Just as the Floss Silk trees burst into pink blossoms, Delhi’s cultural scene comes alive in winters. Beautiful people draped in elegant shawls and bandhgalas make their way to the cultural epicentre of Mandi House area with its eclectic mix of National School of Drama, Triveni Kala Sangam, Rabindra Bhawan, Kamani Auditorium and Shri Ram Centre that offer a range of performing arts like dance, music and theatre. Walk around the roundabout soaking in the vibe as aspiring actors discuss nuances of Chekhov’s ‘The Cherry Orchard’ over steaming cups of tea at the roadside stalls.  The evening comes to a perfect end as you walk in the misty night to the Bengali Market for some mouth-watering fare of chane bhaturey, gajar-ka-halwa and gazak.

Delhi War Cemetery

Delhi War Cemetery in Delhi Cantt

Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) run Delhi War Cemetery


Away from the din of Ring Road beyond the entanglement of clover Dhaula Kuan and metro lines, you enter the urban oasis of Delhi Cantonment. Cantonment areas across India have this special vibe where air seems to whisper among the colonial style buildings. An imposing sandstone entrance brings you to the Delhi War Cemetery run by UK’s Commonwealth War Graves. Among the impeccably manicured lawns lie the remains of fallen soldiers who laid their lives in the two world wars fighting for British Commonwealth. Walking among the rows of tombstones etched with heart-wrenching epithets of young men, you realise the futility of war and the hurt that it wreaks. The peaceful surroundings amidst flowers is hopefully providing some balm to the anguished souls.


Mehrauli Archaeological Park


Quli Khan Tomb or Dilkusha at Mehrauli Archaeological Park





Delhi's prettiest baoli Rajon ki Baoli


The Jewel Box called Jamali Kamali Tomb
In the shadow of Qutub Minar, a sprawling wooded park encapsulates Delhi’s history from Lalkot - Delhi’s First City - to the Slave Dynasty who made Mehrauli Delhi’s Second City to Lodhis, Mughals and to the British times. Choose a sunny afternoon to walk through the trails of Mehrauli Archaeological Park and discover gems like Balban’s Tomb, India’s first building with true arches. Step into the exquisite Jamali Kamali Tomb and get dazzled by its jewel box like interiors. Look down four levels of Delhi’s prettiest stepwell Rajon ki Baoli. Climb up the stairs from the boathouse to Dilkusha, East India Company’s Thomas Metcalfe’s monsoon residence built out of a Mughal tomb. Just ahead Qutb Minar rises – a sight only seen by taking the path less travelled.

The Lutyens’ Delhi







Teen Murti roundabout where you played hide and seek in the summer holidays!


Shanti Path in the Diplomatic Enclave of New Delhi - road you took on the way to your school



The leafy boulevards of Lutyens Delhi
New Delhi is the prettiest in the winters. To appreciate the beauty of perhaps the most stunning urban enclave in the country take a drive in Lutyens’ Delhi - Delhi’s Eighth City - starting from India Gate as you make your way through the tree-lined boulevards with sprawling bungalows in the power centre of the country. Stop on the way to be delighted by the roundabouts that have burst into a riot of colours as flowers of all shape and colours bloom. From Teen Murti turn towards Diplomatic Enclave housing the world’s embassies and High Commissions. A picnic on the grass lawns of Shanti Path or Nehru Park is highly recommended under sunny blue skies.


National Gandhi Museum








National Gandhi Museum near Rajghat, New Delhi
While busloads of tourists make their way to Gandhiji’s samadhi Rajghat, just across the road lies the National Gandhi Museum that is largely overlooked. Walk through the grounds where Sabarmati Ashram has been recreated and peer into Hriday Kunj where Gandhiji lived his simple life. Inside the museum building traverse the incredible journey of the man who gave up his life to give us our freedom. His presence is everywhere - pick up the phones in the lobby and listen to him speak, look with awe at the walking stick he used during the epic Dandi March. The poignant Martyrdom Gallery has Gandhiji’s blood stained clothes from that fateful January day. Not every winter morning in Delhi is beautiful.

Mystical Evenings at Nizamuddin


The lit up Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya Dargah


Nizami Bandhu singing Qawwalis on Thursday evenings at Niamuddin Dargah

Come Thursday evening and you are transported to the times of Tughlaqabad - Delhi’s Fourth City – when a Sufi Saint stood upto a Sultan. Beyond Lodhi Gardens is the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. You make your way deep into the alleys of mediaeval Ghiyaspur steeped in history now called Nizamuddin Basti fragrant with roses and sparkling with chadars. In the courtyard between the sanctum and Amir Khusrao’s Tomb, Nizami Brothers render full-throated qawwalis making the devotees go delirious in mystic trance. Hazrat Saheb loves this devotion of Dilliwallas. He loves us like he has over the past 700 years. 


Little Tibet in Majnu ka Tilla









Tibetan Colony at Majnu ka Tilla in New Delhi

Scores of butter lamps flicker. Inside the temple, young monks dressed in flowing maroon sanghatis intone mantras. From the walls Buddha smiles benignly. Rosy faced kids chased by smiling mothers run through the courtyard. Just a few steps from the busy Outer Ring Road at Majnu Ka Tilla, you have stepped into a different world. The Tibetan Colony is Delhi’s own Dharamsala where Tibetans fleeing from Lhasa first settled. Experience Little Tibet’s vibe redolent of an innocent life left behind. Sample Tibetan food that gave Delhi its favourite snack, the Momo! Walk the winding lanes where sweet melancholia of lost homeland echoes along with the zeal to create a new one.


Paharganj – On the Hippie Trail









Neon-lit Dev D Nights of Paharganj
The tall neon sign boards flanking both sides of the lane inside Ram Nagar turn Paharganj into a seemingly Las Vegas strip. Walking distance from New Delhi Railway Station, Paharganj is hub for hotels of all budgets catering to everyone from well-heeled to backpackers and overnight travellers. Paharganj haven for hippies in the seventies burst into prominence after the psychedelic antics of modern day Dev D in the eponymous movie. After finding a hotel room, stroll through the maze for clothes, international cuisines from sushi to hummus and hang out at libraries exchanging old books. Settle down with a beverage on the open terrace of Café Club India and let the unpretentious vibe of Paharganj wash over you.


Ghalib’s Last Ghazal




Ghalib Haveli in Ballimaran, Chandni Chowk, Delhi
It is twilight of Mughal Empire when Delhi gets frequently plundered and the British power is on the rise. To beat stress Delhiites take to shayari and ghazals. Zauq, Meer and Momin become household names. In Delhi’s Seventh City of Shahjahanabad, turn into Ballimaran beyond Sunheri Masjid. As you approach the haveli in Gali Qasim Jan, couplets waft in the chilly night. This is the house of Delhi’s most famous poet and its literary historian, Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib. Today, a part of the haveli has been restored exhibiting his books and hand written poems. Ghalib, the delhiwalla dil se and synonymous with Delhi’s culture died lamenting his unrequited love for Delhi. Come and show some love to Ghalib - he just might compose a new ghazal.


Bhuli Bhatyari Mahal

For some heebie jeebies, visit the almost spooky Bhuli Bhatyari Mahal near Jhandewalan, New Delhi








Before the Ansals and DLF, Feroz Shah Tughlaq was the original builder of Delhi as he built Ferozabad - Delhi’s Fifth City, several mosques, a madrassa on the banks of Hauz Khas, brought Ashokan Pillars from Ambala and Meerut and hunting lodges in the forest ridges of Delhi. As you get off the metro at Jhandewalan, walk past the huge Hanuman statue and then turn into the street that rises into the ridge. Here strange looking fortifications guard the Bhuli Bhatiyari, a supposedly haunted monument. Walk in the barren interiors and try not getting spooked as shadows of bare branches play tricks on the walls.


Ishq-e-Dilli at Purana Qila

Pandavs and Kauravs Rolling the Dice in Delhi's best Light and Sound Show: Ishq-e-Dilli at Purana Qila, New Delhi











Mangal Pandey during India's First War of Independence
As the skies darken and the evening turns chilly, you make your way into Purana Qila or Shergarh - Delhi’s Sixth City – past the double storeyed Bada Darwaza. This is probably the site of Indraprastha, the mythological capital of Pandavas. On the left the lone Sher Mandal stands silhouetted where Humayun tumbled to his death. Up ahead is the iconic Humayun Darwaza with its two canopies that forms the backdrop of the most incredible Sound and Light show ‘Ishq-e-Dilli.’ As the laser lights dance, songs and commentary takes the viewer through Delhi’s 5000 year old fascinating history.



Let my favourite city keep blooming
For us mere mortals, every season heralds another year of being closer to the end but Delhi grows prettier and younger every year. Despite repeated invasions and sackings, Delhi has lived on with successive rulers building their own cities. On a January morning as the soft sun turns the Ashok Pillar golden at Feroze Shah Kotla, you fall in love once again with the city you were born in and which will live on long after you are gone.

A version of the story appeared in the February 2017 issue of Rail Bandhu, the on-board magazine of Indian Railways. The magazine is available in Shatabdi, Rajdhani, Duranto and Gatiman Express trains













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