The Great Konkan Run – Day
17: Payyanur, Taliparamba,
home of Sree Rajarajeswara Temple, Snake Park, St Angelo Fort, Peralassery
Temple, Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach, Thallassery Fort, Mahe, Kozhikode
Today
will be a blockbuster day – you will see colourful buses, iconic Ambassadors,
Snake Park, two forts, temples, the biggest pushkarni, you will drive on a
beach, step out of Kerala for few kms and reach the place where Vasco landed.
 |
| Sri Subramanya Temple in Peralassery, Kannur, Kerala |
 |
| The Colourful Buses of Kannur |
The Kerala trip is just
picking up steam. You saw and experienced a lot yesterday and now you do wish
you could go back and spend some more time there. But travel has its rules and
you got to live by them. This is Kerala and when you are on the road new
surprises will keep coming. Today is the second day in Kerala and you have
already in the second district of Kannur. The plan is working so far.
 |
| The Puttu Breakfast of Kerala |
 |
| Pathimugam soaked water drink |
 |
| Streets of Payannur |
 |
| LuLu Land |
The morning starts with a late
and big breakfast. Trying to find a place for lunch is both unproductive and
time-consuming activity when you have a long list to cover today. This is
another rule in your travel commandments. Never waste time on lunches. So, it
is chholey chawal to start the day with. Ok, the rice does look different - This
is Puttu, the Kerala breakfast dish. The rice is ground and steamed into these
cylindrical portions. Now that you notice, the warm water they have served has
a pink hue. No this is not Roohafza. Pathimugam or Indian Red Wood soaked in
water has medicinal uses for kidney disorders, skin diseases, cholesterol and
diabetes. See even before you get those ayurvedic spa treatment, Kerala is
already good for you.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The
Ambassadors of Payyanur
Just outside the hotel you
see a wonderful sight that has mostly disappeared from the country. A fleet of
white Ambassadors line up on the pavement. Along with Kolkata, it seems Kerala
is the last outpost of this old warhorse of mobility. A long time ago you used
to sell these iconic cars when it wasn’t just the government and taxi owners
but individuals and families too who used to buy them. Now, Delhi has very few
of them left and even the Black and Yellow Taxi segment has moved on to other
brands. We owned an ambassador which Dad had bought after his retirement. On
Delhi roads, in the pre-SUV days, Ambassador was the lord of the roads. Only
problem was getting it started on cold mornings. The dynamo for the self-start
was a problem until you replaced it with an alternator.
The Ambassador was like
Moses on Red Sea of Marutis. They would just scatter around to let the Big Dog
pass. In winters, the bench driver seat that felt like a sofa was the best
place to be as the warm air from the engine made the uninsulated cabin cosy. In
summers, it was hell and by the time you drove 100 kms to the dealership, you
were literally drenched in sweat. It was with heavy heart that you parted with
the car.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You are making your way to
Sree Raja Rajeswara Temple from Payannur on another monsoon day as the clouds intermittently
send down drizzle. Crossing the River Kuppam, you enter Taliparamba, home of
Sree Rajarajeswara Temple, dedicated to Emperor of Emperors, Lord Shiva. It is
believed Ram came here on his way back from Lanka to offer prayers to Shiv.
 |
| The Sree Raja Rajeswara Temple in Taliparamba |
 |
| The demolished remains of laterite gopuram of Sri Rajarajeshwara Temple |
You are seeing this for the
first time. Remains of an apparently huge gopuram built of laterite stone stand
guard as you enter the temple complex. On the other side of the peninsula these
gopurams are lofty kaleidoscope of colours and figures. The surviving façade of
the base has pilasters sculpted in the laterite. Unlike granite, laterite stone
because of its porosity is not the ideal stone for carving or sculpting. Moss
and fern grows out of the crevices. Places where our Delhiite friends could not
reach, locals like Tipu Sultan did their job. He is credited with pulling down
these two seven-storeyed gopuras.
 |
| First time you are seeing some laterite designs - facade of gopuram |
The complex has several
shrines with the traditional pyramidal roofs made of terracotta tiles and
copper sheets. Going past the gopuram you arrive at the entrance of the
compound wall or the Nalambalam. The walls are covered with niches where
earthen lamps are lit. The sight would be something during festivals when the
entire walls of the nalambalam would glow with thousands of diyas.
 |
| The No 'Bermudas' or 'Three Fourths' instruction! |
There are clear
instructions that ‘Bermudas’ or ‘Three-Fourths’ are not allowed inside the
sanctum. Bummer. You have been on the road for more than fifteen days. With the
beard you look like a famished Robinson Crusoe. You don’t want the fellow
devotees to see you shirtless. They just might quarantine you in the kitchen
until your skeleton has been covered with some flesh.
There is quite a crowd
inside on a Saturday. Along with some colourful fishes in aquariums there are a
few mugger crocodiles; their snarling jaws frozen. The Indian Rock Python has
curled up motionless. The group of Green Whip Snakes are the most lively of all
in this park, while the Trinkets probably nap and the Indian Kraits seem to have
lost all their excitement in the rising heat.
 |
| Live demp at the Snake Park in Parassinikadavu |
The most fun part of the
outing is the Romanesque amphitheatre dug into the ground that has a gladiator
fighting lions – no, apparently playing with some hissing snakes. Talking about
being in a pit full of cobras. The guy is knowledgeable as he works the crowd into
going ohhh ohhh and working the snakes as they go hisss hisss and trying to
tell the gathered people that snakes are not that bad at all and instead keep
our farmland free of pests.
 |
| Pagoda Flower |
 |
| The favourite snack of snakes |
Arriving in Cannannore Cantonment, you make your way to the fort. Just like
Bekal Fort, St Angelo Fort is again impeccably maintained by Kerala ASI with
perfect signage. Sun has come out and it is sweltering making the colourful
crowd that has assembled here duck under the gateways and into these cool horse
stables while others take refuge under these magnificent trees in the complex.
 |
| Idyllic setting of St. Angelo Fort |
Just like the Bekal Fort,
this fort too sits high atop a cliff overlooking the picturesque Mappila Bay,
protected by sea on three sides. The fort initially built by the Portuguese in
the aftermath of Vasco da Gama’s landing in nearby Calicut, was taken over by the
Dutch and later by British. As in any fort, the construction takes place over
the centuries with every successor adding features to the fort.
Water-colour
painting of the entrance to the fort at Kannur by Thomas Cussans (1796-1870).
Cussans served in the Madras artillery in 1814, then the Horse Brigade from
1817 to 1829. This is one of 19 drawings (22 folios) of scenes in Mumbai
(Bombay) and the south of India together with a few miscellaneous sketches
taken between 1817 and c.1822. Inscribed on the cover of the album is: 'Thos
Cussans Lt. Madras Artillery. Janry 1817'; and on the title page: 'Thos
Cussans, July 30th, 1817'
Kannur (Cannanore) is situated on a headland overlooking a picturesque bay in
Kerala, in the south of India. Vasco da Gama (1460-1524) the Portuguese
explorer who discovered an ocean route from Portugal to the East came to this
area in 1498 and it subsequently became an important trading station. The fort
of St. Angelo was constructed in 1505 by the first Portuguese Viceroy Don
Francisco De Almeda with the consent of the ruling Kolathiri Raja. In 1656 the
Dutch expelled the Portuguese and subsequently sold the town to a Moplah family
(a community of Arab descent) who claimed sovereignty over the Laccadive
Islands, a group of coral reefs and islands off the coast of Kerala. Moplah
rule was terminated by the British who attacked and captured Kannur in 1790 and
it became their most important military base in the south of India. The
barracks, arsenal, cannons and the ruins of a chapel still stand in the fort as
a testimony to its glorious history.
 |
| Map of St Angelo Fort in Kannur |
 |
| Look at those turrets on top of the walls |
Probably, it is a Saturday
and there is quite a crowd with men in their airy lungis that can be raised to regulate
the temperature, the woman can’t let the hot sun bother them in their heavy
sarees. College and school kids make their mandatory presence while you disturb
a couple as you try to click this never seen before corner turret. The sea though not as
untamed as Bekal, provides a perfect background even as skyscrapers threaten to
invade this lovely piece of tranquility. Kerala ASI is doing some wonderful
work with their upkeep of their heritage.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Smart Clothing
We have been talking of
Smart Clothing for years now. Clothes which among other things will regulate
the body temperature. Kerala, always on the forefront of most metrics, always had
this Smart Clothing and it is called Dhoti. The beloved traditional dress is
also called Lungi or Mundu. In the cool mornings, the dhoti stays down around
the ankles. As sun comes up and it gets hot, the wearer with a flourish and in
a single action turns the dhoti into a Bermuda that allows air circulation and
cools down the area. If it is stuffy the action can be repeated several times
bringing down the humidity several notches.
The dhoti has several other
advantages too. Chicks love men looking cool in dhotis apparent from the scenes
you witnessed in the forts. Dhotis get you automatic admission into temples
while the temples have clear instructions not allowing dweebs inside wearing
three-fourths. Just a flick of hands turns your outfit from informal to formal
and back to informal at warp speed. The pouch formed in the front in the uplifted
position can be used to carry groceries or an evening beverage.
Lungi or Dhoti, The most versatile
clothing, St Angelo Fort, Kannur, Kerala
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 |
| The modern mosques in Kerala are all eye-catching and have designs that are typical to Kerala |
Kerala has been surprising
you with the stepwells or the pushkarnis. Today, Rajasthan & Gujarat will
have serious competition. From the sea, you are moving a little inland to the
town of Peralassery, home to Sri Subramanya Temple. The temple is closed when
you reach in the afternoon. But there is something here, in fact something very
huge, to interest you. Sprawling in front of the temple is Kerala’s largest
stepwell looking brilliant in its monsoon fresh green clothing.
 |
| Sri Subramanya Temple of Peralassery |
The geometric pattern of
the steps on the descending levels remind you of the Abhaneri’s Chand Baori and
Amer’s Panna Meena Baori. You have always associated baoris and pushkarnis with
north and rain deficient regions. The presence of baoris here in Kerala and if
their design was inspired by their northern counterparts would be an
interesting subject to delve into. What you can surmise is that though this is
Konkan with plenty of rains but the presence of rock means the water runs off
and therefore there was a need to store water especially in forts and in temples
that would fulfil the needs of the village and the devotees. Sree Rajarajeswara
Temple too had a small tank that you failed to see.
 |
| Sri Subramanya Temple in Peralassery with the huge Stepwell |
 |
| Chand Panna Meena Modhera too are turning green; with Envy |
The temple’s
presiding deity is Kartikeya who they say lived in the pond as a five-headed
serpent. North hardly has any temples dedicated to Shiv’s other son Kartikeya.
So, the deity is a snake and is offered eggs. And, like most places, this
temple too was visited by Ram and Lakshman as they went around looking for Sita.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Colourful Buses of Kannur
First there were few on the roads. Then as you make your way towards Kannur, they start lighting up the roads everywhere. The buses of Kannur are moving canvasses, spreading colour and cheer one bus and one bus stop at a time. This is like a fairyland where the roads are these streaks of lights as seen in the night-time long exposure shots. They are like the rainbow bubbles floating on the roads of Kannur.
 |
| The Spidermobile |
 |
| The hard working providers of the land |
There are no subtle shades. The more shocking the shade, the better. The designs are varied; some are abstract, one has this unicorn like horse, the other has farming scenes, one seems to be the Spidermobile; while others have birds, flowers, kids and butterflies. The bus stand is like a painting exhibition with you moving from one exhibit to another and simply getting blown off.
And now that you are in town, they have decided to honour you with a portrait of you holding a Nikon camera. It might be the hardest to speak to Keralites since they speak neither English or Hindi but sure they have their heart in the right place.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 |
| Who wants to live in that house? |
 |
| The Arakkal Museum is dedicated to Kerala's only Muslim royal family |
It is time to come back to
the sea and some sand and yes, some driving on the beach. You are not too big a
fan of the concept but since Muzhappilangad is Kerala’s only drive-in beach, you need to
take a spin on the beach, if just for the experience. Roll down the windows,
speed up and let the breeze gush in. If you feel like it, go splashing into the water.
 |
| Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach in Kannur, Kerala |
Mr India of Starfishes does the Disappearing Act
Once the driving is done it
is time to feel the cool sand tickle your toes and watch starfish motionlessly
dig into the sand trying to hide away from predators.
 |
| Joy in any language |
 |
| First time seen entrance gate design - Tellicherry Fort |
 |
| Entry Gate of the Tellicherry Fort looking East |
Tallicherry Fort, in the
modern Thalissery town, is a miniature replica of St Angelo Fort with
corresponding features though it has a larger lighthouse and an interesting
main gate where you climb this flight of steps built into the façade of the
fort with colourful images on top, probably of saints. For a change, the
British built the fort instead of wresting it from the Dutch. With the founding
of this fort in 1708, Tellicherry became a major trading centre for pepper,
cardamom and timber.
Etching of Tellicherry by G. Van der Gucht published in 1736 after a painting by George Lambert (1710-1765) and Samuel Scott (1703-1772). Tellicherry is situated south of Cannanore in Kerala. It was founded in 1683 by the East India Company and became the major trading centre for pepper and cardamom in India. Trade was controlled from the fort in the town, which was built by the British in 1708.
Thalassery is the place
where cricket was first played in India. The sport was introduced by Wellesley for
the soldiers garrisoned in the Tellicherry Fort. India's first cricket club too was set here in Thalassery. It is quite probable that
Lagaan like scenes were played out, as British soldiers and locals played
cricket on the beaches of the town.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Beautiful People of Kerala
There is possibly no place in India that is as multicultural as Kerala.
Most foreign religions first landed here. In one sweep of eye you can see the
different shrines co-exisiting peacefully like they did for centuries. And here
in one frame you can see saris, habits worn by nuns, jeans, salwar kameez, and
hijab!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just like the Shakti
Peeths, Puducherry is also scattered around the peninsula. You spent one not so
pleasant day locked up in a hotel in Puducherry some time back but would want
to go back and explore the French quarters and Auroville. You have great
memories of Yanam, south of Kakinada in Andhra Pradesh where you walked the
riverfront and took a boat ride on River Krishna one hot evening though you
could not find any French remnants during those few hours.
 |
| On the banks of Mayyazhi Puzha in Mahe, Puducherry |
 |
| Map of Mahe, Puducherry |
 |
| The proof that you were in Mahe, Puducherry |
You have entered the third
district of Puducherry south of Thalassery. You don’t expect to see any French
style mansions here. Seeing the traffic cop with the French red cap is enough
for you. You are as excited when you saw that red cap in Puducherry for the
first time. You will just spend a few minutes in this now deserted Puducherry Tourist Development Corporation's Seagulls Mayazzhi Sports Complex sitting under a canopy on the banks of the Mayyazhi Puzha. Oh yes, the remaining fourth district of Puducherry is Karaikal, some 130 kms south of Puducherry.
It is night when you reach
Kozhikode.
The journey continues.
Day's Progress
Route Taken: Payyanur to Taliparamba, home of Sree Rajarajeswara Temple, Snake Park in Parassinikkadavu, St Angelo Fort, Peralassery Temple, Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach to Thallassery Fort, Mahe, and night stay at Kozhikode
References
Puttu Breakfast
The Rose tinted warm water
drink
Kolathunadu – Kingdom of
Cannanore or Kannur. One of the four kingdoms of Malabar. Other three are Zamorin
of Calicut, Cochin and Quilon
King of Kolathunadu
Why Lungi is the Best!
Peralassery Sri Subramanya Temple
If you liked the blogpost then
Enjoyed this wonderfully curated tour , Nirdesh . Loved that you have documented all the little native habits and quirks with such warmth and humor !
ReplyDeleteA morning well spent ❤️ -
- Vidya M
Thanks much V! Hope you are travelling well and of course your documentation is out of this world - hope to hear from you soon!
Delete