Sunday, 19 April 2020

In the Gir Country – Part II

The Great Gujarat Road Odyssey – Day 15: Diu, Una & Gir Forest

Chapter 1 – Republic Day Parade in Diu

Jallandhar Beach in Diu

Diu: Jalandhar Beach


The eroded rock shelf on the beaches is common in these parts of Gujarat and Diu - Jalandhar Beach

In mythology, Diu was called Jallandharkshtra because a demon-king named Jallandhar lived here who was killed by Lord Vishnu

Diu - Fun on Arabian Sea!

India celebrates her Republic Day today and you are back at Jallandhar Beach to spend some relaxing moments taking in the sea fresh breeze. It is a perfect winter morning with sun sea and sand. Ok there is not much sand where you are walking. You have been seeing this eroded rock shelf, first at Porbandar Chowpatty and now here in Diu. It is probably the limestone that was quarried from the south end of the island here to construct the Diu Fort. Out in the middle of the sea you can make out an outcrop.  It is beautiful here and you can walk on the beach all day but there is so much to see.


Republic Day Parade at Zampa Gateway in Diu



Stylin Dudes of Diu




You are back at the Zampa Gateway just in time to see school kids emerge out of the gateway, smartly dressed for the Republic Day Parade. These totally unexpected events are the best part of road trips. As the kids move away, the town falls silent again. Coming to Diu from the loud, dusty and crowded Gujarat, it is just the antidote to recoup and recover. But you are going back into Gujarat. A local contact will take you inside Gir Forest!


Dr Shamji Bridge connecting Diu to Gujrat mainland


The Monk Boats at Ghoghla village

Ghoghla Village of Diu



Just beyond the bridge in Ghoghola village, there is a sight that is surreal and indescribable. On this wide expanse of blue water that seems to merge with the sky above, there are these colourful boats apparently placed randomly by an unseen hand. Usually, the boats are moored to the jetties as they strain at their fetters. The boats sit unmoving on the water as if they are finally free of all worldly desire. This one frame conveys the Diu feeling – you are in this zone, calm and free of all encumbrances.






The boats actually look like meditating monks. It seems the monks have collectively calmed the swirl of thoughts; and the world, the water and the skies have all been been stilled and you can now actually sense your breath and mind.  


African Hoka Palms in Una





On the way to Una, you see even grander African Hoka Palms. While the palms you saw so far would have a single trunk and the branching happening on the top, here the palms seem like unfurling into multi branches right from the ground like a lotus palm.

Chapter 2 – Jain Teerth in Una

The town looks like walled with few heritage havelis - Una in Gujarat

Una: Ajhara Parshavnath Teerth

Shri Una Teerth

Jain Derasar - Una in Gujarat

Before going to Gir, you will visit the Jain Ajahara Parshavnath Teerth in Una in the village called Ajar. The temple has reportedly a 1000 year old idol. Jain pilgrimage places have the biggest surprise quotient across India. You have found them in the unlikeliest of places and the best part is the great food they always offer. And in architecture value you always find something interesting. The Teerth has a huge complex with dormitories and this imposing carved stone temple.   



Chapter 3 – Back in Gir





In Jamavala, inside Gir Territory you meet the local contact Chandubhai who will accompany you inside Gir Forest. After an awesome Gujarati meal (Gujarati folks are the best!) at Chandhubhai’s house, we set out towards Banej Temple inside Gir forest. And if we are lucky we could even see a lion. But seeing the reaction of people who had taken those gypsy rides inside the forest few days ago, you will be really surprised if you do get to see anyone from the extended cat family.











It does feel like driving through Serengeti on this dirt track. It is January and the deciduous forest is absolutely dry and brown. You can see burnt patches of grass. Maybe the forest guards light up the grass intentionally in a controlled environment to avert any major catastrophe. There are plenty of chitals and again looking at them they don’t seem to be in mortal danger. Probably this area too has been cleaned up of all cats.




We are making our way to Banej Temple somewhere in the middle of the forest and there is a rocky stream on the way and you are scared of hitting something on the underbody and being stuck in the middle of the jungle but Chandu bhai is a pro and he manoeuvres the vehicle effortlessly even as you walk the stretch to the temple. You are not sure if this particular building is the Banej Temple but they say that Banej is the only polling booth that has one vote – of the priest.


Banej Temple, Gir, Gujarat




At the Banej Temple site, Nilgais and peacocks loiter around in big numbers. Yes, still no sign of the big cats. Back in Jamvala, it seems Gir is full of villages. Not sure if this is co-existence or humans encroaching in the cats’ territories. Lions are known to carry off cows from the villages but there is no heartburn amongst the villagers. The villagers know they have to give and take if they want to live within the National Park, the only habitat of the Asiatic lions. You thank Chandu bhai and his family and return to Una where you are holed up for the night.

Chapter 4 – Festa De Diu Redux

Festa De Diu: Twice The Fun

Raaga Trippin at the Festa De Diu




Festa De Diu: Hope to be back soon





Fort Road Seafront in Diu

It has been a long day. But just 20 kms to the south there is magic happening. You can’t resist and you are back at the Nagao Beach for another night of Festa De Diu and driving around in the night on those now dreamy and lazy roads. As you enter Diu, you are stopped for the third time in this trip at the police picket point.

There are few places that keep calling you back. And then there are places you keep daydreaming of. There are places where you can recall every hour of being there. And then there are places you are not sure if you ever visited and are just a dreamy blur. Maybe there is something about the place itself, or some defined standout moment that connects to it. It is like a song that you heard for the first time at a particular moment in your life and everytime you hear that song, it always brings back that moment. 

There are places that you have been dying to see and there are some places that just happen and there are places that you have no idea of what to expect and then you fall in love with them. The landscape of Hampi, the boat ride to Hope Island in Kakinada, the monsoon dazzled vegetation of Ratnagiri, those meadowy villages off Manali, the cathedral run in Velha Goa, the always in love sweetheart Chanderi, fragrant pine hills of Kasauli, the beauty pageant of Khichan are among some places that you have fallen in love. To some you have gone back as love flared up while with others you enjoy a long-distance relationship.

You had no idea what to expect in Diu and within hours you are smitten with the petite beauty. Diu is like the combustible long lost love; one look and the love reignited spontaneously. The only regret: you should have spent another day in the delightful laidback Portuguese outpost. No use kicking yourself now. You will certainly come back.


The journey continues.


Day's Stats
  • Route Taken – Diu to Una to Paschim Gir Forest and back to Diu
  • Distance covered today – 210 kms
  • Total Distance covered so far - 3390 kms 



References



Day 1 - Viratnagar
Day 2 - 
Pushkar
Day 3 - 
Vadnagar
Day 4 – Siddhpur
Day 5 - Dholavira
Day 6 - Lakhpat
Day 7 - Narayan Sarovar
Day 8 – Jamnagar
Day 9 – Bet Dwarka
Day 10 – Porbandar
Day 11 – Gondal
Day 12 – Junagadh
Day 13 – Sasan Gir
Day 14 – Diu


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