An
exhilarating smile is playing on your face. Few minutes ago you have slid down
on your back down a boulder with your feet luckily landing on flat rock. Before
that there was some desperate clambering, ducking and walking on all fours to
get to this cavity high above the pile of loose boulders. The reward was an
incredible panel of prehistoric rock painting.
The Prehistoric Rock Art of Onake Kindi in Anegundi Karnataka |
In
Anegundi, where Harihar and Bukka founded the mighty Vijaynagar Empire, every day
has been a surprise. But there is a bigger reward waiting beyond. Onake Kindi
is a site of prehistoric settlement with rock shelters adorned with rock art.
At Chikkarampur village, few kilometres ahead, you ask for directions. Two kids
jump into the car. They will be your guides today. We drive off into this
landscape of paddy fields with swaying coconut trees and these rounded boulders
sprinkled around carelessly by some unseen hands.
The Anegundi Landscapes you love to see |
The Expedition Team |
Getting
off the car, we walk across the field to come to this gate. The caretaker
appears and leads us up a narrow track among the boulders. This time around,
the entry is far easier than you experienced an hour ago. Our expedition team
is in the middle of a clearing while boulders form a ring all around. Onake
Kindi is a perfect setting for our ancestors - a narrow opening that can be
easily guarded leading into this settlement with naturally formed shelters all
around. This almost looks like a present suburban gated community with a
central park and dwellings all around!
It
is time to look at the paintings. Boulders balanced over each other have formed
shelters. It is in these protective shelters the prehistoric human beings
lived. In their spare time, like their contemporary brethren across the world,
they indulged in some painting; just like they hunted, gathered food, danced
and sang.
The Large Painting Panel at Onake Kindi |
You are framed - Prehistoric Painting at Onake Kindi |
On the right is the first shelter. The
rectangular panel of the wall apparently has a smoother finish and is densely
packed with scores of figures. To you it seems like a community notice board or
facebook wall where almost everyone has shared photos! In archaeological
excavations, the layers of the mound or stratigraphy reveal different time periods
and culture, it is possible that this rock face was probably painted over by
generations of dwellers reflecting the time periods they lived here. Most
figures belong to animals like ox, bull, deer, sheep, goats and even dogs.
There are birds with long slender necks that look like peacocks. Some men chase
after animals. A couple of framed images of perhaps a man and a woman together
are seen – it almost looks like a wedding photo frame. The images can be
interpreted in exciting ways.
Hunting Scenes |
In another shelter there are hunting scenes.
One man is armed with a bow and arrow while another figure rides a horse
brandishing a spear. Another panel has row of men in a seemingly military like
formation as if marching together.
Looking
at these canvases that have images of humans, birds and animals, it does seem
that all prehistoric painters attended the same Arts
College! It is incredible that across India and the world indeed, the symbols,
humans and animals have a common form. You have seen similar figures at
Bhimbetka, the World Heritage Site near Bhopal. Here in Onake Kindi too, the
largely similar looking figures have been painted using red ochre
pigment made by mixing hematite with water. There are some white figures
too probably painted with limestone and could well be Karnataka’s earliest
graffiti!
Snake in Onake - The Huge Hooded Snake |
The Possible Burial Sign - Rock Art of Onake Kindi |
But
then there are some surprising images too. There is a striking larger than life
image of a huge cobra with its hood unfurled and ready to strike while another
rock has a solitary image of a man
with very long legs and thin arms. Another panel has mish-mash of geometrical
figures. The biggest mystery is the abstract circular image over the
painting board. The painting is a complex depiction of a burial along with sun
and moon. There are tiny circles, wavy patterns and dashed lines probably
conveying light and darkness. The interesting observation is that though much
smaller in size and sprawl to Bhimbetka, Onake Kindi has figures that encompass
all three categories defined by distinguished rock art scholar Dr. Yashodhar
Mathpal – representation or natural, geometric and abstract.
Just admire the Balance! |
Prehistoric Geometry Class |
Taking
a round of the place you duck into one of the shelters formed by the overhang
of a flat boulder balanced precariously over smaller rocks. You go back in
time. It is evening and hunters come in with their game. In the open centre
kids play and dogs bark. Men tie their horses as women fire up stoves to cook
the wild boars. Cows and sheep are being tended to. Soon it is dark as men take
positions to guard the colony. And then by the light of lamp, one of our
earliest artists begins to paint on the wall.
Magical Anegundi with its surprise of Onake Kindi |
Magical
Anegundi brings you to a different epoch at every turn. This right here is Iron
Age. Just beyond, Anjanadri Hill rises above the mythological Kishkindha
Kingdom where Lord Hanuman was born and across the sparkling Tungabhadra River
are the sprawling ruins of evocative Vijaynagar. The inhabitants of the
villages you passed through today are probably the descendents of the people of
Onake Kindi. Anegundi which is as old as the rocks and is the mother to
Hanuman, the prehistoric people and Harihar and Bukka will call you back soon.
A
version of the story appeared in Spectrum supplement of Deccan Herald published
on 5th July 2016
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/555967/prehistoric-rock-art.html
Story in Spectrum Supplement of Deccan Herald |
Related
Links on this Blog
Anegundi Fort
WOW!!! This is so similar to the Bhimbetka figures and wondering how I missed this on my earlier Hampi trips. Adding to my must see wish list right away.
ReplyDeleteHi Aadil ji, yes most prehistoric art looks identical across the village. Anegundi is brimming with surprises. Please check out the links on the blog for more Anegundi tips. And yes dont forget to spend an evening at Sanapur as the sun goes down.
DeleteThanks for reading!
Regards
How much do the guides take? What are the other expenses related to that? I am planning to travel there very soon.
ReplyDeleteHi, if you are in Anegundi (Anegundi is just across the river from Hampi), then you can just ask for directions. When you are in Onake Kindi you can just pay something to the caretaker. I am sure some kids will be happy to accompany you in the intervening villages. Of course you can combine your trip with Sanapur Lake. The link is given in the post above. Thanks
Delete