Celebrating Mahanavami in Hampi

While the living Virupaksha Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and his two consorts towers over Hampi, it is Lord Ram and Ramayana that have the most associations with this evocative World Heritage Site. Anegundi, the village to the north across Tungabhadra, is where the story of Vijaynagar Empire began and where large parts of Ramayana played out. This was the Kishkindha Kingdom when Ram and Lakshman came looking for abducted Sita and met Sugreev and his Chief Minister Hanuman. Here Ram killed Sugreev’s brother Vaali and helped him get back his kingdom. It was in the Pampa Sarovar where they bathed and on the banks met Sabari who fed berries to Ram.

The Ruins of the Day - The Magnificent Mahanavami Dibba in the Royal Enclosure, Hampi

Later the capital was shifted to the other side of the river to Hampi. On the Hampi side, it was on the Matanga Hill that Sugreev had taken shelter and it was on the Malyavanta Hill that Ram and Lakshman waited out the monsoons before marching to Lanka. And it was exactly during these months of September and October when the rains subsided that the grandest festivities took place in Hampi. The festival was called Mahanavami when for nine days the capital would host the most opulent celebrations.

Mahanavami too has association with Ramayana. Ram had prayed to Goddess Durga for victory just before the final battle with Ravana. The rulers of Vijaynagar too worshipped Durga praying for strength to subdue their enemies. Military campaigns were initiated after the Mahanavami celebrations when the display of power and wealth would make any future belligerent wary.

The View of the Royal Enclosure from top of Mahanavami Dibba in Hampi Karnataka

All tourists begin their visit to Hampi by paying obeisance at the Virupaksha Temple before they make their way to Royal Enclosure. In the aftermath of Battle of Talikota, the capital was sacked and pillaged. Today, the Royal Enclosure besides some fortifications and later excavations is bare except the dominating three-tiered platform called Mahanvami Dibba. It was on this platform that the King was seated as he witnessed the grand celebrations during the nine days of Navaratri.

The rich relief carvings on the walls of the Mahanavami Dibba in Hampi

On a monsoon day you circumambulate the platform. The lower two levels probably constitute the original granite stages of the platform that was built along with the royal enclosure in 14^th century. The relief carvings are a delight. There are processions of horses, elephants and camels. The kings are shown in their courts, on other occasions they watch wrestling matches, dance performances and then they go hunting deers and leopards. Foreigners are seen in plenty indicating that the fame of the glorious kingdom attracted foreign emissaries, traders and soldiers over the years. Foreigners in pointed hats lead horses, hold clubs and even play tambourines.

Grandeur and the Splendour of the days gone - Royal Enclosure in Hampi

Two series of stairs – one in front and one in back – bring you to the top of the platform. The view from here is quite exhilarating but you cannot but feel sad about the way the glorious empire ended in an orgy of plunder and destruction. While temples and structures elsewhere have survived, the royal enclosure bore the full brunt and everything seems to have been flattened. On the top of the platform there are extant pillar bases which indicate that wooden columns supported a grand mandap in which the King sat watching the proceedings. In the aftermath of the cataclysmic battle everything was burned down and looted. Now along with the mandap almost everything in the royal enclosure is lost including the possible 40 pillared Diwankhana where the King held talks with his chiefs.

The beautiful Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi

The outer compound walls profusely carved with scenes from Navaratri Celebrations - Hazararama Temple in Hampi Karnataka

If the Mahanavami Dibba is indicative of association of Lord Ram then the Hazara Ram Temple fully reinforces it. Built by King Deva Raya I in the early 15^th century in the core of the Royal Enclosure, it was the royal temple of the Vijaynagar’s kings. The temple is striking in its design and decoration with beautiful mouldings and pilastered walls. The outer compound walls are profusely decorated with similar scenes as in the Mahanavami platform. There are bands of relief carvings of processions of horses, elephants, military contingents and dancing women with sticks reminiscent of Gujarat’s Dandiya Raas. At the entry there is an image of Durga as her fierce aspect of Mahishasuramrdini. The inner compound walls depict Ramayana episodes. The main temple is situated in the middle with a mandap. The mandap walls have 108 scenes from Ramayana including fire sacrifice of Dashratha, coronation of Ram, demon king Ravana in an aerial chariot and Hanuman leaping over the ocean. 

Coming back to the Mahanavami celebrations, the impressed foreign visitors to the Vijaynagar Empire have left glowing accounts of the biggest annual celebrations that took place during Navaratri.

Fernao Nuniz, a Portuguese horse trader who spent three years (1535-1537) in Vijaynagar has written rich chronicles of the life in the empire. The Portuguese based in Goa had taken over the horse trade from the Arabs. The nine day festival according to Nuniz was the most lavish and elaborate. The days were marked with great feasts and pageantry. On the first day, nine castles – probably tents - made of rich cloth were erected in front of the royal palace for the nine principal captains or governors of the empire. Sacrifices of animals were carried out. During the ceremonies the King was seated on a throne made of gold and gems. This was the only time during the year when the king sat on this throne on top of Mahanavami Dibba. Nine horses and nine elephants bedecked with roses and silky trappings and accompanied by a great number of attendants saluted the king and when all the governors and commanders would descend into the capital to partake of the celebrations and pay tribute to the King.

The celebrations continued for nine days when each day rivaled the other with extravaganza and pomp. Abdur Razzaq, ambassador of the Persian ruler Shah Rukh, visited Vijaynagar in 1443 during the reign of Deva Raya II. He says that Ashtavana or the Revenue Department was abuzz as all the Captains or Nayakas descended on the capital to partake of the grand celebrations and to pay tribute and pledge allegiance, money and soldiers to the King. The Nayakas were given a part of the land in lieu of military assistance and annual tribute.

Domingos Paes was another Portuguese traveller who visited Vijaynagar around 1520 during the reign of King Krishna Deva Raya when the empire was at its zenith. Paes’ chronicles are supposed to be the most detailed of all accounts that have been written about Vijaynagar and he corroborates the enthusiastic account of Nuniz. Paes also describes the magnificent celebrations during the nine days of Navaratri. He identifies the Mahanavami Dibba as the House of Victory which was erected after the victory over Orissa and on which the King is seated during the celebrations.

Women Dancing - Mahanavami Dibba at Hampi

Paes is also dazzled by the extravagant display of opulence. It seems everything from horses and elephants to queens and the dancing women are heavily weighed down by the huge amounts of gold, rubies and pearls they are carrying on their heads and limbs. In some cases, attendants help them by supporting their arms. The royal enclosure was accessible to only the captains and chiefs and was entered through a series of secured gateways. The inside of the enclosure was a grand show of handsome cloths, Mecca velvet, silks from Persia and brocades of China. Great slaughters of animals took place in the mornings after which prayers to the idol were carried out. The feast began in the afternoons. When the night descended thousands of torches were lit turning the night into day. Festivities continued as wrestlers went about their business of disfiguring faces. The women dancers are burdened with diamond collars, bracelets and armlets of rubies and pearls, series of heavy girdles that hang down till their thighs and anklets with all imaginable precious stones that it is difficult to believe how they could amass such wealth. The king is seated on the throne. The captains salute and pay their tributes. And then the night sky is lit up with an eye popping display of fireworks. The festivities continue for nine days, the intensity and scale growing grander each day.

The Splendour of Royal Procession - painting from the ceiling of Virupaksha Temple - Photo Credit NID

Standing on top of the platform at dusk you survey the ruins around the royal enclosure. With the detailed description given by Paes it is not hard to go back 500 years to imagine today as one of the Navaratri days. Happy people are dressed in their best, priests chant shlokas, and governors size each other up. The King resplendent in his white embroidered clothes jokes with the numerous beautiful women all around him; his jewels catch the light of the thousands lit torches even as his mind fine-tunes his next military conquest. The trained horses prance and the caparisoned elephants trumpet at the command of their masters. For nine days, the plundered and barren capital of Vijaynagar Empire relives its old glory days.

A version of the story appeared as the Cover Story in the Spectrum supplement of Deccan Herald dated 20^th Sep 2016.

Revisiting the Past Grandeur

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/571286/revisiting-past-grandeur.html

Related links on this blog:

Prehistoric Art near Hampi http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2016/07/onake-kindi-gated-prehistoric-rock-art.html

Some more Prehistoric Art http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2015/07/cavehanger-in-anegundi.html

Origin of Hampi
http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2015/07/anegundi-fort-and-origin-of-vijaynagara.html

Sanapur Surprise
http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2014/11/sublime-sunset-and-magical-moonrise.html

Pushkarnis in Hampi http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2016/06/discovering-world-of-pushkarnis-in.html

Coral Walking in Narara Marine National Park

Wading in the ankle high water, I have stumbled upon a marine life wonderland. A wonderland, I had resigned to my fate, I could only watch on the infotainment channels on TV. Someone who is scared of swimming, leave alone snorkelling or scuba diving, I knew there was no chance of ever watching live the spectacularly colourful marine life. Things are about to change.



The Wonderland of Narara Marine National Park in Jamnagar Gujarat

The Narara Marine National Park and Sanctuary in Gujarat has come as a pleasant surprise as I road trip across Gujarat. I have visited National Wildlife Sanctuaries, National Parks and lately even a Geological Park and Jurassic Park but this is the first time I am hearing about Marine National Park. I am heading west towards Dwarka from Jamnagar along the Gulf of Kutch. This is the petrochemical hub of India with sprawling refineries and related paraphernalia of mushroom like storage tanks and lines of tankers snaking around. It is hard to imagine a marine park co-existing with oil - oil and water simply do not mix.

Dirt track leading from Vadinar to Narara National Marine Park near Jamnagar

Narara National Marine Park

Turning right on the highway towards Vadinar, just past the Reliance refinery and few kilometres ahead, the creeks of Gulf of Kutch make their entry parallel to the dirt road that leads to the marine park. Birds tiptoe on their long slender legs poking into the water. Stopping at the reception to buy entry ticket and to engage a guide, I am on my way to the promised land or rather the promised waters. This is the low tide time that stretches for twelve hours between two high tides and the perfect time to explore when the water is about a foot high. These tips came from the nice hotel owner in Jamnagar.



The ridged sand surface during low tide times

We make our way through a barrier of mangrove forest with aerial roots spurting through the ridge patterned sand banks to emerge into the vast reef. The Gulf of Kutch wraps us all around as it extends deep into the horizon.  Established in 1982, the Narara Marine National Park is India’s first Marine Park sprawled over about 160 sq km and is part of the Marine Sanctuary that encompasses a group of 42 islands ranging from the well known Pirotan Island to Dwarka Beyt. But here is the beauty of Narara. There is no need to ride boats or wrangle for permits. All you need is to arrive at low tide times and simply start walking. Narara turns into nature’s marvel when waters recede and the flatlands come alive with marine life around your feet.



The dancing sun light on the water surface creates magic at Narara National Marine Park in Jamanagar Gujarat

About walking for a kilometre we arrive at the shallow waters. I am finally going to fulfil my wish to see the incredible world of marine wildlife and that too by just walking and splashing in the water. The show has begun as I walk around the rocks draped in wavy algae. Creatures of the sea dash around my ankles. Sun light creates magical shifting patterns on the rippling waters.  The disturbed sediment on the bed settles down even as I watch and the water again turns spectacularly clean. In the company of refineries and chemical plants, I can only marvel at the crystal clear waters.



Now this is a beauty!

The guide has bent down and is poking the rock with his stick. Holding in his hand is the first catch of the day! He has a crab in his hand flailing his chelipeds or pincers. The marine creatures are masters of disguise but it is only the trained eyes of a guide who can spot them as they seemingly blend in with the background. After the little guy is photographed, the guide gently releases it into the water.

Couple of Brittle Stars

There is a whole world below these rocks

Here at your feet is wonderland of sea life. The waterscape is littered with these rocks that have green algae or sea lettuce clinging to them. The sea lettuce being rich in proteins is a source of food for both sea animals and humans. Some rocks seem to be wrapped in the cellophane like lettuce. The rocks that form this reef are actually corals formed by secretion of calcium carbonate and over time have taken the looks of these grey and dark rocks. But once upturned these rocks reveal the multicoloured corals underneath. There is a whole world of animals embedded on their uneven surface - brittle stars related to starfish cling to the rock with their whip-like five arms even as a sea cucumber is trying to burrow into a hole.



The Ultimate Catch - The tentacley Octopus



A Sea Cucumber

The furry Wolf Crab

A Coral at Narara National Marine Park

The Incredible Waterworld of Narara



Sea Grapes - not sure if they will yield wine!

The guide is just warming up. Scanning the waters he picks up variety of creatures – there is a furry wolf crab looking like all dressed up for a trip to tundra; a colourful crab lights up the day as the showstopper, a sea cucumber looking as interesting as, well, a cucumber. It takes time to find one but soon the guide is duelling with the tentacles of a slimy octopus! Seeing an octopus is a marvellous surprise. Once released, it glides through the waters. There is brown sargassum weed eclipsed by the luminescent flowing green algae. Clumps of bead like sea grapes, another variety of green algae, bring in variety to the vegetation. And then there is whole another world of corals – a brown coral that looks like a human brain, while another looks like a flower with purple petals and then there is this coral that looks as if the contents of a pink paint tube have been squeezed on to the rocks.

On the way these neat looking boards with photos of marine life - at Narara

We have walked several kilometres away from the mangroves. The afternoon is cool as I survey the vast waterscape all around. So far I have walked and trekked through national parks; this is the first time I am splashing around in water and getting dazzled by this colourful littoral marine world which I had no hope of ever witnessing up this close and personal.



The Puffer Fish that binges on water in case of a threat and turns into a plastic ball! At Narara MArine National Park

My reverie is broken as I see the guide darting around. Is there a crocodile chasing him? No, it is apparent that he has spotted another slippery animal. Finally, he bends down, scoops up his catch and presents it to me triumphantly. My eyes pop out. The guide is holding an almost spherical creature which from its pouty mouth should be a fish with plasticky skin armed with spines. This is the puffer fish which in event of being threatened by a predator drinks up on water to suddenly look not so edible. In fact the blob like appearance looks intimidating. Even as the fish is held in the hands, water is leaking water from its mouth. Apart from sudden evasive burst of speed – no wonder the guide had a hard time catching it – the sphere like fish looks pretty unattractive to a would be hunter. The sullen looking ball of a fish is lowered into the water and it almost immediately transforms itself into a regular fish swimming away.

Group of school kids holding a Starfish in Narara

Narara Marine National Park is a little secret tucked away behind refineries and surprisingly, below these absolutely clear waters, pipelines bring crude oil from tankers berthed in the high seas that feed the refineries. For once I am happy that Gujarat Tourism is not promoting the park. The vast sight of unspoilt and clean waters with its cornucopia of marine life will fare better without us.  The puffer fish would prefer fewer drinking binges. 

Getting There: Narara Marine National Park is about 55 kms from Jamnagar in Gujarat. Remember to turn right towards Vadinar just beyond the Reliance Refinery. Jamnagar is about 300 kms from Ahmedabad.

Travel Tips: Find out the low tide timings before visiting. You will need 3-4 hours to completely enjoy the park. Wear sandals/floaters as you would be wading in about knee deep water. Carry water if you visit in hot months.

Marine Parks of India

Surprise Surprise! Narara Marine National Park is not the only Marine Park in India - there are five such Marine Parks and Water Sanctuaries. Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park in Andaman & Nicobar Islands, about 30 kms from Port Blair has reefs and is a breeding ground for different turtles including the Olive Ridley Turtles. Gulf of Mannar Marine National Park near Rameshwaram in Tamil Nadu is a group of islands that are home to Dugong, a vulnerable marine mammal. Malvan Marine Sanctuary is located near Malvan in Maharashtra and if lucky you can spot dolphins here. Gahirmatha Marine Wildlife Sanctuary in Odisha is the beach where mass nesting of Olive Ridley Sea Turtles takes place.

A version of the story appeared in the October 2016 issue of Rail Bandhu. Rail Bandhu is the on-board magazine of Indian Railways available on Rajdhani, Shatabdi, Duranto and Gatiman express trains.

http://railbandhu.in/coral-walking-narara-marine-national-park/narara-marine2/

Story in Rail Bandhu

Visit to Narara was part of the Great Gujarat Road Odyssey

Related Links on this blog

The Great Gujarat Road Odyssey
Day 1 - Viratnagar
Day 2 - Pushkar
Day 3 - Vadnagar

Day 4 – Siddhpur

Day 5 - Dholavira

Day 6 - Lakhpat

Shekhawati – The Fresco Wonderland

What do the following surnames have in common – Ruia, Poddar, Goenka, Jhunjhunwalla, Birla, Kothari, Piramal, Singhania, Khaitan, Bajaj, Kedia and Bhartiya?

Behind the doors is the Shekhawati Wonderland of Paintings

Yes, you are right; they are all respected business families belonging to Marwari business community but did you know that they all had their origin in the region of Shekhawati in Rajasthan? While we all know about Rajput warrior clans and their palaces and forts across Rajasthan and their bloody battles, few people know about the people of this cluster of three districts in North Rajasthan who conquered the business landscape across India armed only with business acumen and entrepreneurial spirit.

The bare branches of Khejri trees in a sea of mustard yellow - on the approach to Jhunjhunu

In doing so, the Shekhawati Marwari community left behind a heritage of imposing mansions or havelis adorned with beautiful frescoes in the arid landscape which is now world’s one of the biggest Open Air Art Gallery.

It looks like we are late in discovering Shekhawati! We are in Mandawa and the locals point out to the mansion where Om Puri hides the three fugitives in his madrasa in Salman Khan’s blockbuster ‘Bajrangi Bhaijaan’. On a street corner, they reverentially point to the spot where Sanjay Dutt’s truck hits the alien in Aamir Khan starrer ‘PK’.

Spot where Sanjay Dutt's truck hits the alien Aamir Khan in PK - Mandawa, Shekhawati

Mandawa is about 260 kms southwest of Delhi and occupies a central position in the grid like layout of towns of interest in Shekhawati. The best way to explore Shekhawati towns is on foot. Turn into any lane and you will be greeted with a procession of mansions of all shapes and sizes. And on their walls and facades is cornucopia of brilliant paintings with all possible pigments used - red, blue, maroon, and even gold and silver.

The Crumbling Glory of Shekhawati

So how on earth this wealth and opulence came into being in the middle of nowhere? In the early eighteenth century the Marwari merchants were invited by the local barons as caravan trade took off between the areas around Indus and Central India. The booming economy led to a construction boom. The second boom happened when the merchants moved to Calcutta in 1820s after the caravan routes declined due to internal strife. Money made in trading cotton, wool, rice, wheat, sugar and opium found its way back home as the merchants seemingly competed with each other to erect magnificent havelis across the hinterland in the shadow of Aravallis. But as the merchants and their descendants settled in far away cities, the towns and their magnificent havelis were gradually abandoned.

One of the grandest havelis in Mandawa, Rajasthan

One of the most outlandish depictions in all of Shekhawati - Mandawa

As if the construction was not enough, an army of painters was deployed to paint the walls. A typically haveli has a soaring gate with richly carved wooden door. Here on the facade, the painters went crazy as they recreated their patrons’ wishes. Huge elephants and horses flank the gates. The arched undersides and eaves that hold the overhanging upper floors have the most vivid panels with unending convoy of portraits, mythological depictions and floral patterns.

The paintings convey the upwardly-mobileness of the owners. Merchants who probably had visited Europe asked the artists to paint automobiles, trains and even hot-air balloons. So while Nandlal Murmuria Haveli has an eclectic mix of Venice landscape, trains, cars and even Nehru riding a horseback, the Newatia Haveli, has a totally outrageous image of a man taking flight wearing wings!

The Sheesh Mahal of Bala Qila in Nawalgarh

Thirty kms south of Mandawa we arrive in Nawalgarh that is home to well preserved havelis that have been turned into ticketed museums as the guides explain the profuse paintings on the wall. But the biggest surprise in Nawalgarh is in a modern building complex as the guide leads us up the stairs and finally into a dark room. After paying for tickets we are led into the Sheesh Mahal. The circular room lies in one of the bastions of a largely ruined Bala Qila. As the lights are turned on the ceiling and roof glints as paintings in rich gold come into view.  On the ceiling is probably the prettiest looking map-picture depicting the Jaipur city. In Shekhawati, the sheer scale and scale of paintings will leave you dazzled.

The inside courtyard of a haveli in Fatehpur, Rajasthan

The restored Nand Lal Devra Haveli in Fatehpur, Shekhawati, Rajasthan

Fatehpur lies 20 kms to the west of Mandawa and has complete array of architecture. For the first time you find a tomb here that looks like a shrine and belongs to Nawab Alef Khan. The star attraction is profusely painted and conserved Nand Lal Devra Haveli bought by a French artist. The new paintings over the originals though will scandalise art lovers. At the edge of the town is a wonderfully maintained building built in 1925 and a hospital just beyond, both built by Bhartiyas.

Jagannath Singhania Chhatri in Fatehpur, Shekhawati

The Marwari merchants apart from their mansions also built family cenotaphs locally called chhatris. Just across the road is the serene looking and nicely maintained Jagannath Singhania Chhatri inside fortress like walls. Climbing from the rear you are treated to a procession of domes of all sizes on all sides of the terrace. Below the walls are covered with paintings. 

Catching the sunset at Sethani ka Johara in Churu, Shekhawati

It is evening as we near Churu. It is time to see something different. Just outside the city is the most impressive water tank called Sethani ka Johara. The Marwari merchants while building opulent mansions also contributed to philanthropy. The tank was commissioned as a relief project during the terrible famine of 1899. Over the quiet waters ringed by graceful pavilions, we watch the sun go down. The sun might have gone down over the glory days of Shekhawati but a new day will soon dawn on a resurrected Shekhawati.

Related stories on this blog

http://justrippingg.blogspot.in/2016/08/shekhawati-painted-wonderland.html

A version of the story appears in the September 2016 issue of NRI Achievers magazine

http://nriachievers.in/shekhawati-a-wonderland-of-frescos/

http://nriachievers.in/magazine/sep-2016/

Northeast Sojourn - Beauty Beyond Compare

The tiny Maruti 800 labours up the winding roads of Kohima. It is Sunday and most of the city is closed. Beautiful people dressed in their best emerge out of the lanes after the mass at the churches. We are making our way to the top of Aradura Hill. Few hours ago, the train from Delhi has brought me to Dimapur, a railway station, to my surprise is in Nagaland!

The Beautiful Northeast

The Catholic Cathedral in Kohima Nagaland

Cherry Blossom Delight in Kohima

Kohima is the first stop in my maiden visit to the beautiful Northeast. Few more twists and turns and we are at the soaring Catholic Cathedral. Up here, away from the bustle of the growing city, I am in a state of bliss. Northeast brings the first surprise when I see the jewel like pink flowers adorning the tall trees. These are the Cherry Blossoms popularly known as Sakura flowers in Japan. Here on the hill, the tranquility is in total contrast to the times when the fiercest battles of WWII were fought between British Indian and Japanese troops.  The Cathedral was built by the Japanese people to honour all the brave soldiers who died here. Just beyond, on the edge of the hill with the city spread out below, I am treated to a spectacular sunset.

Sunset View of Kohima from The Catholic Cathedral

Also Read: Love at First Sight

The orderly streets of Kohima Nagaland

The next day, I head out into the city. Today is a working day and the vehicles line up the city's meandering roads. The traffic is however disciplined and is restricted to single lanes from opposite sides with the empty middle lane reserved for emergency and security forces vehicles. Yes, presence of forces is a constant hope that things will soon get better.

The immaculate Kohima War Cemetery maintained by CWGC (Commonwealth Graves Commission), Garrison Hill, Kohima, Nagaland

Cherry Blossom at Kohima War Cemetery. The battles fought here in Kohima and Imphal between British India and Japan are regarded as the Greatest Battles of Britain in World War II

We turn off the main road to arrive at another serene oasis called the Garrison Hill. This is the Kohima War Cemetery which is the final resting place of more than 1420 Commonwealth soldiers including 330 Indians who died during the Kohima Siege in the spring of 1944. Walking among the immaculately maintained gravestones and reading the moving inscriptions on the graves of mostly young brave men is heart rending. Today the soothing blanket of green grass and flowers seem to comfort the traumatised souls. The WWII memorial is another reminder of the futility of war.  

A performance at the Hornbill Festival, Kisama Nagaland

A Naga Tribe in their finery at the Hornbill Festival

I will call them colour coordinated sisters - at the Hornbill Festival Kisama

In the afternoon, I leave for the nearby Naga Heritage Village of Kisama where the annual Hornbill Festival takes place in the first week of December when all the tribes of Nagaland come together to showcase Nagaland’s culture and beautiful diversity. For a week, the stadium and the adjoining area in the village turns into a carnival as hordes of locals and tourists descend to savour the colours and taste of Northeast India. 

After soaking in the culture of Nagaland, it is time to visit the famous Kaziranga National Park home to the Great One-horned Rhinoceros. I catch a train from Dimapur to Jorhat in Assam. There are buses available at Jorhat that go to Kohora. Kohara is the base to explore Kaziranga and has hotels and resorts to suit all budgets.

Some Rhino Sighting in Kaziranga National Park, Assam

Next morning, it is time for jungle safari. This is tea country of Assam and the road leading to the Western Range of the Sanctuary is lined with glistening tea gardens. Soon we are bouncing along in the bountiful jungles of Kaziranga. In the distance, through the tall grass I am able to see the rhinoceroses munching in the abundant grasslands and wading in the swamps created by Brahmaputra. The driver and the guard are experts and help spot elephants, wild buffaloes and birds too.

Refreshed with culture and wildlife, it is time to head out to Scotland of the East. Catching a bus to outskirts of Guwahati, I take a shared taxi to Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya.

The Lovely Umiam Lake, Shillong

The name Shillong conjures up images of waterfalls, dew fresh meadows, lakes and beautiful people. On the way, I stop-over to take a quick look at the Umium Lake. In Shillong, Police Bazaar is the nerve centre and home to hotels and shops. It seems the whole town has descended here on a chilly winter afternoon. I walk the streets enjoying the views and getting smitten with the sharply dressed pretty girls of Shillong. 

The flowery wonderland called Mawlynnong, Meghalaya

The Cleanest Village in Asia - Mawlynnong in Meghalaya

The Living Root Bridge at Village Riwai, Meghalaya

The Meghalaya Tourism office runs day-trip buses to attractions around Shillong. I take the opportunity to visit Cherrapunji hoping to get wet but it is as dry as Marathwada in the winters. Anyway, Cherrapunji has lost the tag of wettest place in India to its neighbour of Mawsynram. I duck through the Mauwsmai Caves with hanging staglacites, and enjoy the Seven Sisters and Nohsngithiang waterfalls. The next day, I cross a river on a living root bridge formed by training roots of trees that spans the entire breadth of the river. Nearby, I am in a flower wonderland called Mawlynnong which is Asia’s Cleanest Village. Walking through the flowery lanes, I wondered why we can’t make our cities this clean.

It has been a wonderful trip. Getting to know the friendly and beautiful people of Northeast has been a revelation. The trip has introduced me to Northeast. In the coming years we hope to get to know each other even more.

A version of the story appeared in the August 2016 issue of NRI Achievers magazine

http://nriachievers.in/northeast-sojourn-beauty-beyond-compare/

http://nriachievers.in/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/All-Pages-WEbsite-e-Magzine.pdf