Tuesday 24 March 2020

Cricket Icons, Little Warsaw and Waterworld - Jamnagar & Narara Marine National Park

The Great Gujarat Road Odyssey – Day 8

It was a long tiring drive of more than 500 kms yesterday and you wake up groggy in the city of Jamnagar. There are a few things you need to check out in the city before driving to the Amazing Waterworld.

These are the lockdown days in the time of Corona. A good time to revisit the Gujarat trip and continue from where you left
खोलो खोलो दरवाज़े
पर्दे करो किनारे खुंटे से बँधी है हवा
मिल के छुडाओ सारे
आजाओ पतंग लेके
Taare Zameen Par

Another sunset on the road

You have always associated Jamnagar with the world’s largest refinery built by the Ambanis of Reliance group. There are plenty more historical and sport associations with the city that was built by the Jam Sahibs of Nawanagar, a 13 gun salute state, now named Jamnagar, in Kathiawar region of Gujarat.



Before Mumbai’s Shivaji Park, it seems Jamnagar gave rise to Indian Cricket’s biggest stars and heroes. The legendary cricketer Ranjitsinhji Vibhaji Jadeja (Reign 1907 – 1933) was a Jam Sahib himself. India’s premier domestic cricket championship Ranji Trophy is named after him. Cricket runs in the dynasty and the family. His cousin Kumar Shri Duleepsinhji was another legendary star and has Duleep Trophy named in his honour.

Vinoo Mankad bowling his slow left arm orthodox delivery - Jamnagar and its cricketing legacy to the country


British style cricket pavilion

Surprise, surprise that is not all. Another illustrious player Vinoo Mankad (1917 – 1978) too was born here in Jamnagar! Now this is too great a coincidence. Apparently, there is something about this place that makes everyone excel in cricket. In the later days, Ajay Jadeja and Ravindra Jadeja, both born in Jamnagar, will carry the tradition forward.

The grand old man of Indian storytelling Ruskin Bond spent his early childhood here with his father who taught English in the royal palace.

Maharaja Digvijaysinhji Ranjitsinhji Jadeja of Nawanagar State 

The Good Maharaja - Celebrating Christmas with the Polish children 










The Polish children dancing in their camp in Balachadi

And then there is this hearwarming story of the Nawanagar Maharaja. Maharaja Digvijaysinhji Ranjitsinhji Jadeja (Reign 1933 – 1948), son of Ranjitsinhji, helped provide sanctuary to about 600 Polish Jew children who arrived in 1942 after a torturous trip on a ship from Russian prisons during the horrible days of Holocaust in World War II.

The camp for the children was built at Balachadi, about 25 kms from the capital Jamnagar, near the summer palace. Years later the surviving children would come back to celebrate their saviour.

According to Polish sources, the Maharaja told the children, “You may not have your parents, but I am your father now.” The children, in turn, called him “our Bapu” (“father”).  


Teen Darwaza, Jamnagar

Gujarat's own Jugaad - The Chakda


Jamnagar is known as Chhota Kashi because of presence of large number of temples. You will come back to explore the city along with the palaces and its cricketing legacy


Shri Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, Jamnagar

What is Gujarat without some Dandiya Raas - Street Art in Jamnagar

Kachnar blooming at Lakhota Lake in Jamnagar



BAPS Shri Narayan Mandir - Jamnagar

Before hitting the highway, you go around the city. IAF jets scream in the skies. The air force base protects the country's oil refining assets. The Lakhota Palace built in the middle of the Lakhota Lake is closed for repairs. You are floating around the Teen Darwaza area. Few people are on the road this early in the morning. With its wide roads, and airy feel, the city seems to be well planned. There is definitely more to the city, and its royal heritage. You will have to come back to Jamnagar to see its palaces, royal and cricketing legacy and the temples.

Now it is time to leave Jamnagar and drive to the petrochemical hub of the country. For the next few days you will driving along the coastline till Diu.

World's Largest Petrochemical Refinery

There are some things you have just wanted to do. There doesn’t seem to be any reason to it though. Standing at the gates of Sriharikota Space Centre makes sense. But standing here at the gates of the world’s largest petrochemical refinery - does it make any sense? It doesn’t really, but you have wanted to do this from the days Dhirubhai had set out on his own personal mission. Your own personal mission is complete and you roll through the landscape full of paraphernalia engaged in hydrocarbon processing and downstreaming. Unending processions of tankers quelling the energy demand of the country roll on the roads; huge storage tanks dot the landscape; the air heavy with smell of oil. This could be Kuwait or even Texas.

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The most exciting story of the day is covered here:



The Wonder of Narara Marine National Park - Jamnagar




Please click the link to be amazed


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Painted Stork (Mycteria leucocephala)

Pelican - Is it the Great White or Dalmatian Pelican

It is late afternoon as you again make your way towards the western edge of the country. This is Gulf of Kutch country. Salt pans line up on both sides of the highway. The sun has turned into a red ball racing you to disappear from the face of the earth first. Driving on the road does feel like you are heading to Lands’ End or even Earth’s End.

You are in the Land of Your Own God.

The journey will continue.  

Travel Tips
  • At Narara Marine National Park hire a guide who will upturn rocks and corals to show you crabs and octopuses. The rocks are then put back at the same spot without harming the aquatic life
  • Find out the low tide timings before visiting. You will need 3-4 hours to completely enjoy the park. Wear sandals/floaters as you would be wading in about knee deep water. Carry water if you visit in hot months.

Day's Stats
  • Route Taken – From Jamnagar taken NH 947 West. Just beyond the Reliance Refinery turned right towards Vadinar to reach Narara Marine Park. Came back to NH 947 and then driving all the way to Dwarka
  • Distance covered today – 172 kms
  • Total Distance covered so far - 2466 kms 

References

Gazetteer of the Bombay Presidency: Kathiawar




Related Links on this blog

Day 4 – Siddhpur
Day 5 - Dholavira
Day 6 - Lakhpat

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