Sunday, 18 June 2023

'Holi'Day in Delhi

8th March 2023

These days it takes copious amounts of self-will to still that furiously tail-spinning mind for a few moments. Holi has been gone for months and half the year is already gone and you do not want this godblessed blog to miss an entry from this year. So, on an oppressive morning with Navgraha Stotram playing in a loop - yes you need all the help - you finally manage to sit down to write this down. 

Summers in Delhi now swing from heat waves to oppressively hot and humid days and if last year was a sign of things to come, these next few months are going to be a torture with the buzzkill El Nino probably denying the few days of scant monsoon rains.

The Semals Delighted Again - Mirror Mirror on the Bus

The Petunias that saved the Spring

Holi for some reason this year seemed subdued in the neighbourhood. The lingering pandemic has taken the funk out of the festival. Last year you had experienced some hair-raising traffic incidents in the North-West part of the city. Holi or no Holi, the immensely kind and amiable citizens of Delhi love to show their moronic dare-devilry on the streets. This time you decide to be less adventurous and stay in your own familiar neck of woods. The annual tradition has to continue, even if partly curtailed.


The Painted Sector 30 Pillars of the Elevated Road


The day is hot and the sky is unwelcoming and grey, reflecting the mood of the festival day so far. Maybe across the Yamuna, the sky could cheer up and show some festival colour. You will make your way through the familiar roads of Noida. Bridge pillars and walls in Noida, like elsewhere in the country, are getting a big splash of colour. The pillars of the elevated road opposite the Children’s Hospital in Sector 30 have some cheerful art of kids and nature. In the days leading to G20 Summit, the authorities are expected to go overboard in painting the town red, green and yellow. 

Along with the wall paintings they have thrown in some disco psychedelic lights. The commuters can tripp without trippingg on their way home. All this has been designed by the caring babus to keep everyone high and funky. The fun begins when dusk falls.

The Boys of Holi


Throwback to the Surreal Lockdown Days 


This Cotton Silk tree has kept you company all these Holi Days

It is here that you run into the first group of Holi revellers. For the first time you see signs of the festival. And they are happy to oblige. No, these photos will not appear in any newspaper. Sorry to disappoint you guys. But yes they will definitely appear in the world’s most followed travel blog. The google server might just crash when you upload this piece.



The Suffocating and Dying Yamuna

Under the dull skies the Yamuna looks even more depressing. Every year you look at the rapidly diminishing toxic strand of water thinking it will be the last time before the river chokes into oblivion. On the northern side, all you can see is piers that will hold more bridges of this ever-growing monstrosity of a metro. On the eastern bank, blocks of concrete rapidly encroach upon the floodplains – politicians, authorities, law enforcement agencies, all gleefully happy. Once Yamuna disappears, crores will be spent in uncovering the river just like the morons are doing for the now gone Saraswati river. We all have our priorities set so right.

The new Ashram Flyover now directly connecting DND

The DND Ring Road loop is getting more dollops of concrete. The Ashram flyover has been stretched so that the motorists can now drop straight onto the now uncared for and rapidly disintegrating DND. In this all-round loopy development, you are just glad that the semal on the central verge has miraculously survived. Under the sad skies, few blooms twinkle. All is not lost yet.

The Original Barapullah


You stop over on the new Barapullah to look at the original Barapullah. The original still looks in good repair. For Holi, the traffic has picked up on the bridge. It is not safe to linger here. On the right, the domes of Khan-i-Khanan and Humayun tombs line up in a never before observed frame – for now you will save it in your memory to be clicked on an early Sunday morning.

The Glowing Semal and the Cluster Buses



Fish Out of Water - New Additions to the Lodhi Art District

 Celebrating Pandit Birju Maharaj

The Barapullah brings you to the centre of your Happy Zone. All these weekend visits to this part of the city keeps you sane in these confusing times. And as on cue, the skies wipe the grey off to reveal blue with white clouds. Yes, this is the magic of the Happy Zone. Finally Holi is looking colourful. Semal trees have again smiled this year. You will take position on the corner of Lodhi Road and Maharshi Raman Marg. A glorious Silk Cotton Tree stands resplendent with orange blooms. The orange cluster city buses wait at the red light twinning with the tree. For the first time you are smiling. The outing has just turned worthwhile.

Matthew Circle - The Flower Easel






Of Course!





And just a few days ago, Tulips were in full bloom before the heat decimated them.



From here you will move to see the flower decked roundabouts. The NDMC Horticulture Department never fails to disappoint in Spring. The early unseasonal heat smouldered most of the flowers. The Tulips of few days ago have turned into burnt stalks. Probably, that is the reason more petunias have been planted this year. Petunias tolerate heat better and can continue to bloom till April and May. The Matthew Circle is a cornucopia of colours. This is the flagship roundabout of New Delhi and probably gets attention from NDMC’s best gardeners and planners. And as always, you stop by the sidewalk, wave to the traffic cops huddled around the traffic hut and cross over into the flowery heaven.

Teen Murti


Teen Murti Bhawan or Nehru Museum now will be known as Pradhan Mantri Sangrahalaya


No idea how G20 will help the people

That Mother Dairy!

Before they decide to pull them down



Willingdon Crescent

Now it will be back to some good old time travelling to Teen Murti and the newly christened Pradhanmantri Sangrahalaya. Maybe one of these days you will go visit and look at the changes inside. To you this will always be Teen Murti and Teen Murti Bhawan and that familiar street over there, Willingdon Crescent where all the memories were made and that you will keep visiting here in the physical world and the nocturnal world.

The always surprising Bhagwan Mahavir Vanasthali in Delhi's Central Ridge


The Remains of the Festival


It is in your new haunt in Delhi’s ridge where interesting episodes are happening. Bhagwan Mahavir Vanasthali on Simon Bolivar Marg is your own little Eden. Away from the picnickers and joggers of Nehru Park, this park is an absolute beauty with the right mix of landscaped and wild grounds. On the weekend before the First Lockdown you had saved a monkey that was probably mauled by the resident dogs. Animal rescue van did turn up. Hope the little guy is back being a terror to humans.

 

FB Post that you made with your Encounter with the Tree Man!

Holi Run & Running into Pradip Krishen

The Huffing & Puffing Years

Not sure what it is but it did not feel like Holi this year. The colony roads were mostly silent all morning. Maybe it is the new Influenza A Virus H3N2 that is raging through the city. Your love affair continues with every new virus on the block.

Getting out is becoming increasingly difficult each year and you almost wanted to call Ola and then ask the driver to click few photos. The run will be curtailed and will be limited to New Delhi. Last year you had made it to Rohini!

The early heat apparently did something to the flowers. The tulips bloomed for few days before disappearing. It is the petunias that have saved the Spring for Delhi. They have literally taken over the parks. Everything else has wimpered out.

 

 Yup that's Pradip Krishen! 

And then you see this gentleman trying to protect his dogs from being mauled by the resident doggies. They are the same doggies perhaps who mauled that little monkey few years ago. You do a double take. The man looks familiar. Are you Pradip Krishen? Yes! It is so nice to finally meet you. He along with his Man Friday are trying to get their dogs away to their vehicle. There is lot of barking going on from both sides. The quiet park is suddenly live. You wished you had the book with you. Times like this and suddenly you don’t know what to say. You gather your thoughts quickly. I am sure there will no book ever like this on trees. Thank you! And they drag their dogs away to the parking lot.

Woof - What just happened here!

To be continued…

 

The Chamrod Stars


The heat has made the park bone dry. The sun and the clouds monkey around. Chamrods and bougainvilleas bloom. The dogs are now resting after woofing off the intruders. Monkey families sit on the branches bonding.  

 

The Glass House Petunia Heart

Lodhi Gardens with still surviving Dahlias


Skies are darkening again. You will stop by Lodhi Gardens for a little while. The heart installation at the Glass House this time of the year is blooming with petunias. Dahlias ring the octagonal Mohammed Shah Tomb sitting on a grassy knoll. Visitors are back in the park. They don’t seem to have played Holi either. Holi is definitely losing its charm.



Holi Day is coming to an end. It is drizzling as you make your way back home away from home. You check your records – it rained in 2020 too. Over the last few years that feeling of a festival day seems to be floundering somewhere. It is as if you are just glad the day is over. The day doesn’t seem to be any different except maybe for some respite from the traffic on the roads. You are too old to be throwing water balloons from the terrace. So how do we bring back the magic of Holi? No easy answers there.

 


Let's go trippingg

The skies are dark and overcast. Below, the streets look inviting; wet and glimmering. Today you will not be able to witness the full moon in the twilight sky. It is okay. The psychedelic LEDs dance underneath the flyovers. You will take whatever is offered.

References:

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/delhi/wilting-hopes-spring-bloom-may-not-last-long-this-season-with-summers-early-entry/articleshow/98283674.cms?from=mdr

https://www.financialexpress.com/photos/business-gallery/3019830/delhi-in-spring-a-riot-of-colour-nature-smiles-at-visitors-as-nehru-park-blooms-with-flowers-see-beautiful-photos/8/

https://www.financialexpress.com/photos/lifestyle-gallery/2990067/as-spring-is-here-delhi-decks-up-with-tulip-see-beautiful-pictures/6/

 

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Saturday, 1 October 2022

An Evening in Orchha - The Dangerous Return to an Early Scene in Life

Ganesh Visarjan in Betwa

September 2022

Few minutes into the drive from Jhansi to Orchha and you are fearing the worst. As you enter a decade of purposeful travel and now that you revisit places, some after a gap of many years, Paul Theroux words are coming true across India.

The decision to return to any early scene in your life is dangerous but irresistible, not as a search for the lost time but for the grotesquerie of what happened since. In most cases it is like meeting an old lover years later and hardly recognizing the object of desire in this pinched and bruised old fruit. We all live with fantasies of transformation. Live long enough and you see them enacted – the young made old, the road improved, houses where there were once fields - Paul Theroux in his travelogue ‘The Great Railway Bazaar’

That Sunset in Orchha long time ago - Circa 2012

2014


But Orchha? You always had this naïve belief that Orchha will stay a small outpost untouched by modern commercial exploitation and the word that you now abhor – ‘Development.’

As you drive along the half hour route south-east of Jhansi, you run into a new highway. You fear the worst – is the highway going through Orchha? Thankfully, the highway goes over and we come back to the old route after navigating the underpass. Ahead, an ugly underpass has been built below the railway line. It is slushy after the rains and cows use it for their evening group chats. Yes, there are just too many cows on the roads these days. And yes, the vibe of a tree lined country road is lost. Ahead, resorts and hotels line up both sides of the road. Everyone here is hell-bent on destroying this place. As you enter the town through the medieval gates, it seems you are entering any undistinguishable town that is overrun with ugliness – ugliness of town, the planning and the greed.   


The new bridge spoiling the skyline

That laid back Orchha of 2014 is gone - the causeway replaced with that long limbed bridge

2012

Jehangir Mahal in Orchha

You almost want to turn back. You want to keep those memories intact - memories of that perfect sunset over the Betwa. You don’t want those memories marred by this present all-encompassing ugliness. You almost miss the causeway that connects the town to Jehangir Mahal. The whole area is a nest of ugly buildings and vehicles. Few yards ahead, you finally get a glimpse of the past. The Mahal is doused with the golden light of the setting sun. Next time you are here, this view too would be lost.

Let’s see if the sunset can cheer you up. There is a glimmer of hope. These are Ganesh Visarjan days and people are bringing their adorable Bappas to be immersed in the Betwa. The way to the ghat is all dug up. Some development is happening to the pavements – that eternal bane of installing and digging. The causeway stone bridge that goes over the Betwa is closed or probably unusable now and decommissioned. A new pillared bridge is being constructed. Yes, they have killed this town and its vibe.

The clear waters of Betwa flow below the ghat. The town might have turned ugly, Betwa still remains beautiful and bountiful. The great square Cenotaphs of the Bundela rising over the banks stand guard here holding the memories of their occupants since time immemorial.

Today the ghat is full and colourful. Extended families dressed in their festive best are arriving to say goodbye to their favourite God, Lord Ganesh. Your gloomy mood soon lifts. You will spend the next hour going around the ghat clicking and interacting with the beautiful people and the Adorable God.

Ganesh Visarjan Photos

Intimate, low-key, bittersweet, melancholia mixed with joy, amidst an incredible backdrop of an ancient river, medieval cenotaphs and present uncertainty.

The Kanchana Ghat in Orchha


Orchha - An Early Scene from 2014

The Iconic Chhatris of the Bundela Kings - Orchha


Bidding Adieu to Lord Ganesh in Orchha












Clouds doing their thing over the Orchha Cenotaphs



Now time for one happy family portrait - Orchha
















The Sky Changes Colours Every Passing Moment


Finally Something Nice Happening in Orchha

An hour later you are in a much better mood. Later, looking at the past photos, the ghat has been paved and steps added. The Cenotaphs are now lit up as dusk descends. On the ghat, immersions continue and life goes on. Maybe you will give Orchha another chance. Orchha deserves another chance. But the people who brought this grotesquerie, they need the medieval treatment. In the meanwhile, Betwa, the beautiful, flows quietly in the dark.

References

Link of Aurangabad blogpost – when the revisit was beautiful

http://justrippingg.blogspot.com/2015/03/tripping-into-memory-lane-aurangabad.html

Betwa Sunset of Long Ago

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Betwa_at_Sunset_-_Orchha.JPG

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