Saturday, 1 October 2022

An Evening in Orchha - The Dangerous Return to an Early Scene in Life

Ganesh Visarjan in Betwa

September 2022

Few minutes into the drive from Jhansi to Orchha and you are fearing the worst. As you enter a decade of purposeful travel and now that you revisit places, some after a gap of many years, Paul Theroux words are coming true across India.

The decision to return to any early scene in your life is dangerous but irresistible, not as a search for the lost time but for the grotesquerie of what happened since. In most cases it is like meeting an old lover years later and hardly recognizing the object of desire in this pinched and bruised old fruit. We all live with fantasies of transformation. Live long enough and you see them enacted – the young made old, the road improved, houses where there were once fields - Paul Theroux in his travelogue ‘The Great Railway Bazaar’

That Sunset in Orchha long time ago - Circa 2012

2014


But Orchha? You always had this naïve belief that Orchha will stay a small outpost untouched by modern commercial exploitation and the word that you now abhor – ‘Development.’

As you drive along the half hour route south-east of Jhansi, you run into a new highway. You fear the worst – is the highway going through Orchha? Thankfully, the highway goes over and we come back to the old route after navigating the underpass. Ahead, an ugly underpass has been built below the railway line. It is slushy after the rains and cows use it for their evening group chats. Yes, there are just too many cows on the roads these days. And yes, the vibe of a tree lined country road is lost. Ahead, resorts and hotels line up both sides of the road. Everyone here is hell-bent on destroying this place. As you enter the town through the medieval gates, it seems you are entering any undistinguishable town that is overrun with ugliness – ugliness of town, the planning and the greed.   


The new bridge spoiling the skyline

That laid back Orchha of 2014 is gone - the causeway replaced with that long limbed bridge

2012

Jehangir Mahal in Orchha

You almost want to turn back. You want to keep those memories intact - memories of that perfect sunset over the Betwa. You don’t want those memories marred by this present all-encompassing ugliness. You almost miss the causeway that connects the town to Jehangir Mahal. The whole area is a nest of ugly buildings and vehicles. Few yards ahead, you finally get a glimpse of the past. The Mahal is doused with the golden light of the setting sun. Next time you are here, this view too would be lost.

Let’s see if the sunset can cheer you up. There is a glimmer of hope. These are Ganesh Visarjan days and people are bringing their adorable Bappas to be immersed in the Betwa. The way to the ghat is all dug up. Some development is happening to the pavements – that eternal bane of installing and digging. The causeway stone bridge that goes over the Betwa is closed or probably unusable now and decommissioned. A new pillared bridge is being constructed. Yes, they have killed this town and its vibe.

The clear waters of Betwa flow below the ghat. The town might have turned ugly, Betwa still remains beautiful and bountiful. The great square Cenotaphs of the Bundela rising over the banks stand guard here holding the memories of their occupants since time immemorial.

Today the ghat is full and colourful. Extended families dressed in their festive best are arriving to say goodbye to their favourite God, Lord Ganesh. Your gloomy mood soon lifts. You will spend the next hour going around the ghat clicking and interacting with the beautiful people and the Adorable God.

Ganesh Visarjan Photos

Intimate, low-key, bittersweet, melancholia mixed with joy, amidst an incredible backdrop of an ancient river, medieval cenotaphs and present uncertainty.

The Kanchana Ghat in Orchha


Orchha - An Early Scene from 2014

The Iconic Chhatris of the Bundela Kings - Orchha


Bidding Adieu to Lord Ganesh in Orchha












Clouds doing their thing over the Orchha Cenotaphs



Now time for one happy family portrait - Orchha
















The Sky Changes Colours Every Passing Moment


Finally Something Nice Happening in Orchha

An hour later you are in a much better mood. Later, looking at the past photos, the ghat has been paved and steps added. The Cenotaphs are now lit up as dusk descends. On the ghat, immersions continue and life goes on. Maybe you will give Orchha another chance. Orchha deserves another chance. But the people who brought this grotesquerie, they need the medieval treatment. In the meanwhile, Betwa, the beautiful, flows quietly in the dark.

References

Link of Aurangabad blogpost – when the revisit was beautiful

http://justrippingg.blogspot.com/2015/03/tripping-into-memory-lane-aurangabad.html

Betwa Sunset of Long Ago

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Betwa_at_Sunset_-_Orchha.JPG

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Sunday, 17 July 2022

‘Holi’Day in Delhi – of Annus Horibilis

18th March 2022

This Holi is different. So different that you almost bailed out of the annual tradition. It required great amounts of will to actually get into the car; almost the same amounts that it takes these days to pick groceries from the neighbourhood market after dilly-dallying over an average of three days. Yes, things have irrevocably changed.

Cotton Silk Trees twinning with DTC Cluster Buses

In these slowed-down reminiscing kind of days, it does not take trigonometry to figure out that you are now in the final one-third of this god-blessed life. And like the previous two one-thirds, things are going to be a little different in this phase of life too. But for now, let’s continue this annual tradition as long as you can still summon enough self-will while you can walk and almost run on your own power without twisting that ankle again which by the way still hasn’t healed even after three years of that evening in Imphal. Well, battle scars are badges to be worn with pride.

Bougainvillea in all its Holi Glory

On a successive hot Holi afternoon (last year’s Holi sizzled at 40 degrees), you have set out with one place in mind. Everything else will be mostly random. The self motivation took some time to materialize and you are leaving quite late. You turn left on the DND loop to take you north on the Ring Road. Usually, you use this short stretch to climb on the Barapullah elevated road but today you will continue on Ring Road to make sense of all the construction happening on this stretch.

Today's route takes you across major parts of Delhi

Delhi few days ago in all its brief Spring glory


On the right, Yamuna has more bridges and pillars than water flowing in it. Barapullah is being extended to Mayur Vihar. In the coming days, you will bypass the DND altogether riding Barapullah all the way to Lodhi Road. Delhi-Meerut Regional Rapid Transit System is rapidly taking shape with the station on the left and the viaduct approaching fast from the east over the dry river bed. Who really needs a flowing river when we can have all these bridges? What a waste of prime real estate. People to the south in Kalindi Kunj have realized how to utilize these priceless idling resources. Every time you cross the DND you can swear more multi-storeyed building blocks have come up overnight inching towards the rapidly receding river banks. Everyone is happy – politicians, law-enforcement agencies, goons.

The Delhi-Meerut RRTS starting point at Sarai Kale Khan 

Who really needs Yamuna and Aravallis and trees and wasted green spaces?

 

 The Waste to Wonder Park at Indraprastha Park


You are not sure if this part of the Indraprastha Park where you spent a late spring afternoon several years ago has still survived the concrete and development onslaught. You are poking around the safety view-breakers. The park got to be around here. And then you see the gate; the gate seems to be leading to our own Jurassic Park. This is the Waste to Wonder Park that has the wonders of the world crafted out of, well, waste. You have seen the photos of the lit Leaning Tower of Pisa and other monuments. Maybe some evening you will come here to see the Pyramids – fat chance!

Delhi turning into asphalt and concrete

Just beyond is the still surviving Indraprastha or the MillenniumPark with the interesting treescape. That post you wrote about the early summer trees is surprisingly one of your most read blogposts – go figure!

The Pragati Maidan Tunnel ramps on Ring Road


There is some more development work going on in New Delhi. Okay lots of it. Pragati Maidan was flattened and all the old state pavilions disappeared. In their place, blocks of airconditioned concrete are coming up. Underneath, a tunnel is being dug up, that will bring even more NCR cars into the heart of New Delhi. The RRTS will bring in more people from distant places on the train, and the tunnel will bring in more cars into Delhi. Great idea to decongest the capital. Two loops open onto the Ring Road. The walls of the tunnel have paintings. On the other side, majestic trees were uprooted to build more approach ramps. Yes, the capital needs more roads and ramps and cars. Again, the rhetorical question - Who needs trees and a river? You need to lighten up; you are becoming a cynic.

The fluttering Tricolur

Tricolours are coming up across the capital. The idea is that people feel patriotic when they see the flag fluttering majestically in the sky. But just below on the road, they continue to spit, throw chip packets out of the car windows, and jump red lights. You have a feeling that caning and sending them all for community service would better serve the country.


The Cotton-Silk trees have painted the town red. The sight of these blooms high up on these buttressed sprawling trees is a sign that you have just barely made it through another gruelling winter and nature is trying to tell you that the effort was worth it. From the top of a flyover, it seems red fireworks are being set off across the city. It is not easy being a Delhi denizen – virus, pollution, the winter, and the most dangerous, fellow denizens. The city is a set of Hunger Games and it takes all your survival instincts to make it through every single day.

Feroz Shah Kotla

Yes, this only happens on Holi afternoon - The iconic Vikas Minar



Every year the traffic on Holi afternoon seems to grow. Maybe, they too have caught on to your idea and are doing their own ‘Holi’Day runs. But on some stretches, you do manage to get shots when there is not a vehicle is in sight. This is a Delhi that harks back to those old days when this was normal during summer afternoons. When people would take refuge behind the chiks in their verandahs cooled by the air-coolers with khas khas and roohafza. Now pick any season or time of day and there is an endless stream of vehicles trying to get somewhere in this rapidly becoming restless city.


Rang Mahal of Red Fort across the street from Vijay Ghat




Planet of Pigeons




Vijay Ghat - Samadhi of 2nd PM Lal Bahadur Shastri (1904-1966) who coined Jai Jawan Jai Kisan

Smt Lalita Shastri's Samadhi (1911-1993)

Just opposite the Rang Mahal of Red Fort, across Mahatma Gandhi Marg is the Vijay Ghat gate. You remember visiting the samadhi of former PM Lal Bahadur Shastri few summers ago. Yes, you were surprised to see his wife Smt Lalita Devi’s samadhi too next to his. Well, today a congregation of pigeons has assembled outside the gates. You are not a great fan of these birds who have usurped the urban city just like the Vilayati Keekars have taken over the city’s greens. Poor sparrows have been de-domiciled out of their own city and are rarely seen now. Even crows fear to tread in this pigeon land. And like everywhere else, people buy grain and feed the pigeons as a collective gutar-goon crescendo rises under the afternoon skies.

The causeway connecting Red Fort to Salimgarh. Once, Yamuna used to flow below




Heading north on GT Road







You will turn left to ride the historical Grand Trunk Road through the Delhi University campus and the Vidhan Sabha. At Azadpur, you turn left on the Outer Ring Road to venture into parts of Delhi you rarely do. You are driving into Rohini, the sprawling mini-city built in north-west Delhi, a place you only read about in news once in a while. What does keep popping up is this place called Japanese Park. And Holi is the only day when you feel brave enough to come out this far to check out what this park is all about. Enough of Lodhi Garden and Nehru Park; it is time to visit the Japanese Park.


Swarn Jayanti Park or Japanese Park in Rohini, Delhi


Rohini seems to be well planned with network of colony streets and grown trees. The houses are a mix of low-rise apartments and independent houses and is quiet on the Holi afternoon. Google Maps leads you into the parking. You are looking for some sign that says ‘Japanese Park’ but there is none. Apparently, the official name of the park is Swarn Jayanti Park in Sector 10. Google Maps calls it Japanese Park but as far as you could investigate there is no such sign in the park. So how did the park get its name?


 DDA teaching us to Say No to Bribe!



The park has the usual paraphernalia of some Holi revellers in the throes of molasses derived beverages, defunct and muddy fountain pits dug in the name of development and concrete paths crisscrossing the park. Things soon start to look promising.

 Kachnar flowers

There are a few Cotton Silk trees still blooming. Just looking at those wholesome red blooms cheers you up. In the distance stars glint. The tree that you identify with Holi has made its appearance. The white Kachnar tree blooms above the canopy of the neighbouring trees. You still remember your wide-eyed wonder when you saw the Kachnar tree at the Oberoi Hotel gate on another Holi afternoon few springs ago. To you Kachnar reflects the sense of spring. Of course, spring has now deserted Delhi. It already seems like summer. Things are definitely changing.


 Japanese Park in Rohini, Delhi




A cricket match is underway in the clearing on the left. Just beyond is a heartwarming view; something that you have not seen in Delhi parks. A standalone grove of fig trees invites you to this island of green and tranquility. Walking beneath the canopy is a feeling that is hard to describe - a low murmur of chirping birds, leaves whispering to the breeze and the afternoon sun trying to pierce the tangle of branches above. You could make this your home right here.

But the question is bothering you. So you ask one of the boys why this park is called Japanese Park. He is not sure but provides a believable reason. The park is laid out like a Japanese park. You have not visited any parks in Japan so you really cannot verify the claim but it sounds good enough. The park deserves another visit when you can explore the trees in summer time. But before that you need to visit the Shalimar Garden again where Aurangzeb was coronated and is a treasure house of trees.






The brick St Martin's Church in Delhi Cantt


Heading towards Dhaula Kuan and into New Delhi which is more familiar



Gyarah Murti on Willingdon Crescent



Teen Murti with petunia carpets




From here you will try to make the return trip turn into a circuit as you drive through places in West Delhi and then Delhi Cantonment. Holi afternoon is incomplete without the mandatory drive on Willingdon Crescent where the lifetime worth of memories reside in the statues, the trees, the lawns and the now abandoned houses of Traffic Police Lines.


Spreading Happiness


Rashtrapati Bhawan glows in the twilight just beyond the Teen Murti roundabout bedecked in fragrant petunias. You don’t have the heart to venture into the Vijay Chowk area where concrete is being poured into the green spaces. You turn back home.



Full moon glows brightly over Barapullah. While life changes around you, the moon shines as brilliantly as it did on Holi evenings even before Holi came into being. This constant stir in your being calms down. The moon seems to be smiling. We are transitory, like the waxing and waning phases of moon. These pushes and pulls will continue. Tides will ebb and flow.  

 

Epilogue: Incidentally, this Holi piece is the most delayed. In the past editions, the Holi post would announce the inauguration of blog writing season. While the saying goes, mind is willing but the flesh is weak; this time both mind and flesh were weak and you spent your hours and days discovering the charms of Malayalam cinema – a late comer to the OTT party. And like every time a tech revolution happens you are the last one to get aboard the boat. You are getting into the groove. Finally, you order groceries on the 30 min delivery app. No more dilly-dallying to get to the neighborhood market. You are ready for the big bad world of tech playing out on the screens. It is time now you went back to the good old days of discovering the charms of life on the road and of writing.

 

References:

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/delhi/delhi-pragati-maidan-tunnel-opens-for-traffic/articleshow/92341042.cms

Related Links on this Blog

A 'Holi'Day in the life of Delhi 2018

A 'Holi'Day in the life of Delhi 2015

A 'Holi'Day in the life of Delhi 2016

 

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