The
Great Gujarat Road Odyssey – Day 11
Chapter 1 – Porbandar’s Huzoor Palace
Porbandar’s
chowpatty is an experience. You want to see more of the birds from last
evening. You are back early in the morning. The gulls keep the scene exciting
as they swoop across the beachfront in waves. The rising sun spreads gold on
the water. Waves froth up the rocky shore.
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| Porbandar Chowpatty early morning |
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| Porbandar Chowpatty: flying Gulls |
Before
leaving Porbandar, you will swing by the Huzoor Palace, built facing the sea on
Marine Drive just behind the chowpatty. Huzoor Palace or Huzar Palace is
another palace dotting the princely state scene of Gujarat. This palace here
was built in early 20th century by the last Jethwa ruler and
Maharaja of Porbandar, a 13 gun salute state, Rana Natwarsinhji Bhavsinhji
(Reign 1908-48).
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| Huzoor Palace, Porbandar, Gujarat |
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| Porbandar: Huzoor Palace |
The
grounds look forlorn and the gate is locked. There is something about rundown
and desolate palaces that is painful and sends a twinge of melancholy through you.
A gatekeeper appears. You ask for permission to enter. After a while,
permission is apparently granted from someone inside and you enter the
premises. You are not sure if the descendants still live here. The stone used
and the architecture is similar to the palaces you have seen in Gujarat. You
take few photos and when you are unable to bear this lingering weight of the
past in the air, you leave.
Chapter 2 - Dhoraji
After
three days hugging the coastline from Narayan Sarovar, today you are moving
inland into Kathiawar towards this town that has supposedly a wonder.
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| Teen Darwaja, Dhoraji |
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| Dhoraji: Tran Darwaja |
On
the way there is a small town of Dhoraji. Like Jamnagar, Dhoroji too has a Teen
Darwaja or Tran Darwaja. Rest of the town is all dug up. There is something about
towns in Gujarat. They are all dusty. And dust kills your travel mojo. Just
like it did in Bet Dwarka. There is a place called Darbargarh here with a beautiful
gate. You need to get out of this place. The roads across the state are good
that makes the travel between these dusty towns a breeze.
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| Palash flowers blooming amidst coriander fields |
Chapter 3 – Jetpur
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| Jetpur is a textile town and is famous for its cotton sarees |
Jetpur
is another small town on the way to Gondal, built on the western bank of Bhadar River. And now you discover another nugget
about the town; yes Pankaj Udhas was born here! The town is not dug up yet. So
you will get out and meet a local connection Rambhai Barot, a genealogist of Jetpur
royalty. Rambhai will show you some havelis with some wonderful woodwork and stonework.
Jetpur
was ruled by the Jaitani Talukdars of the Vala dynasty. You are not sure if it was a full-fledged
princely state but apparently, the rulers made enough money to build these richly
carved wooden and stone havelis.
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| The Jetpur Surprise |
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| The walled city of Jetpur |
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| The Jharokhas or the Oriel Windows take astonishing shapes in Saurashtra |
Rambhai
is walking you through the streets. The streets are narrow with occasional cows
and two wheelers. And now that you are getting a feel it, Jetpur is a walled
city with gateways. Some digging is going on in the streets. Without digging,
an Indian town is just not the same. Most houses and shops have turned new.
Only a few old havelis survive.
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| The Darbargadh Wood Marvel of Jetpur |
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| Jetpur - Darbargadh of Talukdars |
The
first surprise is the derelict three storey structure now in ruins at the end
of another lane in the walled city. This is the Darbargarh of the Talukdars,
loosely translated as a palace. It is a stone and wood composite structure with
some eye popping wooden carvings and decoration. While the havelis you have
seen, usually have carved wooden doors and windows only. Here the wooden brackets, pillars, capitals and floor beams add an extra dimension to the
structure. Sadly, like most havelis, the wood wonder is rapidy falling apart.
The shingle roof has collapsed exposing the wooden elements to weather. The entire structure is on verge of collapsing.
It is
just a matter of time before the present owners, whoever they are, decide to sell
off the elements to some Delhi socialite’s under construction farmhouse and
giving her right to boast of her new acquisitions at the parties.
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| Jetpur: Chapraja Vala Palace |
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| Look at those ornate windows |
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| Jetpur Palace |
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| Remains of the base of the Oriel Windows - It is a type of Bay Window adopted by Saurashtra Rajwadas from France |
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| Another Oriel Window - this building is a gem |
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| Jeptpur: The gate decoration at Chapraja Vala Palace |
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| Rambhai - Thank you so much |
You
are back in the lanes and this time arrive at this corner stately stone structure
with Corinthian pillars and a large gate. While the Darbargarh was local, wood and ethnic, the Chapraja Vala Palace is all European and stone. The palace is named after
the valiant ruler Shri Chapraj Vala, whose statue riding a horse stands in the
city square and whose bravery stories are remembered even today. Every square inch of this rapidly deteriorating facade is a marvel. Every Oriel window is an architect's delight. The carved base of the corner oriel window is mindboggling. It looks like a bouquet of flowers. You can just pace up and down the narrow street and gawk.
James Burgess laments in his 'Report on the
Antiquities of Kathiawad and Kachh, 1874-75:' Public Works and Italian workmen are doing their best to kill native art, and in the larger and wealthier towns of Gujarat with fatal effect, by erecting palaces for the chiefs, in a foreign style, badly imitated and unsuited to the climate or the age: and this example is rapidly being copied in less prominent places by native workmen.
Jetpur was probably not a state in the true sense. So the rulers limited themselves to build these palaces within the confines of the old city. But they would have hired some fancy European architect and builder. You are sure if they had more headroom, their palace could have rivalled the Gondal palace.
After
the tour, Rambhai brings you home and treats you to a sumptuous Gujarati
lunch. Told you, Gujarati people are the most friendly and nicest folks. Now
only if the men stopped painting their pinky finger nail.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A heartbreaking update: A friend from Gujarat upon seeing this post on Facebook informs that this palace is no more. He doesn't know how but the building collapsed and now there is no palace. All gone. Just like that.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Chapter 4 – Virpur
Virpur
is another small town on the way and you will stop here for a quick look at the
Minaldevi Vav built by Minaldevi, the mother of Chalukyan King Jayasimha
Siddharaja (reign 1092-1142). An interesting trivia – Jayasimha was Prithviraj
Chauhan’s great grandfather!
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| Shri Maneshwar Mahadev Mandir, Virpur |
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| Minaldevi Ni Vav, Virpur, Rajkot, Gujarat |
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| Minaldevi Vav, Virpur |
Structure-wise, the vav seems to be in good shape
though the sculptures in the niches erode, which sadly afflicts the yellow stone
used in the construction across Gujarat. While the vav would subsist the
village in a different era, today the water in the well reeks and is full of
trash thrown by the dutiful devotees as part of their worship. We will never
learn.
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| The faithful Chakda on Gujarat roads |
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| The roads are a breeze in Gujarat |
Chapter 5 – Gondal
Besides
doing other things, the Thakur Sahibs built several palaces in the city. Parking
your vehicle outside the old city (the best decision of the day as you will
find out later) you walk the winding road to Darbargadh in Moti Bazar. A huge
clock tower with fortified walls greets you. Buying entry ticket you walk into
the grounds to come face to face with the wonder. A palace that apparently cost
nine lakh rupees sits majestically with an astonishing façade.
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| Gondal: Navlakha Palace |
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| Navlakha Palace of Gondal - A Beautiful Stone Frieze |
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| Gondal: The ornate facade of Navlakha Palace |
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| Love these jharokhas - you saw them in Prag Mahal in Bhuj and in Jetpur |
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| Navlakha Palace: The first floor courtyard or baradari |
Navlakha
Palace is the crowning glory of Gondal palaces and probably the most surprising
unknown palace in Gujarat, a state packed with popular palaces in Baroda, Mandvi, Bhuj and elsewhere. The palace built in 1875, on the banks of River Gondal and which cost Rs. Nine Lacs and hence its name, is like a beautiful canvas of stone. The architecture is muted, does
not overwhelm and looks intimate in a setting of courtyard with trees. Sculpted
pillars, arches, protruding images of animals, ornate jharokhas and the lavishly ornamented parapet
on the first floor come together to create a charming edifice that downplays
grandness and would almost feel like home if they allowed you to live in it.
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| This is the cutest exhibit you have ever seen in a palace |
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| Children Nursery in Navlakha Palace |
The
smartly dressed personnel take you on a guided tour through the rooms with the
usual paraphernalia of chandeliers, stuffed animals and photos of the royal
family. Never seen before, Children Nursery, sourced from Europe with life size
dolls is the best exhibit in the museum section of Darbar.
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| Within a few minutes the streets are flooded on this evening in Gondal |
It
is nearing 5 pm and there is buzz going through the grounds. The complex will
be closed a little earlier since a local festival is about to start and which
means crowds and vehicles will gather on the streets. So even as you sprint
through the street, crowds are already converging. If you had brought your car
inside here you would have been stuck on the street looking at the
Darbargarh clock tower all night.
How
can a small town like Gondal have so many people? You keep asking this question
across India. We do have too many people in this country.
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| India never ceases to amaze - Sagramsinhji High School in Gondal, Rajkot, Gujarat |
So
while the Old City is being devoured by the crowds, rest of the city has
emptied out giving you some time to visit another wonder, the Sagramsinhji High School that is reportedly modelled on England's Eaton.
Chapter
6 – Khambhalida
On
your way to Junagadh, you will make a detour to Khambhalida Buddhist Caves. Sun
has set by the time you reach the caves that are also called Shail Caves.
For
a change, the gated complex is well looked after and is away from any
settlement. Out of a group of fifteen caves, the east facing three caves are dug
out from this small hillock in an area that is generally plain and are dated to
4th-5th Century. The Bhadar river flows close by. There
is supposed to be a spring here too. These surveyors of ancient times had a
real knack of finding these spots to make the cave temples.
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| Khambhalida Buddhist Caves |
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| Khambhalida: Eroded Stupa in the central cave |
The
central cave is a chaitya with a worn out stup. The entrance has two large
images on each side along with depiction of Ashoka tree – Avalokiteshvara Padmapani
on the right and Avalokiteshvara Vajrapani on the left. The Vajrapani sculpture
is supposed to be oldest in India. The depiction of Boddhisattva Avalokiteshvara
is the only example in Gujarat in cave architecture.
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| Khambhalida: The Buddhist Caves Complex |
Just
like the stone structures elsewhere in Gujarat, the stone here too is eroding
fast. ASI has installed some iron bracket supports. For the chaitya griha a
porch like structure has been constructed to protect the relief sculptures. A
modern temple is coming up in the vicinity and with it will come hordes of
tourists. Why don’t we leave such spots alone?
Hsieun
Tsang had visited the Siyot cave complex in Kutch; did he come here too?
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| Majevadi Gate of Junagadh - seems like since then it has been renovated (would not use the word 'restore' since this is Gujarat) |
It
is dark by the time you leave Khambhalida. It is night when you enter the city
gates of Junagadh.
Another night. Another city.
The
journey continues.
Day's Stats
- Route Taken – Travel east on NH 27 to Gondal via Dhoraji and
Jetpur. From Gondal come back west and take a detour to Khambalida Caves.
And then to Junagadh on NH 151
- Distance covered today – 245 kms
- Total Distance covered so far - 2897 kms
References
Gazetteer of the British Presidency, Vol VIII, Kathiawar – Page 457 - Jetpur, Page 688 - Virpur, Gondal - Page 444, Dhoraji - Page 417 and other towns and cities of Kathiawar
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