March 2015
Delhi is best explored in the afternoon of Holi. The weather is perfect. Roundabouts of Lutyens’ Delhi are a riot of colour. Roads are empty as people are busy getting grease out of their hair. Remaining folks are in stupor from the after effects of bhaang thandai. As evening descends Delhites wake up and make their way to Rajpath.
Delhi is best explored in the afternoon of Holi. The weather is perfect. Roundabouts of Lutyens’ Delhi are a riot of colour. Roads are empty as people are busy getting grease out of their hair. Remaining folks are in stupor from the after effects of bhaang thandai. As evening descends Delhites wake up and make their way to Rajpath.
Well there were some Holi Revellers on the Road! |
You leave Noida Gate to enter Delhi.
Usually this place is screaming with vehicles. Today you stop to take photos.
Noida Gate - Entering the City of Future |
Crossing the Nizamuddin Bridge, brings you
to Purana Qila walls. The Qila-i-Kohna Mosque looms majestically over the
Pragati Maidan Parking.
Qila-i-Kohna Mosque built by Sher Shah Suri in Purana Qila - One of the prettiest mosques in Delhi |
At the Bhairon Nath Ji Pandav Temple, where devotees offer liquor, the
beggars are more than usually tipsy and happy.
As you turn right on Sher Shah Marg towards India Gate, you see some repair work has started to prop up the Lal Darwaza. ASI has finally woken up.
Lal Darwaza or Sher Shah Gate |
As you turn left
on the India Gate hexagon, the Jaipur House built in 1936, now housing the National Gallery of Modern
Art with Amrita Shergill’s self portraits, looks regal. You will visit it again
in leisure.
National Gallery of Modern Art |
As you head towards Teen Murti, excitement
grows. These are the streets you grew up on and spent your first nineteen years.
Teen Murti is where you rolled down the grass embankments feeling the cool grass on your face during summers of long ago.
Teen Murti |
And went wide eyed looking up at the stars in the planetarium in Nehru
Museum, formerly Viceroy's House.
Teen Murti and Nehru Museum |
Rashtrapati Bhawan - View from Teen Murti |
Rashtrapati Bhawan
peeps at the end of wide boulevards. South Avenue is
where you came to get DMS milk and later Mother Dairy vegetables.
Rashtrapati Bhawan - View from South
Avenue
|
You find
yourself near your old school in Chanakya Puri. The only piece of popular
culture of your generation, the Chanakya Theatre is gone. We have fond memories of Chanakya & Nirula’s - James Bond movies
after your boards and burger at Nirula's. You want to see what has
replaced it.
Apparently some multiplex / mall is taking its place. In today's world, there is no place for sentiments.
Apparently some multiplex / mall is taking its place. In today's world, there is no place for sentiments.
New Construction at site of Chanakya
theatre
|
The area had two big hotels - Ashok Hotel few kms
away and Akbar Hotel next to Chanakya. You have no idea what fate has befell
Akbar Hotel. You can see laundry drying in the balconies!
Laundry hanging from balconies of Akbar Hotel |
In an apparently vacant lot, the swish Leela Palace Hotel has come up.
Leela Palace Hotel in Chanakya Puri |
Just beyond,
Nehru Park stretches along the entire length of Niti Marg on one side and Vinay
Marg on the other. Nehru Park has so many memories. During summer weekends you would come here for ice cream. School picnics were held here. You can still see yourself rolling down the grass mounds. Sometimes all you have are memories.
Nehru Park in Chanakya Puri New Delhi |
You are lucky or what? NDMC is holding its fourth annual flower show.
First Prize Winner – at Nehru Park New
Delhi
|
Almost look
like roses!
|
Flowery Zoo!
|
It is time to move to the embassies area of Chanakya Puri. The Diplomatic Enclave is as pristine and colourful as it was when you bicycled along these roads on
your way to school.
Diplomatic Enclave in Chanakya Puri, New Delhi |
A new entrant
into the embassy scene – Embassy of the State of Palestine
The windows in the British School look interesting.
You see signs
for Karol Bagh which lies just beyond the ridge that runs like the backbone
across Delhi. What! You have not seen Buddha Jayanti Park even once!? Well
its beautiful; families are out enjoying their post Holi picnic on the grounds.
You cross
Talkatora Stadium and turn into North Avenue. Rashtrapati Bhawan is again
peeping from the far end. You have driven 180 degrees. It looks majestic
whichever way you look at it.
You turn left
into Church Road. On the left is easily the most handsome looking church in
Delhi - Cathedral Church of Redemption.
Cathedral Church of Redemption, Church Road, New Delhi |
Directly
opposite, in the President Estate is the Jaipur Column.
Parliament
House comes into view.
On the right
is Central Secretariat – a major bus stand in those days. Still remember taking
bus to school and practically everywhere to Delhi from here.
Central Secretariat |
Behind you on
on the left is Gurudwara Rakab Ganj Sahib.
Gurudwara Rakab Ganj Sahib |
Flashing
lights of a cavalcade push you away to a side road – no photos as you are not
sure when the trigger might go off but you happen to see an interesting looking building.
On the Sansad
Marg the familiar looking RBI building comes into view.
Reserve Bank of India Building at Sansad Marg |
Dusk is
setting in and you run along Rafi Marg and Raisina Road to come to Vijay Chowk.
You reach in nick of time as the molten Sun drops behind the Raisina Hill.
It is a an awe-inspiring view and never fails to amaze you - the best view in
the world.
Down the
Rajpath, India Gate beckons.
And then the
event you were waiting for, finally happens. The brilliant moon appears in the
skies. It seems to be suspended over the road and looks beautiful.
Crossing
Yamuna, you see the Akshardham Temple twinkling.
Akshardham Temple in Delhi |
A little
ahead, you climb the Mayur Vihar overbridge for a better view of the lights.
Looking
towards Akshardham - the temple is on the left
|
The metro
goes whizzing on the right.
You take this walk around New Delhi every year around Holi for the
familiar roads, the landmarks, the flower ornamented roundabouts, the vibe, the
trees, the red sandstone and the sameness. While Delhi changes beyond
imagination elsewhere, here you always find the same familiar Delhi. The Delhi
that grows younger every year. The Delhi you always dream of - when it comes to
homes, you always dream of your home at Teen Murti. It is your annual
homecoming that feels like the warm, fuzzy, sunshiny blanket on your face. The
walk brings back the memories of childhood days when the biggest worry was
being chased by gardeners as you played cricket on the green carpeted road side.
Going to New Delhi is like a taking a trip in a time capsule. It is indescribably cathartic and rejuvenating. Now only if you forget to find your way back.
Related Links
Holi Day 2016
Holi Day 2018
Thanks for lovely photographs complemented by description of a line or two and at times none or more! Even when I have no childhood connect with the city this blog makes me feel as if I was a fellow-traveller while these pictures were taken. I had come here first time when I was 18 years of age with parents as a Gujarati tourist. Then again only in 2003 to study for MA Social Work at The University of Delhi. Since then a lot of change I have seen. The blogger's association with the city is in deed longer by all means. This comes alive in each line he shares. Thank you for showing such beauty of your city!
ReplyDeleteHi Krinna,
DeleteDelhi belongs to all of us - whether you were born here or you have settled here later or you studied here. Since ages, when it seemed Delhi would die off, it would rise - stronger and more beautiful. It is a lesson for all of us.
Thanks for reading and keep walking Delhi. Delhi will love you for that.
Regards
ReplyDeleteWhat an amazing piece Nirdesh bhai.
As you said, it really felt like a journey through a time capsule.
It was like reading my own story; having spent good 12 years in CP/Gole-Market/Mandir Marg area, took me back in time; Talkatora Garden/Indoor stadium , that swimming pool, and regency area with artificial waterfall, those domes near regency area overlooking the Shanker Road ridge, President estate, Birla Mandir,.
And going to Chanakya was our favorite activity during college time, and your mention of ‘James Bond’ movie flooded my mind with tons of memories; the opening sequence of ‘Golden Eye’ flashed before my eyes, and the spending time at Nirula’s fighting over HCF, and that Nehru Park.
Teen murti, Rastrapati Bhawan, North Avenue, South Ave, wellington crescent, and Central Sectariat ( Daftar in DTC language :-)
I can go on and on, so I better stop.
Yeh aapne accha nahi kiya, aaj ka saara din gaya beeteon dinon mein :-)
Hi Stone,
DeleteI remember you went delirious on my Qila Rai Pithora post on Ghumakkar. And you are again on a nostalgia trip now! Delhi has the knack of bringing up such memories.
Yes, remember all those days so vividly – my first 19 years before we moved out of Central Delhi.
I like going on these trips of beete dino!
Cheers,
Nirdesh
Sold to Delhi-hook, line and sinker.So were the dogs bhanged out on justtripping!!
ReplyDeleteHi Aparna,
DeleteTime you went tripping in Delhi to see what you bought! Yes me and the dogs bhaanged out on justrippingg.
Have fun!
Nirdesh,
ReplyDeleteThis is an amazing set of pictures, superb!!
Brought back some memories of my stay Delhi late 70s.
Feel like visiting Delhi again.
Regards.
Hi Siddeshwar,
DeleteThanks - i know they would get you on a nostalgia trip. Do come visit. Delhi waits for you!
Regards