Cambodia – More Indian than India - Part II

Trippingg Abroad

Siem Reap – The Temple Wonderland

Part II

The Groom and His Bride – Mind It

Never before a temple complex has left you bewildered, awed, flustered, and soaking in sweat all in a matter of couple of hours. You finally find your way out of the maze, perplexed and little annoyed as if your brain has been put in a centrifuge and spun. This is the central temple of Bayon built by Jayavarman VII in his city of Angkor Thom – an inscription describes Jayavarman as the Groom and the City as his Bride.

 

Bayon Temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia

The fantastic fishes and animals - Bas reliefs on Bayon walls

Yes, Jayavarman VII was on a construction spree, but here in Bayon it seems even the architects went into an overdrive and packed everything that they learned from the centuries of building here in the Khmer Empire. Walking inside the galleries and passages is not easy. The galleries run on several levels – sometimes you are caught in total darkness and then you emerge into narrow passages under the sweltering sun. Some passages have collapsed, while some are being propped up. It is quite possible that the temple saw construction under successive kings and then turned into this dense inscrutable place.

The enigmatic faces on temple shikhars - Bayon Temple, Cambodia

When you are not watching your step or trying not banging your head on the low overhanging roof, you will look up to see one of the most amazing elements seen anywhere in a temple. Smiling faces look at the surroundings from every tower. Tonle Om provided a glimpse of what was to come. You will stop dumbfounded every now and then. And then you will raise your camera to click – but the tight spaces, alternating dark and fiercely bright spaces will make photography as confounding as trying to make sense of this. This will need several visits over several days including with a guide to decipher a bit of this.

The State Temple of Bayon or Jayagiri (Victory Mountain or Mountain of Brahma) in City Capital of Angkor Thom, Buddhist, established by Jayavarman VII, late 12th - early 13th century, Siem Reap, Cambodia - Conservation being done with support from Japan

The Capital of Koh Ker

In the tradition of earlier capitals of Mahendraparvat, Hariharalaya (late 8th CE), Yoshodharapura (late 9th CE), Jayavarman IV too would establish his capital rivalling the other Khmer capital of Angkor. The site was laid out according to Hindu vaastu concept symbolising the universe. The site was found hidden in the forests between Dangrek and Kulen mountains, eighty kms NE of Angkor.

Prasat Krachap, Koh Ker, Cambodia

The sprawling sacred site has a number of temples and sanctuaries and will see groundbreaking initiatives like using monolithic stone blocks, a number of inscriptions in large fonts, wall paintings, hydraulic structures and some huge images, most of which were looted and are being gradually repatriated.

Skand on his Peacock

Child Skand with Father Lord Shiv

Prasat Krachap Temple in Koh Ker (Lingapura or Chok Gargyar) capital established in 921 by Jayavarman IV (ruled 928-941), dedicated to Lord Shiv, conservation work by UNESCO, Kulen District, Preah Vihear Province, Cambodia

Sometimes the Apsara Too Needs to Let Her Hair Down

It is not easy holding the demure and mysterious look with all that jewellery and hair-do. Even the Apsaras need a break. It is said, early morning, when the crowds have left for their hotels after enjoying the sunrise, Apsaras quickly change into street clothes and comfortable sneakers and slip out of the gates into the city. Some go into the woods to have a me-time away from the tourists. They usually go in ones or twos so as not to attract attention.

The Apsara of Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

You thought this was just another apocryphal story associated with most historical sites. You are here for the second time. So, you just wait in the shadows as the first golden light falls on this corner of the central courtyard. And then the sculpture begins to take form of a life even as you watch spell-bound and dumb-struck. It is only when the Apsara begins to walk away you remember to raise the camera and click. A proof is needed otherwise this cynic world would never believe.

As it happened, Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Koh Ker – Another Surprise

Just like the capitals of Angkor and Angkor Thom, Koh Ker is sprawling (81 sqkm) and full of surprises. There are 184 temples here (mapped by Japanese researchers) but since the area is wooded and mined, only about 25 or so temples are accessible to visitors. You can see warning signs for mines and signs where areas have been cleared of mines. Most of the temples you visited were ruined and were undergoing conservation efforts. Since Koh Ker was capital for a brief period and because of its distant location, the temples remained Hindu while temples in Angkor and Angkor Thom would keep changing depending on the state religion.

Temple complexes in the grounds of Koh Ker, Cambodia

Temples in Koh Ker (Lingapura or Chok Gargyar) capital established in 921 by Jayavarman IV (ruled 928-941), dedicated to Lord Shiv, conservation work by UNESCO, Kulen District, Preah Vihear, Cambodia

Yashovarman’s Capital of Yashodharapura

On the road to Tonle Om causeway with the Sagarmanthan depiction, stop on the left. Signs indicate this is the Bakheng Temple. All you can see is a wooded mountain. The second capital of Yashodharpura was centred at this Bakheng Mountain, north-west of the first capital in Rolous. According to a Sanskrit inscription, the mountain was called Sri Yasodharagiri and in ancient Khmer, it was called Phnom Kandal or Central Mountain.

Phnom Bakheng, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Nandi looking at his master on the hill

A fifteen-minute climb brings you to the top as you enjoy the scenic views of the woods and monuments on the way with the spires of Angkor Wat rising to the south-east. If Angkor Wat is the place to view the sun-rise, Bakheng is where the visitors come to witness the sun-set. These are cloudy days and dusk falls early. You still have some motivation left to come here after spending a sweltering day getting wowed by Angkor Wat. The temple has been undergoing restoration for the past twenty years with the support of World Monuments Fund and US State Department. Restoration is time-taking since the scale of ruins is as huge as the temples themselves here in Cambodia.

On top of Bakheng Temple in SiemReap

Bakheng again symbolises Mount Meru, the centre of Hindu Universe. While Bakong sits on flat ground, Bakheng is built on the mountain - each of the seven tiers of the pyramidal temple is built on the side of the natural mountain. Wooden steps have been installed to bring the visitors directly to the top. The top tier has a central shrine with four on the corners. A total of 108 subsidiary shrines are built on the seven levels.

Since the evening does not bring the promise of a sun-set, most visitors have left. You tiptoe around trying to make sense of the shrines in the dark. Bakong and Bakheng are quite similar. A lingam is spotted. Away from India, Cambodia seems so close and similar.

Phnom Bakheng Temple dedicated to Lord Shiv, Capital of Yashodharapura, established by King Yashovarman I (889-910), late 9th Century, Siem Reap, Cambodia

The Apsara Wonderland

We have Scorpion Woman of Khajuraho, Madanika of Ramappa Temple, Shalabhanjika of Sanchi, Yakshi of Mathura, Darpan Sundari of Rani ni Vav, Alaskanya of Konark and many more celestial nymphs. Khmer temples have their Apsaras. It is said there are about 1850 Apsaras carved on walls, pillars and ceilings of Angkor Wat.

The pretty Apsaras on the walls of Angkor Wat, Cambodia

You have not had time to study the apsaras but just like India, there would be categorization of these celestial nymphs. None of them look similar and are adorned with elaborate head-dresses, hairdos, jewellery and see-through skirts with interesting trains. They don’t smile but they do have beguiling looks which will be interesting to decipher. There is only one Apsara who is smiling and showing teeth!

The Authority that is now looking after maintenance and conservation of the temples, Authority for the Protection and Safeguarding of Angkor and the Region of Angkor has its acronym APSARA. While some sculptures are okay there are many that are seeing the effects of time and nature and are decaying. The restoration work is being done with support of Germany – GACP (German Apsara Conservation Project).

The Apsaras (also called Devtas) of Angkot Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

The Storytelling Walls of Angkor Wat

If Indian temples are all about iconography and life-like sculptures, Khmer temples are all about beautiful relief friezes on pediments and walls.

Most motifs in temples here are based on Mahabharat and Ramayan. In Angkor, along the inner walls of the outer galleries run magnificent relief work inspired by mythology. Originally, the reliefs would have colour as some traces of red colour are seen. The work done during Suryavarman II is the best while some walls were finished after his death and lack the skill of previous ones.

Eye-popping relief carvings along the outer hallways - Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

The death of Bhishm in Mahabharat - Relief on walls of Angkor Wat Temple

An iconography-head can perhaps spend days going over each yard and the three tiers of vertical reliefs. You are not sure if relief work is done before building the wall or is done after the stones have been placed. Either way relief sculpture takes as much skill as the 3D sculptures. Some themes featured here are: Swarg & Narak (Heaven and Hell), Sagarmanthan, Procession of Suryavarman II, War between Asurs and Lord Krishna, Battles of Kurukshetra and Lanka.

Signs with identification of major events and personalities help an ignorant like you and this is what is special about museums and heritage places abroad – they are both aesthetic and full of information, qualities that we lack in our country.

Bas Relief Friezes of Angkor Wat, 600 metres in four galleries, early 12th century, Cambodia

Beng Mealea – Heap of Stones

Beng Mealea is simply a glorious heap of stones in stately ruin. All this is quite unbelievable. When you are still trying to figure out how he was able to build Angkor Wat in thirty years or so considering the scale of construction, here is Suryavarman replicating the feat in Beng Mealea. The temple is as large as Angkor Wat with a similar plan.

The ruined wonderland - Beng Melea, Cambodia

And if Angkor Wat is largely intact, what calamity befell here that nothing substantial seems to have survived. Was it a construction deficiency? Or maybe the temple fell off the radar and the worship and royal patronage shifted to Angkor Wat? Why would Suryavarman build as big a temple? The Great Kings of Khmer Empire did have an incurable itch to binge build. Was this temple a prototype to later construct Angkor Wat? He would also build Phimai and Phanom Rung temples, both in Thailand.

The richly carved pediment of Beng Melea, Cambodia

Conservation, whenever it starts, is going to be a monumental task. For now, the archaeologists are just trying to find some answers buried under the heaps of brick-like cut sandstone heaps. The jungle mist hangs heavy over Beng Mealea.

Beng Mealea – Temple of Lotus Pond, Hindu-Buddhist, 12th Century, built by Suryavarman II (r 1113-1150) or Paramavishnuloka, about 60km NE of Angkor Wat, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia

Charge of the Elephant Brigade

Angkor Thom is full of wonders and they never stop coming. Next to the entrance of Baphuon Temple is the Elephant Terrace that was part of the Palace of Phimeanakas. The Terrace looked out into the Central Square. The King would sit here inspecting his armies as they returned victorious. This was also a public audience hall. In the middle, the terrace has Garuds and Lions while the outer flanks has elephants.

The Elephant Terrace in Angkor Thom, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Bayon has the enigmatic Smiling Faces, Baphuon has some interesting reliefs, this terrace shows a parade of elephants. This needs to be figured out if the elephants were carved after placing the stones on the platform or were the stones carved first and then placed to form the platform of the terrace. Wonders in Angkor Thom will keep coming.

Extensive restoration work is going on. It all looks scientific and aesthetic. A shed has been installed over the work area to protect the workers from the heat. From what you can see, currently the Nag balustrade is getting new pieces.

Eastern Flank of Elephant Terrace, built during the times of Jayavarman VII, The Great (1122-1218), Angkor Thom, Cambodia

Jayavarman’s Capital of Hariharalaya

Before entering the last capital of Angkor Thom, let us go back in time and visit the first capital. A thirty-minute drive to the south-east of Angkor Wat brings you to Rolous where the first capital of Hariharalaya was established around the temple of Bakong, just north of Tonle Sap Lake.

Just like Angkor Wat, the flagship temples were depicted as Mount Meru. The inspiration might have come from India but here the Cambodians let their creativity soar. While Angkor Wat and temples in India have spires or shikhars denoting peaks, here multi-tiered pyramidal architecture is used in the first two capitals.

Bakong Temple - Siem Reap, Cambodia

The temple is built in a beautiful setting that reminds you of Sukhothai in Thailand. Dusk is approaching and you have the temple to yourself. Chanting from the active Buddhist monastery on the grounds fill the rapidly darkening skies. On top of the five-tiered pyramid is the central shrine that reminds you of Angkor Wat. As you look around from the top, the central temple is surrounded by beautiful subsidiary brick temples. Some are in excellent repair while others are undergoing restoration.

Bakong Temple - Siem Reap, Cambodia

These are beautiful moments. You wish you had time to explore the grounds and the other two temples here in Rulous. But that is what you seem to be running out of here in Cambodia. So much to see and so little time.

Bakong Temple dedicated to Shiv, Pre-Angkor, late 8th Century, Hariharalaya capital established by Jayavarman II (810-850), Siem Reap, Cambodia

Temple Run Continues

A successor to Bakheng Temple, Pre Rup is again monumental and pyramidal. Unlike Bakheng it is built on plain ground and like Bakheng it has several towers or shrines built on the different tiers. While Bakheng is quite ruined, Pre Rup is in better condition with surviving Gopuras on the four sides.

Pre Rup Temple, Cambodia

It is still morning but the sun is already burning hot. There is a long list of temples to visit on the last day here in Siem Reap. You will give climbing to the top a miss. Back to tuk-tuk and to the next temple.

Timeline of Temples so far

Bakong, Lord Shiv, King Jayavarman II (810-850)

Phnom Bakheng, Lord Shiv, King Yashovarman I (889-910)

Pre Rup, Lord Shiv, King Rajendravarman II (944-968)

Baphuon, Lord Shiv, King Suryavarman I (1010-1050)

Angkor Wat, Lord Vishnu, King Suryavarman II (1113-1150)

Bayon Temple, Lord Brahm or Buddhist?, King Jayavarman VII (1182-1218)

Pre Rup Temple dedicated to Lord Shiv, established in 962 CE by King Rajendravarman II (944-968), Angkor Period of Khmer Empire or Kambuja or Kambujades, Angkor Arch Park, Cambodia earlier known as Kampuchea derived from Kambuja

People of Angkor Wat

If the people of Thailand are nice, Cambodians are even nicer. You would request them to pose and they would do smilingly.

You love this ritual in SE Asia where the nice folks come dressed in their traditional best to their temples.

Two Days at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Related Posts on this Blog

Cambodia - Part I

A Portrait of the British

A Day in Tokyo

A Day in London

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Cambodia – More Indian than India

Trippingg Abroad

Siem Reap – The Temple Wonderland

Part I

Let’s do something different this time. Let this post be an Anthology of small posts that you wrote on the social media. While clearing up the desktop, you came upon this folder with all these photographs that you used with the small posts. And you say, why not use these photos instead of writing a post sometime in the future and again go trawling for suitable photos. The blog post will have a smattering of posts of your days across Cambodia and will give a nice feel of the wonderful people and country of Cambodia. The current endeavour is to have at least one post of each country that you visit these Wonder Days.

The Largest Temple - Angkor Wat in Cambodia

Indianization of Cambodia

We really do not know for sure how Cambodia got Indianized. David Chandler in his ‘History of Cambodia’ calls Indianization a centuries-long phenomenon when elements of Indian culture were absorbed or chosen by Cambodians in a process that lasted more than a thousand years. Nobody knows how the process transpired.

Entering the Temple Wonderland - Siem Reap

The process of culture change is complex. Why were the new elements adopted and were preferred to local ones? Was there a pick and choose of elements? The caste system, thankfully was not adopted wholesale but was limited to the court. Were the new culture elements adopted by the royals and elite or did they percolate down to the village level? Who were the Indians who went to Cambodia or was there an exchange of people?

In the beginning of common era, India was Buddhist – did both Buddhist and Hinduism elements made their way together and Hindu elements were chosen first? Why would some later kings choose Buddhism but later regimes would revert to Hinduism?

The Apsaras of the Bayon Temple - Siem Reap

What made a people adopt foreign elements? Cambodians are almost like Indians - costumes, jewellery, alphabet and customs were adopted and are similar. You rather wish Indians now need to learn from Cambodians of being kind, friendly and civil-sensible – a subject for another post.

Cambodia or Kambuja or Kambuja Des – More Indian than India

The Mind Games Begin

Angkor Wat is just a jumbo meal-sized appetizer. The mind twisties will be served now. A twenty-minute walk north from Angkor Wat brings you right in the middle of giant Samundra Manthan. This is the causeway and one of the five gates of the last and most enduring Khmer Capital of Jayavarman VII, the most prolific builder King. The earlier capital was called Yashodharpura.

The Gateway with the Faces - Tonle Om

Samudra Manthan on the Causeway - Tonle Om in Siem Reap Cambodia

The nine sq km capital is surrounded by walls and a moat. On this moat are built one of the most fantastic renderings of Sagar Manthan. Rows of Devs and Asurs are pulling on Vasuki. The Devs look serene and well, like Gods. The Asurs don’t seem to be in good mood and apparently are fuming. And the gate seems to be out of the world. Smiling faces on the towers look at you. Angkor Wat awed you with its grand scale. This bridge and gate seem to be leading you straight into a wondrous mythological portal. You can’t wait to enter.

Gods on one side and the Demons on the other side of the causeway 

Tonle Om – The South Gate of Angkor Thom (Great City), late 12th Century, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Indianized Cambodia; Indigenous Temple Construction

While the Cambodians wholeheartedly adopted Indian religions (Hinduism & Buddhism), alphabet (Sanskrit) and customs but when it came to the design and scale of temples, they were clearly unique and totally indigenous.

Ta Keo Temple - Siem Reap, Cambodia

They might have started with the Indian temple template in the early Pre-Angkor era during Funan and Chenla periods but by 9th century the Cambodians will come into their own when they will start erecting magnificent and awe-inspiring temples with designs that will blow your mind. They might not have mastered the art of sculpting images or it is totally possible they consciously avoided it and instead put their energies in the size of the temples and this totally exquisite bas-relief work ornamenting their walls, lintels and pediments.

Ta Keo will herald this phase when the entire temple was built of large sandstone blocks cut from the Phnom Kulen mountain range, 30 kms away. The temple would be built in the shape of an enormous pyramid symbolising Mount Meru, with enclosures with galleries and on the top five Prasats or Towers arranged in quincunx form. You are conserving your energy in this sapping heat and will just go around the base of the temple surrounded with dense trees.

Ta Keo (Hemagiri, Hemasringagiri or Tower of Crystal), dedicated to Lord Shiv, state temple of Jayavarman V (968-1001), son of Rajendravarman whose state temple was Pre Rup – probably unfinished, conservation with Chinese support, Angkor Archaeological Park, Cambodia

The Modern Indian Connection

Cambodia has seen more than 1500 years of construction of some majestic temples across the country. Most of these were found in ruin. Upon appeal by the Cambodian government, India was the first country to respond in 1980. Since then. looking at the several signages across the park you can see countries like France, Japan, Germany, USA and China and agencies like UNESCO and WMF too have joined the monumental conservation and restoration task.

India's ASI partnering with Cambodia government for conservation and restoration of Ta Phrom Temple - Siem Reap, Cambodia

You can see the progress at several sites while some sites are still simply mounds of ruins. The conservation work could continue forever since there is so much to rescue. India’s ASI started the conservation first at Angkor Wat from 1986-1993 during time of extreme political instability.

The restored Eastern Gallery at Ta Phrom

In 2002, ASI got another mandate to conserve Ta Phrom at eight assigned places. Some have been completed while you can see work progressing at some places. The difference here was that the work involves conservation of both natural and built heritage. FRI Dehradun too contributed in this multi-disciplinary work by treating the decaying and diseased trees. Yes the trees look much healthier than the structures they are strangling below! The now restored Hall of Dancers and Third Enclosure Gallery seem to be good piece of work by ASI. Maybe now they can apply their learning back home.

‘Tree Temple’ Ta Phrom, 12th Century, Jayavarman VII, Angkor Archaeological Park, Cambodia

The Killing Fields

On an average about 300 detainees were executed every day. Trucks filled with the unfortunate would arrive from S-21 and other locations. Sometimes they were not able to execute them all so there would be holdover prisoners awaiting their fate the next day. Entire families will be finished off including babies. There was a storage shed with killing tools and a chemical storage for DDT that would be thrown over the mass grave.

Hope such horrors are never repeated - Killing Fields in Cambodia

The Memorial at Choeung Ek

About ten kms from downtown, the city has expanded with highways and malls but fifty years ago the Killing Fields were actually among the far from idyllic rice fields, a part of the agrarian society being built by a hideous monster. You remember reading about this in the newspapers and watching this movie. About 1.2 million people were executed and buried here. You had to be here on your last day in this land of beautiful people.

Village of Choeung Ek, Killing Fields, Cambodia

That Soaring Khmer Zeitgeist – of Moving Mountains

Cambodians absorbed Indian culture as people from India – traders, sailors, immigrants and of course priests - would bring ideas and customs right from the Neolithic period to across the 1st, 5th and 11th centuries. Who were the people in Cambodia then – were they indigenous people and if not then of what ethnicity? What influenced or inspired them that they would adopt foreign customs, language and religion – the epics, the purans, and the whole paraphernalia that came with it. Mercifully, they probably rejected the caste system. But trust the Brahmins to do their thing with the kings and end up with the largest landholdings along with the royals. Well, the historians are still trying to figure this all out and have been bringing out books on how all this Indianization happened.

Thommanon Temple - Siem Reap, Cambodia

But you cannot find anything on this mammoth exercise of temple building. Sure, the Khmers would have received manuals and blueprints of temple building over the centuries. So why did they depart from the Indian architecture of small temples and go on to create their soaring temples? Were they trying to impress the Gods so they would move here from their original homes? The Khmers would literally cut up mountains, transport the stones and erect these huge mountain-like temples and sprawling complexes that will tire out a visitor simply walking through them.

Thommanon Temple- Angkor Archaeological Park - Siem Reap

It is apparent that the interpretation of the purans and the epics was quite different and literally monumental here. The Khmers did not incorporate sculpture as part of the temples. The images though uncommonly large will not carry the typical iconography and will find place either inside the sanctuary or at the gates and gopuras. All their skill in sculpting would go into creating these wonderful reliefs in galleries, ornamenting walls and pediments. How did they get this skill of weaving the most wonderful reliefs on stone? The awe-inspiring sculpted faces on the towers lift the Khmer imagination to dizzying heights.

So what brought this brilliance and motivation to construct such superstructures that have their equivalence in the Mayan and Egyptian civilizations.

Thommanon Temple – a temple that finally has the scale of Indian temples and a contemporary of Angkor Wat – was this temple built for the royals while the construction of Angkor Wat was going on? Dedicated to Lord Vishnu & Shiv, King Suryavarman II (1113-1150), Cambodia

Temple Run is No Walk in the Park

In Cambodia, temple run can be fatal. The tragic recent past of Cambodia is life threatening present. It is said Cambodia might have upto 10 million unexploded landmines / ordnance (UXO) in the country side. Cambodia today has the dubious distinction of having largest number of UXO. Civil wars, the murderous Pol Pot regime, neighbouring countries and superpowers are all to blame for this.

As you drive through the expansive Koh Ker grounds, the reality of living with the landmines hits hard when you see these red signs just a few metres away from the road, warning you of the lurking danger beneath the ground. It is said that some landmines were laid around the temple complexes to thwart looting. The challenge for the mine removing agencies is that no maps are available to help in the demining exercise which is a time-consuming and dangerous exercise here.

This country of smiling and friendly people has seen so much bloodshed that it is unbelievable how nice the people can be despite going through these horrific events. More of it in later posts.

Koh Ker or Lingpura, 10th Century, Preah Vihear Province, Cambodia

The Jewel in the Crown

The Cambodians love and take pride in their Temples and Kings so much that they have Angkor Wat on their flag; probably the only country to have a temple / religious structure on its flag - 64 countries have depictions of religious symbols.

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Vishnu and now Buddha - Buddha is one of nine avatar of Vishnu

There are scores of temple complexes in this province and neighbouring areas, but the first stop for every visitor is the Angkor Wat. You have not seen anything this grand and sprawling and like you will experience at every temple in Cambodia, the first visit is shock and awe and fluster and incredulity. You need to come back again couple of days later when some of it will slowly begin to make sense.

Angkor Wat – City of Temples (derived from Sanskrit – Nagara and Vata), or Vrah Visnulok, Yashodharapur, early 12th Century, commissioned by Khmer king Suryavarman II (1113-1150), originally dedicated to Vishnu and now a Buddhist temple, 402 acres, UNESCO site, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia

 

 The Tragic Kingdom

Cambodia has seen it all – from the triumphant highs of Khmer Empire to world’s worst genocide. Cambodia would unfortunately get pulled into the Vietnam war as Viet Cong and the Powers would use its territory to play out their war games in Indochina. Vast swathes will get carpet bombed. You are not sure if Khmer temples were victims too. As Saigon to the east will fall to Viet Cong, the darkest chapter in history of humankind will play out here in Cambodia.

Lest We Forget - S21 Genocide Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Homegrown radical Khmer Rouge (1975-79), led by Pol Pot will unleash the worst killing of his own people in pursuit of a purely agrarian society. Thinkers and intellectuals will be rounded up, brought to this high school, detained, tortured and then killed off. A total of about 3 million people will be killed by the time the brutal regime will be brought down by Vietnam in 1979. An entire generation of intellectuals and professionals will be lost. If not here, people will die working long hours in the fields.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum or S 21, Cambodia

As you enter the school premises, the street sounds quieten into this peaceful place belying the horror witnessed here as detainees would be tortured in these four three-storey buildings. Visitors walk numbed listening to the distressing audio commentary. You wonder if the birds still chirped here then or did they go away unable to bear the atrocities in the cells behind the barb wires?

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, formerly the Tuol Svay Prey High School that was turned into the infamous S-21, the Interrogation and Detention Centre, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The Vandalized Temple

In Cambodia, you don’t see many signs of pillaging. Most of the ruins are attributed to time and nature as vegetation moves in and reclaims even the built structures. What you see is subtle – a Buddha image carved into a ling or ling moved from the central shrine to one of the subsidiary shrines. The damage wreaked by the Chams or the Ayuthiyyans is not apparent or has been built over.

Tam Som is similar to Banteay Kdei but even more vibey. It has been literally reclaimed from the vegetation and therefore more in ruins. Also, the temple saw intentional destruction in the 15th-16th century. History is silent and you are not sure what happened in this time. Anyway by this time Angkor had weakened, the place depopulated and apparently there were no attempts to restore the damaged temples.

Ta Som Temple, Siem Reap Cambodia

Ta Som gives a glimpse on how WMF is trying to restore the temples here – still standing walls and passageways are supported by wooden props and a gopura has been freed from the tentacles of a Strangler Fig. WMF started the conservation here in 1998 and it is here the first batch of Cambodian staff was trained who would then move to more challenging sites.

Ta Som, Buddhist, end of 12th & beginning of 13th Century, built by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father Dharanindravarman II, Angkor Archaeological Park, Cambodia

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