From Ashok and his stups to visit of Fa-Hien, to kunds, temples & fort of Tomars and Gahadvals to Ghori conquest to Iltutmish and his Jami Masjid & Eidgah to Razia Sultan and Nizamuddin Auliya, his father & grandfather to Sufi shrines to Alauddin Alam Shah Sayyid’s retirement to Lodhis to Akbar’s chronicler Abdul Qadir to Akbar’s visit to Chhote Sarkar Dargah to Jahangir’s foster-brother Qutbuddin Koka who will kill Nur Jahan’s husband for Jahangir to Mumtaz Mahal’s sister to Aurangzeb’s governor to Shakeel Badayuni to Begum Abida Ahmed wife of President Fakhruddin Ali Ahmed – this is one fantastic voyage!

Badaun could be the big reason why the glorious capital of Kannauj got lost in the mists of Ganga river-banks. When Mahmud of Ghazni captured Kannauj in 1018, the city was described as: “city which raised its head to skies which in strength and structure might justly boast to have no equals.” Ghori would continue where Ghazni left. It would be Iltutmish who would end Kannauj’s vassalage and bring it under direct control of Delhi Sultanate appointing a governor of the Oudh. Kannauj, the Imperial capital of several dynasties over six hundred years lost its old glory and was soon forgotten - a victim of vicissitude of time. When Battutah visited, it had dwindled to a small town.

Badaun - Heart of Rohilkhand

Aibak continued the conquests by subjugating the Katehar district north-west of Kannauj leading to conquest of Badaun in 1196. Shamsuddin Iltutmish (1211-1236) was first granted the Iqta (jagir) and then made the first governor of Budaun. Badaun soon became the capital of Delhi Sultanate for four years (1210-1214) before reverting to Delhi. Iltutmish’s love affair with Badaun will continue and in 1223 he will build one of the largest mosques in India. The usual Sultanate theatrics and intrigues will continue to play out in Badaun for the next four hundred years as Badaun became the Muhammadan capital of Rohilkhand. Kannauj, in the meantime, has slipped into obscurity.

Your first introduction to Badaun was through these UP Roadways buses

Raja Babu Park with the Clock Tower in Bulandshahr, a town which was called Baran during Ghori's time. Now the Queen Victoria statue has been replaced with Mahatma Gandhi's

Ganga waters at Anupshahr

Today, just like any town in UP, Badaun is crowded, dusty and chaotically overbuilt. Badaun is little known except when it is in news for the wrong reasons. Though the city turns out to be quite interesting for an antiquarian with an exciting mix of sufi dargahs and pirs, Sultanate and Mughal buildings, birthplace of Iltutmish’s daughter Razia Sultana, Nizamuddin Auliya and his ancestors, Akbar’s critical chronicler Abdul Qadir Badayuni and Hindi cinema’s famous lyricist Shakeel Badayuni. Ashok is believed to have built a stup here just like he did in Harsh’s capital Kannauj. Later, Rashtrakutas clan with ties to Kannauj’s Rathors will rule when the city was called Vodamayuta. During the early times Badaun was the capital of Panchal.

Sagar Tal of Badaun

Sagar Tal Dargah of Nizamuddin Auliya's Father & Grandfather

In Kannauj, you had three hours to go through a history of two thousand years. Here you have about half a day before you retreat from Iltutmish’s temporary capital of Badaun to his permanent capital in Delhi where he rests in the Qutb complex. The first stop is next door to the hotel – The Sagartaal Dargah where Nizamuddin’s grandfather Sayid Ali Bukhari Badayuni and father Sayid Ahmed Bukhari Badayuni rest. The place is swarming with devotees and the scenes are reminiscent of Nizamuddin Dargah in Delhi.

Badaun - The Birthplace of Nizamuddin Auliya

Nizamuddin Auliya's grave lies in Nizamuddin Basti, New Delhi. His mother's and sister’s graves lie in Adchini village, New Delhi. His relatives' graves lie in Chanderi.

Here, on the banks of Sagar Tal lie the graves of his father and grandfather. It is still morning but the devotees are already pouring in. The scenes are similar to witnessed at Nizamuddin Dargah - hysterical women lining the sanctum outside, red rose petals and that feeling you feel of the saint patron of Central Delhi in the basti.

Sagar Tal Dargah of Nizamuddin’s Father and Grandfather. The present building is believed to be built by Rohilla ruler Hafiz Rahmat Khan in mid-18^th century

Outside, the Sagar Tal spreads out presenting a serene scene on this cool morning. It is always a surprise to see a surviving waterbody in this part of the country. It seems you have visited most places associated with Hazrat Nizamuddin and his family - father and grandfather here in Badayun, his mother and sister in Adchini village in Delhi, and the Nizamuddin family grave complex in Chanderi. You are not sure where his brother Jamaluddin is buried.

Badaun today seems to have been run over by devotees on ziyarat or pilgrimage to saints’ shrines on this mystic trail of dargahs and shrines. The most famous is the Bade Sarkar Sharif Dargah of Hazrat Sheikh Shahi. The other dargahs include Chote Sarkar Sharif Dargah of Hazrat Syed Vilayat Shahi that was visited by Akbar. The dargah has the Shamsi Idgah built by Iltutmish in the complex. There is another dargah associated with Nizamuddin Auliya - Nana Nani Dargah of his maternal grandparents.

From the tranquility of the lake, it is time to drive into the built-up old city to look for the sprawling Shamsi Jami Masjid built by Iltutmish.

Jami Masjid built by Iltutmish in 1223 in Badaun

Badaun - Birthplace of Razia Sultana

You step into the narrow lanes with lots of trepidation. There was news that the Jami Masjid has turned into a disputed site. You do not entirely disbelieve the story. Delhi Sultanate outposts were always built on earlier cities with grand temples and Jama Masjid usually built on the most majestic of the temples, according to British historians and archaeologists. Cunningham cites the locals who say the masjid was built on the site of temple named Harmandar and the images buried under the floor of the prayer hall.

This Jami Masjid is huge and rivals that of Delhi. Presently the doors are locked. The shopkeeper opposite the grand entrance still in its original sandstone form first makes sure you are just a crazy and innocent trespasser in this part of the city. The doors open only for namaaz. You don't push your luck. There is no ASI board outside. It is time to scoot.

Jami Masjid of Shamsi, built by her father Iltutmish, Badaun, UP

Lives of us history travellers are not getting easy. First it is the skirmishes with the ASI security guards who go berserk seeing your camera and now this. In these changing times it is becoming difficult to enter the old mosques which until few years ago were always open and you could walk around photographing without any interruptions. Now you are being looked upon suspiciously.

The street with the Jami Masjid is also called Shakeel Road. Just few metres to the north-east of mosque is the old whitewashed blue haveli of the noted Hindi Cinema lyricist Shakeel Badayun.

Badaun – The Birthplace of Shakeel Badayuni

ये ज़िंदगी के मेले

दुनिया में कम न होंगे

अफसोस हम न होंगे

ये ज़िंदगी के मेले

Few yards from the Jama Masjid, in the same gali, is a blue whitewashed haveli with a pretty arched gateway. On the door, the sign says ‘Geetkaar Shakeel Badayuni.’ Along with the Punjabis (Kapoor, Kapoor, Deol, Khanna and other assorted families) it is the UP waleys who have contributed most to the Hindi film industry. In Bombay, they touted their origins proudly – Majrooh Sultanpuri, Kaifi Azmi, Kamal Amrohi, Khumar Barabankvi and Shakeel Badayuni. When they change all the names, the places will be remembered in the names of these evergreen poets and film-makers.

An elderly person is tending to the khokha built into the wall of the haveli. Seeing you, he warms up and spontaneously starts commentary on the poet and announces himself to be the poet’s Mama. The neighbour chimes in – he is hard of hearing. Do you want to see his letters? Yes please! He goes in and brings in laminated letters on Shakeel Badayuni’s letterhead. This is actually lovely. You want to record this exchange on video. The neighbour cuts in – he is a fake. He is not related to Shakeel. You actually don’t care. Two women emerge out from the haveli. He is an encroacher. This is our property. We are the ones who are the songwriter’s relatives. He spins false stories and takes money from the unsuspecting visitors. The letters look quite authentic.

You wanted to come see the haveli. You got to see his letters and his song book too. God Bless the Mamas of this world! Ghar Ghar ki Kahani in these Melas of the Life.

Haveli of Shakeel Badayuni - song writer of films like Mughal-e-Azam, Sahib Bibi aur Ghulam, Chaudhvin ka Chand in Badayun, UP

Shakeel Badayuni's Haveli in Badaun, UP

Shakeel Badayuni's letters and Memorabilia

Now you will have to move through the congested lanes from west to east for the next stop. On the way, you are surprised to see the Clock Tower. In front is the bust of Badaun’s modern day hero, Shakeel Badayuni, looking dapper in a suit.

Shakeel Badayuni bust in front of Clock Tower, Budaun

Time Check in Badaun

Since Badaun too had British presence so what is a good old blighty town without a clock tower. The original clock has been replaced with Made in India Ajanta clock that is running three hours late. Somebody needs to go up there and change the battery.

Clock Tower, Badaun, UP

Google maps usually get scrambled up on the narrow streets. The final stretch of the street is too narrow for the car. You will walk to the Ikhlas Khan Tomb. Ikhlas Khan (died 1661) was Governor of Bengal during Aurangzeb’s reign. And just like any monument with the faintest similarity, this rauza is also called Black Taj Mahal but here it was raised by wife in his memory.

Ikhlas Khan Tomb in Budaun

As you turn, the city opens up. You can finally breathe a little easier. You had a feeling there will be balconies of houses hanging over the dome. The tomb is solid and stout. ASI has recently given it a facelift of plaster; a not too pleasant job. A dome rests on the top with four minarets on the corners with chhatris. The outside boundary walls too have chhatris on the four corners. On the west is the qibla wall with a pierced mihrab.

A Flower for Alauddin

Ikhlas Khan Tomb also called Black Taj Mahal in memory of the Bengal Governor raised by his wife

Inside, the caretaker is cleaning the five graves and putting fresh flowers. Here, they both rest along with their son. The wife of Ikhlas Khan was a distant relative of Shahjahan. The next stop will bring you to a closer relative of Shahjahan. All these small old towns always seem to have connections across the ages so that they can boast by dropping names from Harsh to Rashtrakutas to Tomars to Delhi Sultanate and to the Mughals.

You will head out to the eastern part of the city to visit the ancient times. This is Surya Kund. You are not sure about the lineage or the significance but some work is going on its beautification as indicated by a stone mentioning deriving inspiration from the Governor and CM. You do a circuit of the large tank that has some recently installed stone steps and concrete gazebos in the name of development. The immediate area around the kund is shaded by some lovely looking trees.

Among these trees are a cluster of ruined brick tombs, some inaccessible in the wild vegetation. On the western bank a modern stone proclaims this to be Samrat Ashok Buddh Tourist Spot. The stone says this spot was mentioned by Fa-Hien, predecessor of Hwen Tsang, when he visited Badaun in 415AD. So, is this the spot, where Ashok built the stup and monastaries when Badaun was still known as Budh or Budhmau? And where Mahipal built Chaurasi Buddhist Matts?

The Suryakund of Tomars (?) in Badaun

The ruined Chattris / Shrines / Matts at Surya Kund in Badaun

When not much survives it is time to conjecture. Was this kund a contemporary of Tomars’ Suraj Kund in Faridabad and did Delhi Tomars also build this Suryakund? Mahipal, according to Cunningham also built the Harmandar which now lies broken below the Jama Masjid. The ruined tombs or temples or matts could be Sati temples. So, was this a Sati Kund? Were these sati temples; a few of the surviving eighty-four Buddhist matts? For a piece of Gone History you can only pose more questions and wonder and see if you can create a logical thread.

Gurukul Mahavidyalaya in Badaun

Abutting the Surya Kund complex is an old Gurukul Mahavidyalaya established in 1903 by Swami Darshnanand Saraswati. Stepping through the gates is like stepping back into time. Children sit on the floor as they go through their Sanskrit vedic curriculum. Eventually they will be awarded degrees of Shastri and Acharya. Badaun is turning into a wonderful time machine.

The nostalgia inducing cute Sheikhupur Railway Station

You are in Sheikhupur, few kms away from the city where you ask for directions. A dirt track submerged in garbage leads you through the fields into a tree grove. You have no idea what to expect. And then the crumbling brick tomb appears through the trees. Once upon a time, the monument would have been quite pretty. The setting though is still pretty. The breeze carries the tinkling of buffaloes’ bells through the leaves, birds tweet, the meandering river Sot, a tributary of Ganga, just beyond tiptoes silently.

Parwar Khanum Tomb in Badaun

The graves of Parwar Khanum and Sheikh Ibrahim

This is actually beautiful as you make your way through the scrub and freshly dug graves. You climb the platform and enter the spacious central hall where two graves lie. Buntings strung across the central chamber ripple in the breeze – it almost feels like footsteps approaching you. For a moment you feel a presence. A wave of goosebumps run through you. This is weird - you usually don’t feel this in tombs. You shake off the feeling and step outside into the broken corridors.

A Tale of Two Sisters

Mumtaz Mahal lies ensconced in a beautiful white tomb on the banks of Yamuna, built by her loving emperor husband as crowds pour in from around the world to be part of this eternal love story set in pietra dura inlaid marble.

Less than 200 kms to the north-east, outside a small ancient city once called Panchala and later an outpost of Rohilkhand, in an obscure quiet spot on the banks of a small Ganga tributary lies the broken brick tomb of her sister Parwar Khanum, unknown and unloved.

Parwar Khanum Rauza, Sheikhupur, Budaun, UP

(Bonus Trivia - Parwar Khanum was married to Nawab Shekh Ibrahim, son of Kutbuddin Khan Chisti aka Shekh Khubu Koka. Kutb was the foster-brother of Jahangir and Subahdar of Bengal. Jahangir sent orders to Kutb to bring Sher Afkan, Tuyuldar of Bardwan and husband of Mihrunnisa aka Nur Jahan, to court. A fight ensued and both Sher Afkan and Kutb were killed. Did Jahangir give order to kill Sher Afkan so that he could marry Nur Jahan? History is amazing)

A little distance away you arrive at the Makhduman-i-Jahan Tomb built by her son Alauddin Alam Shah. Alauddin, a resident of Badaun, probably took over the position of Sayyid ruler hesitatingly on his father Mohammed Shah’s insistence. Few years later, he abdicated his throne to Bahlol Lodhi, the founder of Lodhi dynasty and retired to Badaun and lived here peacefully among the sufi saint and shrines.

The brick Makhduman Jahan Tomb in Badayun

To Mom with Love

Blue Glazed Tiles and Terracotta Reliefs - Makhduma-i-Jahan Tomb Badaun

His mother would have followed him and here he built for her this pretty brick tomb with terracotta reliefs that you are seeing for the first time in this part of the country. This brick tomb would have been an inspiration for the Parwar Khanum’s tomb which is more elaborate. Inside, you can see three graves through the grill. Is it Alauddin’s resting place too? While the father rests in the octagonal tomb in Delhi’s tony Lodhi Gardens, his successor son and his mother rests in this brick tomb. Yes, you just need to pick up the cards life deals you.

As you suspected, Budaun turns out to be more interesting than Kannauj. Ghori would take over both the cities and from here the story trajectories of the cities will diverge. While Kannauj will sink into obscurity, Badaun is turned into a garrison outpost in Rohilkhand to fuel Ghori’s ambition to take over the Doab. Did Badayun make more strategic sense or was there a spiritual connection to the city of saints and shrines or did Iltutmish influence the choice? In this theatre of action, interesting characters will play their part and as a historian it will be an academic joy of linking these people and episodes as they intersect over the ages across the sultanate and empire.

And quietly flows the waters of Sot river behind Parwar Khanum Makbara, Budaun

Ganga flows at Narora

It is late afternoon and it is time to say goodbye. Badaun has been a totally unexpected roller coaster ride through history. It is amazing how these unassuming towns have so much to tell us that helps connect strands of our astonishing history giving us fleeting glimpses into the past and a reason for wonderment. These towns have so many stories to share – take time out and go listen.

Since you got this far - Some More Bonus!

The Cunningham’s Tombs

Cunningham in his Report lists Eight Tombs titles A to H. He says the tombs are square and mostly built of bricks. Locally they are called ‘Chauki’ or four-sided buildings:

Tomb A – This is locally called Chimney Rauza – encroached in the old city

Tomb B - Status Unknown

Tomb C – Cunningham calls this the tomb of Alauddin

Tomb D – called Gumbad-i-Rapar is set in fields away from the road which you chanced upon north of Chhotey Sarkar Dargah

The Rapar Gumbad - Cunningham Tomb D in Badaun

Tomb E - Status Unknown

Tomb F - Status Unknown

Tomb G - Makhduman-i-Jahan Tomb

Tomb H – you are sure there is nothing around Tomb G

References:

Inspiration to visit Badaun partly came from my friend Mohammad Ahsan Sir’s Badaun Facebook posts from a time when he was more interested in monuments than flowers and dragonflies!

Report of Tours in the Gangetic Provinces From Badaon to Bihar by Alexander Cunningham Vol XI

Budaun, A Gazetteer Volume XV, District Gazetteers of the United Provinces of Agra and Oudh, 1907

https://www.firstpost.com/opinion/badaun-forgotten-capital-of-a-sultanate-city-of-creativity-is-lacklustre-today-13752040.html

Mumtaz Mahal sister’s tomb – an article by friend Arjun - https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/lucknow/forgotten-sister-of-taj-lies-in-a-shambles/articleshow/101081371.cms

PhD Thesis on Medieval Badayun - https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/144525327.pdf

Makbara of Parwar Khanum - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4GhXvnPTpI

https://historyunravelled.com/warriors/alauddin-alam-shah--the-last-sayyid-ruler

This guy was one interesting character - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutubuddin_Koka

Badaun Tourist Spots - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFV8ef57pr0

Badaun Tourism - https://plannedways.com/places-to-visit-in-budaun/

Monuments of Badaun - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1xy6NaUXt0

Dargahs of Badaun - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YGNZpo_jFM